Official NCFTE Works Thread
#2507
#2508
Well I already finished my oil change, and the new one I ordered off ebay came in yesterday. But I'd love to see a pic of a professional one, just to know what I'm missing. And so that I might borrow it next time!
#2510
#2511
Hope all had a nice thanks giving.
Last weekend I pulled the tail housing to replace the speedo gear on the out put shaft, it was stripped.
I installed the new out put gear and cable gear and that went together good.
When working on this from under the truck last week I could see the shifter plate or tower as it is called was leaking oil down the sides of the transmission.
Had to pull the floor cover and tower, only 2 of the 6 or so bolts were tights and when off I found no gasket and only a little of RTV and why it leaked.
Once off I found one of the fork pads missing on the reverse fork.
Found on line a set of 5, 4 for the 1-2 / 3-4 forks and 1 for the reverse fork.
I replaced all the pads and installed the tower & shift lever and before starting the motor went to run it thru the gears to make sure all was good.
Well put it in first (not granny) and the shifter got a whole lot of play - WTH!
Starting it, it is stuck in reverse that I never even tried it in.
I got lucky and was able to pull the cover and shift lever using a long screw driver to line the shift rails back up and drop the lever back in and all was good.
Just to make sure I took it for a test drive with out the cover, cant get the shift lever undone with it in place, and it shifts thru the gears.
Something is still not right because it is hard to find the gears, like the gates are too small or something but the lever does not feel like it has a lot of play and the forks, gate on the rails and lever all look good so at a lost what it could be?
It shifted the same before this work and at first thought being low on oil, I changed it, but that was not it as I filled it with almost 4 qt of 75w-90 oil.
I will use it the way it is and if it blows up I have the SROD from the parts truck I can throw in till I find something like a ZF5 for a small block and the pedal assy. / master to go with it.
Dave ----
Last weekend I pulled the tail housing to replace the speedo gear on the out put shaft, it was stripped.
I installed the new out put gear and cable gear and that went together good.
When working on this from under the truck last week I could see the shifter plate or tower as it is called was leaking oil down the sides of the transmission.
Had to pull the floor cover and tower, only 2 of the 6 or so bolts were tights and when off I found no gasket and only a little of RTV and why it leaked.
Once off I found one of the fork pads missing on the reverse fork.
Found on line a set of 5, 4 for the 1-2 / 3-4 forks and 1 for the reverse fork.
I replaced all the pads and installed the tower & shift lever and before starting the motor went to run it thru the gears to make sure all was good.
Well put it in first (not granny) and the shifter got a whole lot of play - WTH!
Starting it, it is stuck in reverse that I never even tried it in.
I got lucky and was able to pull the cover and shift lever using a long screw driver to line the shift rails back up and drop the lever back in and all was good.
Just to make sure I took it for a test drive with out the cover, cant get the shift lever undone with it in place, and it shifts thru the gears.
Something is still not right because it is hard to find the gears, like the gates are too small or something but the lever does not feel like it has a lot of play and the forks, gate on the rails and lever all look good so at a lost what it could be?
It shifted the same before this work and at first thought being low on oil, I changed it, but that was not it as I filled it with almost 4 qt of 75w-90 oil.
I will use it the way it is and if it blows up I have the SROD from the parts truck I can throw in till I find something like a ZF5 for a small block and the pedal assy. / master to go with it.
Dave ----
#2512
I took the truck to work yesterday even up on the high way because at 2am no traffic and did good between 65 to 75 MPH but till get the steering from darting on high way with traffic.
Think the T18 needs a rebuild, if I double clutch it does up shift a little better but no matter what I do down shifting from 4th to 3rd it grinds , bad syncros is my guess?
I don't know if I want to rebuild the T18 or look for a small block 4x2 ZF5 and the pedal assy. to install in the truck as the ZF would have over drive.
The motor also pings a lot under light load, think to much vacuum advance? I have been looking into an adjustable can for the dist. and it may have one from the factory and later will see if so.
If not I will have to figure a way to limit how much vacuum advance it gives.
On the steering the wife gave the OK for a new box so ordered a Blue Top box before she changes her mind.
I hope that will fix the darting left & right as everything is new in the front suspension and the shop said it is within spec, they only had to adjust the toe a little and that did help some.
Dave ----
Think the T18 needs a rebuild, if I double clutch it does up shift a little better but no matter what I do down shifting from 4th to 3rd it grinds , bad syncros is my guess?
I don't know if I want to rebuild the T18 or look for a small block 4x2 ZF5 and the pedal assy. to install in the truck as the ZF would have over drive.
The motor also pings a lot under light load, think to much vacuum advance? I have been looking into an adjustable can for the dist. and it may have one from the factory and later will see if so.
If not I will have to figure a way to limit how much vacuum advance it gives.
On the steering the wife gave the OK for a new box so ordered a Blue Top box before she changes her mind.
I hope that will fix the darting left & right as everything is new in the front suspension and the shop said it is within spec, they only had to adjust the toe a little and that did help some.
Dave ----
#2513
Dave, if CRS hasn't set in..... some of those vacuum advances have an adjustment located in the opening where the vac. hose goes on . This changes the spring pressure. Small screwdriver or hex slot. Some advance units could be taken apart and the spring pressure changed by adding or removing washers.
#2514
Dave, if CRS hasn't set in..... some of those vacuum advances have an adjustment located in the opening where the vac. hose goes on . This changes the spring pressure. Small screwdriver or hex slot. Some advance units could be taken apart and the spring pressure changed by adding or removing washers.
After the "to do" list I will see if mine is adjustable from the factory. What has been said they found the 81 & 83 are adjustable and they think the 82 also but not confirmed.
As for taking it apart to add washers I don't see an easy way it comes apart?
To fight to get it apart is way too much work for me and I would just leave the hose off to stop the pinging.
Some one pointed out on ways to limit the amount if it is not adjustable so that is an option also.
We are also looking into what options to get an adjustable one if mine is not.
It looks like the Motorcraft ones might be adjustable but any of the Standard products replacements were not from what I found on line.
We also think this pinging is from not running the EGR system but it is to far gone to get it working again.
Thanks
Dave ----
#2515
George, CRS has not set in just yet
Mine can be adjusted, I was told as a start 2 turns counter clock wise so that is what I did.
It is raining and don't want to take the truck out in it just yet but when I do I will take the 1/8" Allen wrench to adjust more if needed.
Because I left the truck out last night and it rained before I could get it in the garage when drying it off I found I am no good at installing windshields.
Yep I have a leak hope once dry I can stuff more sealer in there.
Also checking the oil level the stick had milk shake on it
Took 3 or 4 tries before I could get a level, down 1/2 qt, and it looked clear.
I have a little shake under the fill cap only, rockers & head look clean.
I think it is because I don't drive the truck enough to boil the condensation out.
By the factory gauge it reads low but hoses are hot to the touch.
I also need to check the PVC system. It should be working but need to make sure.
Dave ----
Mine can be adjusted, I was told as a start 2 turns counter clock wise so that is what I did.
It is raining and don't want to take the truck out in it just yet but when I do I will take the 1/8" Allen wrench to adjust more if needed.
Because I left the truck out last night and it rained before I could get it in the garage when drying it off I found I am no good at installing windshields.
Yep I have a leak hope once dry I can stuff more sealer in there.
Also checking the oil level the stick had milk shake on it
Took 3 or 4 tries before I could get a level, down 1/2 qt, and it looked clear.
I have a little shake under the fill cap only, rockers & head look clean.
I think it is because I don't drive the truck enough to boil the condensation out.
By the factory gauge it reads low but hoses are hot to the touch.
I also need to check the PVC system. It should be working but need to make sure.
Dave ----
#2516
#2517
George, CRS has not set in just yet
Mine can be adjusted, I was told as a start 2 turns counter clock wise so that is what I did.
It is raining and don't want to take the truck out in it just yet but when I do I will take the 1/8" Allen wrench to adjust more if needed.
Because I left the truck out last night and it rained before I could get it in the garage when drying it off I found I am no good at installing windshields.
Yep I have a leak hope once dry I can stuff more sealer in there.
Also checking the oil level the stick had milk shake on it
Took 3 or 4 tries before I could get a level, down 1/2 qt, and it looked clear.
I have a little shake under the fill cap only, rockers & head look clean.
I think it is because I don't drive the truck enough to boil the condensation out.
By the factory gauge it reads low but hoses are hot to the touch.
I also need to check the PVC system. It should be working but need to make sure.
Dave ----
Mine can be adjusted, I was told as a start 2 turns counter clock wise so that is what I did.
It is raining and don't want to take the truck out in it just yet but when I do I will take the 1/8" Allen wrench to adjust more if needed.
Because I left the truck out last night and it rained before I could get it in the garage when drying it off I found I am no good at installing windshields.
Yep I have a leak hope once dry I can stuff more sealer in there.
Also checking the oil level the stick had milk shake on it
Took 3 or 4 tries before I could get a level, down 1/2 qt, and it looked clear.
I have a little shake under the fill cap only, rockers & head look clean.
I think it is because I don't drive the truck enough to boil the condensation out.
By the factory gauge it reads low but hoses are hot to the touch.
I also need to check the PVC system. It should be working but need to make sure.
Dave ----
#2518
#2519
#2520
Got the starter rebuilt today. Taking it apart was easy. Putting it back together was a pita. Lol
all apart...
it was barely turning before i took it apart and made such a racket...
cleaned up the commutator or however its spelled... i like to call it the heavy part with all the big wires in it...
old bearing and seal... the smaller round disk is a shim..
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f0&oe=5E7148D7
because i didnt take a pic of my mushed one heres a screen shot from a how to video of the washer i replaced...
a shot of a positive post for yall... lol... was after i got it back together...
ready for the testing...
the video to show it spins again. It turns slower than it should... but thats because of the weak old battery i connected it to to test. when i tried bench testing it before taking it apart it made such a racket and turned really slowly... screeched like heck...
all apart...
it was barely turning before i took it apart and made such a racket...
cleaned up the commutator or however its spelled... i like to call it the heavy part with all the big wires in it...
old bearing and seal... the smaller round disk is a shim..
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f0&oe=5E7148D7
because i didnt take a pic of my mushed one heres a screen shot from a how to video of the washer i replaced...
a shot of a positive post for yall... lol... was after i got it back together...
ready for the testing...
the video to show it spins again. It turns slower than it should... but thats because of the weak old battery i connected it to to test. when i tried bench testing it before taking it apart it made such a racket and turned really slowly... screeched like heck...