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Sanderson ff427 starter issues

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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:05 PM
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Sanderson ff427 starter issues

So just as some of you have installed, I have the ff427 sandersons on my 360 currently. My new reman starter which was replaced a few months ago just went out. The headers don't go down the side of the starter, but do run very close to the back of the stock starter making it impossible to remove it without first removing the header. Is the heat from those things on the back of the starter enough to make it go out? It worked for several months then what started happening a day ago is it started grinding, but still started the truck. Then now it seems like it's just spinning and won't even engage. I know my friend has had bad luck with oreilly starters before, and eventually went to a competitor for starters, but my question is, do you all think it was the heat or just a crappy starter? Have any of you who run these headers had an issue with the stock style starter? Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:29 PM
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DLW-70-F100
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Possibly sounds like the teeth of the starter were ground off since it still works, just doesn't engage. When I pulled my somewhat new reman starter off of mine, the very front part of the starter gear teeth were eaten off a bit. I checked the flex plate and it looked good so maybe these cheap starter gears are an issue. So, maybe it's not a heat issue in this case and I know HIO Silver is using a stock style starter with his FF427 headers. Maybe he will chime in with his experience. Personally I thought it was kind of close.


When I installed my FF427 headers a couple weeks ago, I just went a head and used a powermaster mini-starter with infinite clocking, plenty of clearance for me..
 
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:44 PM
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I seriously don't think it"s a header heat issue. You've got a crappy starter issue.

I have removed and replaced the oem starter with no clearance issues. Reconsider and review your technique.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:53 PM
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Alright, thanks. I appreciate your replies. I will for sure try to take it out again without removing the header. I don't want to take it off if I don't have to.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 08:54 AM
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I don't bother with rebuilt starters anymore...Napa has brand new ones with a lifetime warranty. I think I paid around $100 for the last one and I haven't ever replaced it. Just my $.02
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:06 AM
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Those reman from the major 3 are all rebuilt in Mexico. They come with a lifetime replacement for a reason. Last time mine gave me trouble, I took it to a guy who still rebuilds starters and alt (9 yrs ago). If it quits spinning tomorrow I will be going to Napa.......I didn't know they had the new ones and I live 3 hours from the guy that rebuilds them now.....
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:12 AM
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Yeah the reason I use oreilly is because I work there and get a discount. But I don't believe they offer a new one for the f100
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Also, do you run a lot of timing so much that it drags the starter when it gets warm? Very hard on those oem types. You can combat that by running a cut off switch from hot wire off distributor to a toggle switch inside the cab. Also works well as a redneck anti theft device if you conceal the location.......
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:17 AM
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Even with a discount you will still end up under the truck. I looked up a '69 F100 with a 360 and the new starter is only $65.

NAPA AUTO PARTS
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 02:01 PM
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Yeah Napa didn't have one in stock. I went with the oreilly reman again. I don't think that it was rebuilt so much. A tooth broke on the gear and the housing broke...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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WOW! Nice carnage picture...hope you get less trouble out of the next one.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by yetiman38237
Also, do you run a lot of timing so much that it drags the starter when it gets warm? Very hard on those oem types. You can combat that by running a cut off switch from hot wire off distributor to a toggle switch inside the cab. Also works well as a redneck anti theft device if you conceal the location.......
I don't understand how a toggle switch in the cab combats hard hot starting.
The ignition switch bypasses the pink wire and puts a full 12v to the coil on starting.
Can you explain?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog
WOW! Nice carnage picture...hope you get less trouble out of the next one.
Thanks, me too!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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orich
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Originally Posted by chiefsfootball
So just as some of you have installed, I have the ff427 sandersons on my 360 currently. My new reman starter which was replaced a few months ago just went out. The headers don't go down the side of the starter, but do run very close to the back of the stock starter making it impossible to remove it without first removing the header. Is the heat from those things on the back of the starter enough to make it go out? It worked for several months then what started happening a day ago is it started grinding, but still started the truck. Then now it seems like it's just spinning and won't even engage. I know my friend has had bad luck with oreilly starters before, and eventually went to a competitor for starters, but my question is, do you all think it was the heat or just a crappy starter? Have any of you who run these headers had an issue with the stock style starter? Thanks.
Hmm, I am also running f427 Sandersons headers and with having may be a 1/8" at most could not remove the oem starter either but may be HIO could do a video of a how to remove the starter.

I am an old fart but never to old to learn a new trick.

My oem starter got a little slow on warm summer days after about a 25 minutes of restarting. This slow starter condition was happening to many time.
I'd get that odd feeling in my gut that like wow. I going to get stuck some day. So when the nv4500 install I drop the header loose got the oem starter out. Then replaced it with a mini starter. Comes out easy now.

Orich
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 05:01 AM
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That mini starter looks like the way to go. Where did you get that one?
 
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