I'm consolidating the tools I carry with me to what I use. I'm in the process of trashing the plastic tool boxes for a smaller tool "roll". I've put my sockets on some all thread with both 1/4" and 3/8" metric. I have my 7,8,9,10,11,13 & 15mm.

I can't remember using a 12 or 14mm when pulling valve covers, IC pipes, injectors etc...

Any special sizes I'm missing?

 

Liking the idea of putting the sockets on all thread, nice packaging.

Make sure the 8mm is a 12 point. 3/8 swivel socket. Craftsman 1 and 1/8 on 1/2 inch drive. Folding shovel, axe, TP, Jim Beam, a few Kruggerands, machete.

 

Sticking with the tools only and avoiding the bug-out bag:

You mention IC tubes, but not slide pins. 14mm is involved with the slide pins (if my brain hasn't gone completely sideways), and 18mm for... I want to say the calipers. Wasn't the bleed valve a 12mm - or was that a 10mm? While I am the VC-pop king, I don't limit my tools to that one task. A stuck slide pin on the road can shut you down quicker than a loose injector. I have an inexpensive 1/2" socket drive, universal, short extension, and 1 1/8" very deep socket for a few things. Engine heater and IPR use the socket - I can't remember what else. The serpentine belt needs a 1/2" drive to release the tension.

13mm and 10mm flex sockets get used almost every single time I pop the hood for the purpose of wrenching. I see you have a lot of socket drive extensions - excellent call. Put a 13mm flex on the end of those extensions and the only VC bolts you can't pop are the deep bolts and the firewall bolts. For those, I use the deep 13mm and universal joint with the lengthy extensions. 10mm flex socket - I can't get over how much easier this made pulling the 42-pin connector and the PCM. I use long extensions, the 10mm flex socket, and a flashlight - and I can fully loosen the PCM bolt without putting my arms into the engine. I wrench it loose from above the fuse housing and brake fluid reservoir.

Where is the stubby Phillips to remove the CCV doghouse? Little bungee to hold cables/hoses out of the way?

 

I have removed all the valve cover bolts with a short swivel head 3/8" ratchet, deep 13mm socket, and a 13mm combination wrench. Yes, other tools may be needed to clear the path. But, I didn't use any swivels or extensions on the VC bolts. I never remove the CCV dog house. Only time it was off was when I reversed it to replumb the hoses for a CCV catch can. I also took it apart and cleaned the breather element inside at that time.

 

One can leave the CCV doghouse on there and use a ratcheting 13mm combination to remove the two VC bolts behind it, but I'm a battery-powered impact wrench guy. Doghouse out of the way makes those two bolts zip in and out right quick. It's a preference thing... but removal offers an opportunity to inspect the O-rings and clean the "steel wool" in there.

 

Sometimes it's just easier to take another part out of the way than it is to fight around it. I used to work commission at a small automotive shop, now I'm hourly working for a large company. Twisting wrenches for a few decades has taught me how to look for short cuts in getting the job done. It's all about what you feel is the best route without creating more unnecessary work. Experience is your best teacher.

 

Thanks for the comments, but aside from a 12pt 8mm and a 13mm swivel, any other basic sockets that are missing?

I do have a 13/16" 1/2" drive for the lug nuts, break calipers and front wheel bearings.

Just working on the basics.

 

Maybe a 2 piece or single 1.5 ft or so bar that could be used as a breaker bar when needed. Just a bit of leverage can go a long way when dealing with older or high torque bolts.

 

I find a wobble extension or two to be useful in locations where a universal or "flex" is too sloppy or awkward to get in there.

 

Yea... a short wobble can be used alone, or added to other extensions. That was my "tweak" to the kit this year.

 

Also how about a short ladder so you can reach the engine compartment. 1-2 step.

 

Further to the dog house, best to let that dog lie. The o rings swell and are a PITA to reinstall unless you have new ones handy.

 

Well, here it is. I did a short video walking through my kit. I've been carrying the kit for about 3 years and have consistently refined it.

 

or bashing the ever loving tar outta something to let off a bit of steam.....

 

Great job on the kit! I know how much work it is to put those together.

I didn't see the big fuses - like the 30-amp that blows from the fuel bowl heater.