engine/tranny woes
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engine/tranny woes
New guy here looking for a little help.
I have a 1970 f100 st6, 3 speed on the column.
Transmission has failed and now my troubles begin.
Vin has a "C" for transmission
F10 tells me it's a 240cid
Ford dealer told me the truck should have a c4 tranny.(I believe c4's were automatic)
The tag on the tranny says
Rat-H2. When I look up Rat H2 here it tells me it came with the 300cid and not the 240.
A transmission guy has told me he thinks someone pulled the original motor and tranny and put a 300 in its place.
How do I find out what the engine actually is? Where's the vin number located on the block so I can look it up?
I appreciate any help I can get
Thanks
I have a 1970 f100 st6, 3 speed on the column.
Transmission has failed and now my troubles begin.
Vin has a "C" for transmission
F10 tells me it's a 240cid
Ford dealer told me the truck should have a c4 tranny.(I believe c4's were automatic)
The tag on the tranny says
Rat-H2. When I look up Rat H2 here it tells me it came with the 300cid and not the 240.
A transmission guy has told me he thinks someone pulled the original motor and tranny and put a 300 in its place.
How do I find out what the engine actually is? Where's the vin number located on the block so I can look it up?
I appreciate any help I can get
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
There is no VIN on the block. Ford with very few exceptions like the K-Code Mustangs didn't stamp VINs on blocks... hence, the term 'numbers matching' cannot be applied to Fords. The closest we get is "period correct". Meaning, date code stamps are within 60 days before and up to seven days after the scheduled build date.
Yes, the C-4 is an auto trans.
With that said, be patient and one of the 240/300 ghurus like UltraRanger will chime in to assist.
Yes, the C-4 is an auto trans.
With that said, be patient and one of the 240/300 ghurus like UltraRanger will chime in to assist.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I have a 240 in my '69 F100. I know some things about them but, I wouldn't say I'm a 240/300 expert.
IF your warranty plate is correct and stock to your truck (someone hasn't swapped out the drivers side door), your transmission code of "C" means it came with a manual 3-spd transmission (Top-Loader 3.03").
If your truck had come with an automatic (C-4 like mine ), the transmission code would be a "G". --"G" would have also applied to a C-6 transmission behind an FE engine, but the visual difference between an inline 6 and an FE would be obvious to know which transmission the G was referencing.
1970 warranty plate decode information here.
Decoding Your 1970 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
IF your warranty plate is correct and stock to your truck (someone hasn't swapped out the drivers side door), your transmission code of "C" means it came with a manual 3-spd transmission (Top-Loader 3.03").
If your truck had come with an automatic (C-4 like mine ), the transmission code would be a "G". --"G" would have also applied to a C-6 transmission behind an FE engine, but the visual difference between an inline 6 and an FE would be obvious to know which transmission the G was referencing.
1970 warranty plate decode information here.
Decoding Your 1970 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
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New User
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I have a 240 in my '69 F100. I know some things about them but, I wouldn't say I'm a 240/300 expert.
IF your warranty plate is correct and stock to your truck (someone hasn't swapped out the drivers side door), your transmission code of "C" means it came with a manual 3-spd transmission (Top-Loader 3.03").
If your truck had come with an automatic (C-4 like mine ), the transmission code would be a "G". --"G" would have also applied to a C-6 transmission behind an FE engine, but the visual difference between an inline 6 and an FE would be obvious to know which transmission the G was referencing.
1970 warranty plate decode information here.
Decoding Your 1970 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
IF your warranty plate is correct and stock to your truck (someone hasn't swapped out the drivers side door), your transmission code of "C" means it came with a manual 3-spd transmission (Top-Loader 3.03").
If your truck had come with an automatic (C-4 like mine ), the transmission code would be a "G". --"G" would have also applied to a C-6 transmission behind an FE engine, but the visual difference between an inline 6 and an FE would be obvious to know which transmission the G was referencing.
1970 warranty plate decode information here.
Decoding Your 1970 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
Again I thank you for taking the time
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
There should be an engine tag located near the coil if not on the same bracket. It will have the displacement (240/300) and other info. Plenty of decoders out there for engine tags.
The Ford 3spd is a very simple tranny to rebuild. The kit is only $150 or so. The only hard part is the two bearings that need to be pressed on or you could use the hot plate trick. Just don't get them too hot. As long as the case isn't wallowed out it's an afternoon.
The Ford 3spd is a very simple tranny to rebuild. The kit is only $150 or so. The only hard part is the two bearings that need to be pressed on or you could use the hot plate trick. Just don't get them too hot. As long as the case isn't wallowed out it's an afternoon.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Thank you. I think what through me was looking up the tranny. I found only the 300 came with a Rat-H tranny. But from what you gentlemen have said all I need to find is a 3 speed Manuel transmission from a 1968-1972 240cid and it will work.
Again I thank you for taking the time
Again I thank you for taking the time
Is your transmission physically broken that it couldn't just be rebuilt? Otherwise, a wrecking yard donor transmission will be a gamble. It might work or, it might be worse than what you currently have --depending on what's wrong with your current transmission.
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New User
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Glad to help.
Is your transmission physically broken that it couldn't just be rebuilt? Otherwise, a wrecking yard donor transmission will be a gamble. It might work or, it might be worse than what you currently have --depending on what's wrong with your current transmission.
Is your transmission physically broken that it couldn't just be rebuilt? Otherwise, a wrecking yard donor transmission will be a gamble. It might work or, it might be worse than what you currently have --depending on what's wrong with your current transmission.
Engine running, no clutch needed to shift into forward gears. Clutch depressed to get into reverse but still doesn't go anywhere.
I plan on opening it up before I do anything. I've never rebuilt a tranny and the shop wanted 800. EBay has a rebuilt one for 500.00. So I am shopping around.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
Could just be the clutch disintegrated. Always disassemble and verify what the issue is first. So there still is forward motion in the tranny (parasitic, not connected but 'rubbing' so imparts forward motion) as you need to clutch for getting it into reverse. But there's no drive because the clutch center is free wheeling. Old clutch/hard launch kind of problem.
Disconnect the battery. Support the back of the motor. Remove the starter. Remove the U-joint behind the tranny and drop the driver shaft. Undo the linkage and the six bell bolts. Drop tranny. Remove pressure plate and clutch and inspect. I really think this is a toasted clutch issue.
Disconnect the battery. Support the back of the motor. Remove the starter. Remove the U-joint behind the tranny and drop the driver shaft. Undo the linkage and the six bell bolts. Drop tranny. Remove pressure plate and clutch and inspect. I really think this is a toasted clutch issue.
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Could just be the clutch disintegrated. Always disassemble and verify what the issue is first. So there still is forward motion in the tranny (parasitic, not connected but 'rubbing' so imparts forward motion) as you need to clutch for getting it into reverse. But there's no drive because the clutch center is free wheeling. Old clutch/hard launch kind of problem.
Disconnect the battery. Support the back of the motor. Remove the starter. Remove the U-joint behind the tranny and drop the driver shaft. Undo the linkage and the six bell bolts. Drop tranny. Remove pressure plate and clutch and inspect. I really think this is a toasted clutch issue.
Disconnect the battery. Support the back of the motor. Remove the starter. Remove the U-joint behind the tranny and drop the driver shaft. Undo the linkage and the six bell bolts. Drop tranny. Remove pressure plate and clutch and inspect. I really think this is a toasted clutch issue.
Maybe this will help you help me........
Driving down the road at 55 I felt it come out of gear. I depressed clutch, put it in 3rd and nothing. came to a stop and realized I had no forward nor reverse.
...........you've made me realize it just might be the clutch. If I turn the shaft on the transmission the other end turns and it turns freely.
I will check the clutch
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I understand what your saying and I will take a look. But one thing you said maybe I need to clarify--there is no forward motion nor reverse motion unless I get behind it and push it.
Maybe this will help you help me........
Driving down the road at 55 I felt it come out of gear. I depressed clutch, put it in 3rd and nothing. came to a stop and realized I had no forward nor reverse.
...........you've made me realize it just might be the clutch. If I turn the shaft on the transmission the other end turns and it turns freely.
I will check the clutch
Maybe this will help you help me........
Driving down the road at 55 I felt it come out of gear. I depressed clutch, put it in 3rd and nothing. came to a stop and realized I had no forward nor reverse.
...........you've made me realize it just might be the clutch. If I turn the shaft on the transmission the other end turns and it turns freely.
I will check the clutch
If you want to learn about your truck pull up a chair here and we can help you, it's pretty clear that you have been getting a lot of shaky info elsewhere.
John
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
The forward motion I was talking about is rotation in the gear train only. I understand there is no forward motion in the truck itself. If things are slipping badly because the clutch has come apart or the pressure plate has lost tension, there might still be enough friction to make the gears move rotationally until a load stops them. This would explain why you had to clutch for reverse. The counter shaft will prevent reverse if it is rotating in what would be the forward motion direction. The syncro is trying to tie together two gears that are moving in the opposite directions and so it simply will not lock up. When you depress the clutch, there is no motion on the input shaft so everything else stops moving as well. Now the reverse gear can lock up because they are able to align.
The Ford three speed is a pretty stout tranny. There were issues in the car version as late as 66, but they increased the input shaft retainer and bearing and from 67 on it's fairly indestructible unless there are pieces on the ground.
The Ford three speed is a pretty stout tranny. There were issues in the car version as late as 66, but they increased the input shaft retainer and bearing and from 67 on it's fairly indestructible unless there are pieces on the ground.
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