Finally finishing up on the Base boards in my house . so back to Pebbles
I am going to rebuild and make some changes to my rear differential. I figured hit Pick your part for a 9" rear end . So i can rebuild it while I am still driving the truck .
Question is what years are interchangeable ? i already made a copy of the codes so I can try and get a good ratio/locker

thanks in advance

 

If you're talking about the entire rear end assembly, '68-'72 F100 willl have the same housing/brake drum width. --'67 F100 rear brakes (11" x 1-3/4") are narrower than '68-'72 (11 " x 2-1/4").

If you're just talking about the 3rd member, any Ford 9-inch 3rd member (car or truck) will fit any 9-inch housing --so long as the axle gear splines of the differential matches that of the axles being used.

Passenger cars will tend to have longer companion flanges (where the trailing end of the drive shaft bolts up to the 3rd member) than trucks and, many passenger car 3rd members will have a cast 'hood' sticking out over the companion flange for a chassis snubber.

Trucks don't use a snubber but the 'hood' on the driving pinion housing of a passenger car 3rd member won't hurt anything if used in a truck.

All Bumpside F100's 9-inch rears will have 28-spline axles. Only the '68-'72 F100s with a 9-3/8" rear ends had 31-spline axles (there are actually TWO different 31-spline axle versions in the 9-3/8" rear ends). One with a 1-17/32" axle bearing journal and the larger 1-5/8" axle bearing journal.

A '68-'72 9-3/8" rear with an open differential got the 31-spline axles with the 1-17/32" axle bearing I.D. The 9-3/8" rear end with a Traction-Lok differential got the larger 1-5/8" axle bearing I.D.

I have a set of 9-3/8" 31-spline axles from a '71 F100 in the '69 F100 9-inch rear under my truck. I have a Ford N-case 9-inch 3rd member with a 31-spline Traction-Lok differential and 3.50 gears from a 1975 Ford F150 4x4.

Passenger cars tend to have 28-spline differentials and higher rear end gears (lower numerically). Trucks will generally have lower rear end gears. Obviously, it would be best to get a truck 3rd member but, I'm just saying a 3rd member from a car can work.

 

Ultra, off topic but I have a question for you:
What about changing lubricant in the differential housing? My '67 still has what the factory put in it. There is no drain bung, I can't get the sucker in it and I am not sure that pulling the third member forward jus to replace fluid benefits me. What is your take?

 

Thanks for ALL the info Ultraranger , yes I am going with an Entire rear end assembly .
My original leaks like crazy , so wife said go ahead rebuild it ,I am going with all new bearings and seals ,sand blast housing and hit with self etching primer and semi gloss black . I am hoping to find a traction -lok If not I think I am going to Mini spool it . Pebbles doesn't get alot of use and I think it would be fun paired with 3.50 gears current 3.25 peg leg

 

If your truck's use is street/highway, (personally) I would not suggest a spool of any kind --mini or otherwise. There are plenty of aftermarket differentials available but if you're not continually beating and abusing on your truck, a Ford Traction-Lok differential will be more than up to the task.

Finding a factory 28-spline Traction-Lok 9-inch 3rd member isn't impossible but, it will most likely not be easy.

....I do happen to know where one is with 3.50 gears in a Bumpside in a local wrecking yard.

 

LOCKERS are expensive , thus the Mini spool . inexpensive and i can always switch it back if need be .
How much they want for that 3.50 Traction -Lok ?

 

I have no idea on the wrecking yard TL 3rd member. I just saw it last week when I was pulling the headliner out of the donor F100 it's in, to put in mine.

I always look at the tag on the door (if it's present) just to see what the axle ratio is. I was very surprised to see a "B9." The axle codes are usually 08, 09 or 17 --3.50, 3.70 and 3.25, respectively, with an open differential. I haven't seen a TL in a Bump in some years.

 

Better question, how much do YOU want to pull it and I come get it?

 

The Ford 9-inch came out in '57 and was installed in both passenger cars and trucks. In 1957, 3/8" NPT drain plugs were standard equipment in the bottom of the housing sump.

In '58 & '59, most 9-inch rear end housings had drain plugs in the sump but not all. By 1960, no more drain plugs in the housings. --I guess possibly the bean-counters put an end to the drain plugs.

If you try suctioning the gear oil out through the fill/sight hole, you will not be able to get ALL the old gear oil out. You will also not be able to take a good look inside the housing or be able to look the 3rd member/gears/bearings over if you don't pull the 3rd member from the housing. You will also not be able to 'mop' out the sump of any debris or sludge or to check it for metal shavings in it.

--What I'm trying to say is you will be much better off to pull the 3rd member from the housing, to be able to thoroughly inspect and clean things before buttoning it back up and adding fresh gear oil.

This would be the time to replace axle bearings, pinion seal, axle seals and the 3rd member-to-housing gasket.

 

And the 10 copper washers under the mounting nuts.

 

....and those too. -- 3/8" I.D.

 

Mike As noted 57-72 same overall size. If you do not have a drain your rear set is not factory. You have a combo that will give you 2 drains or no drains. For the no drain you pour 1.75qt gear oil down the raised axle.

For leaks new axle seals and silicon on the chunk, $10.00 should cover.

Change ratios if you want better mpgs or more pull, but leave it if not.

My 2


John

 

Yepper. Part number 373820-S. Which is also the same I.D. as the E0AZ2149B "Car" front disc brake banjo bolt washers. Gasket was part number E3TZ4035B. Or Ford Racing Performance Parts (Motorsport) used to carry a "reusable" rubber one. Part number M4035A. These guys show as still having some.


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Two days after I bought my truck, I lost the brakes while on the way home from work --blown right rear wheel cylinder and the (manual) MC was leaking out the back end and down the inside of the firewall, behind the carpet.

I put the truck up on jack stands and proceeded to remove the brake assemblies at all four wheels. I figured while I was removing the brakes, I would just pull the whole rear end out from under the truck, pressure wash it inside and out, bead blast it, prime it and paint it Ford Semi-gloss Black (Dupli-Color DE1635).

As it appeared in May, 2011 when I refinished it.



The original hard brake line across the back of the housing had some surface pitting on it (potential weak spots in the tubing that could blow out under pressure) so, I made a new hard line.



The paint has held up really well. This is the rear end as it appeared in January of this year when I added the 31-spline axles, 31-spline Traction-Lok N-case and the Bronco rear sway bar.







My old single vertical rib C7AW-E case 9-inch 28-spline single track 3rd member with 3.50 gears (case commonly seen in most Bumpside and Dentside 9-inch rear ends). --although in a Dentside, the differential will most likely be a 31-spline single track but, could be 28-splines or, could have a 31-spline Traction-Lok differential.




Ford D0OW-B N-case (Nodular iron) 9-inch 3rd member with Daytona heavy-duty driving pinion support, 4-pinion 31-spline Traction-Lok differential with 3.50 gears. I pulled it from a wrecking yard '75 F150 4x4 with a manual 4-speed, back in the early 2000s.



After I cleaned it up. The N-case is the ultimate in strength, when it comes to Ford 9-inch 3rd members.





Comparison of the common C7AW-E case on the left and the very rare N-case on the right.







....my other N-case with a conventional non-Daytona driving pinion support.

 

Instead of a mini-spool or TL, consider a Powertrax unit: http://www.powertrax.com/


http://www.powertrax.com/pdf/PowertraxCatalog.pdf