blasting
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 696
Likes: 48
From: Central Connecticut
I used a product called Patriot Blast - Slag Abrasive Product. There was a good discussion about blasting the frame at:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ight=sandblast
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ight=sandblast
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 29
From: in a barn
If you are using a pressure blaster like this
Black diamond (available at tractor supply) in the red bag (fine grit) works great. Air valves wide open, abrasive valve on the bottom of the blaster only open about 1/3.
Also if you have a 1/4 turn valve on the outlet end of the hose instead of a deadman valve like I do you may want to replace it with stainless as I did. The brass valve that comes with the unit will wear out quickly, and don't use the valve to regulate the amount of material, it has to be wide open or the abrasive will wear a hole in the side of the valve. In the blaster picture you can see the silver valve I am talking about which is stainless.
Put tarps up to catch the material, it goes everywhere, including in your body..get a tyvek suit, goggles, dust mask, etc.
Black diamond (available at tractor supply) in the red bag (fine grit) works great. Air valves wide open, abrasive valve on the bottom of the blaster only open about 1/3.
Also if you have a 1/4 turn valve on the outlet end of the hose instead of a deadman valve like I do you may want to replace it with stainless as I did. The brass valve that comes with the unit will wear out quickly, and don't use the valve to regulate the amount of material, it has to be wide open or the abrasive will wear a hole in the side of the valve. In the blaster picture you can see the silver valve I am talking about which is stainless.
Put tarps up to catch the material, it goes everywhere, including in your body..get a tyvek suit, goggles, dust mask, etc.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Lots of good advice here. A great forum which helps to flatten the learning curve.
I have a gravity hopper which would have taken forever to do the frame.
I took Maters frame, front axle, radiator support, and two running boards to a local power coater and had them blasted for about $250. I thought this was $$ well spent. I have done some large parts at home and prefer to let someone else do it!!! They use silica, which is cheaper and works well on heavy metal.
Either way be sure to clean all of the grease off. I scrubbed the frame and worked to dig out the grease. There are a few deep pockets on your frame where grease and dirt is hidden. Solvent, 3m pads, and a variety of brushes work well.
Have fun with your 47!
I have a gravity hopper which would have taken forever to do the frame.
I took Maters frame, front axle, radiator support, and two running boards to a local power coater and had them blasted for about $250. I thought this was $$ well spent. I have done some large parts at home and prefer to let someone else do it!!! They use silica, which is cheaper and works well on heavy metal.
Either way be sure to clean all of the grease off. I scrubbed the frame and worked to dig out the grease. There are a few deep pockets on your frame where grease and dirt is hidden. Solvent, 3m pads, and a variety of brushes work well.
Have fun with your 47!
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Waterford, Michigan
These guys have you covered but I will add my experience.
I looked around and found a blasting outfit that had several large industrial contracts. He did stuff like this in between for a very reasonable price. If I remember correctly it was a $150 for my 55 Buick frame. The catch was you had to wait until he had a break between deliveries from his big customers.
These guys also tend to use pretty aggressive media which works well for frames and heavy metal parts. It gives the metal teeth for your primer to adhere to.
One more thing and I can't state this strongly enough. DO NOT have this type of outfit blast your sheet metal parts. Most of them are not set up to perform this kind of work and will warp your panels beyond repair. Only consider them for frames and the like.
Good luck on your 47,
Rich
I looked around and found a blasting outfit that had several large industrial contracts. He did stuff like this in between for a very reasonable price. If I remember correctly it was a $150 for my 55 Buick frame. The catch was you had to wait until he had a break between deliveries from his big customers.
These guys also tend to use pretty aggressive media which works well for frames and heavy metal parts. It gives the metal teeth for your primer to adhere to.
One more thing and I can't state this strongly enough. DO NOT have this type of outfit blast your sheet metal parts. Most of them are not set up to perform this kind of work and will warp your panels beyond repair. Only consider them for frames and the like.
Good luck on your 47,
Rich
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 676
Likes: 8
From: Ontario
Glass bead is designed for rust/corrosion removal, where as crushed walnut shells are for paint only. Sand can be used in place but has a tendency to heat the parts way more. But after spraying you will need to hit it with a degreaser and make sure all the blasting dust is removed
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,920
Likes: 21
From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
I have this unit, and it works pretty well for outdoor use.
General Pump High-Pressure Abrasive Blasting Kit — 3,500 PSI, 8.0 GPM | Pressure Washer Sandblast Kits Nozzles| Northern Tool + Equipment
General Pump High-Pressure Abrasive Blasting Kit — 3,500 PSI, 8.0 GPM | Pressure Washer Sandblast Kits Nozzles| Northern Tool + Equipment
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