Hey folks, been a while since I was around here and, like usual, it's some trouble that brings me here.

So for starters, it's a 2006 6.0L F-350 DRW. 290K km.

So one day this gentleman gives me a call, and tells me that he was pulling a trailer 2 hours one way, and on the way back with the empty trailer everything was going perfectly normal until he was about 20 minutes from home. He got to hill, just pulling along and suddenly, no warning lights nothing, the engine died. Cranked strong but wouldn't restart.

At the local Ford dealer they diagnosed it; it needed 8 injectors. Somewhere in here is where he called me. I couldn't see it being injectors, and said so.

He turned the truck to me for repairs. So with a little data reading I concluded a failed HPOP or severe HPO system leak. Air tested and heard it leaking in the rear of valley, HPOP area.

After removing the HPOP cover I pressured it up again. The leak sounds to be coming from branch tube on left side. At the very rear of engine.

So that part I believe I got. Now the question. What is the best (or only) way to access this?

Can I removed transmission and rear engine cover and pull it out? Also, how is the branch tube fastened to the engine that holds it up to the stand pipes? Can it be simply pulled out the back or is there more to it than that?

Sorry about the long post!

 

Don't assume it's a branch tube. You need to dead head air test it first. It's not a common problem but it possible it's bad. I was all freaked out when I did the air test on mine and actually convinced myself it was a branch tube when it was not.

I think you have to pull the trans, rear engine cover, maybe even some push tubes?
mchan or cheezit, a few others have likely done a handful of these jobs, but I do know from what I have briefly read it's not a pic-a-nick to do this job.

 

Sorry the first pic is the early build like mine, here is a later model, rear view.

 

Does it have the updated STC fitting? are you sure its a branch tube leak and not the old style STC fitting leaking? A bad IPR will act just like you describe. Have you tried a known good IPR? Have you scanned it for codes? A leaking branch tube is extremely rare.

 

Thanks for the pictures, man. It helps the brain see what's not visible! Anyway I'll hunt for a mirror and maybe I can phisically see it.

 

Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN:
Vehicle Manufacturer:
Vehicle Calibration ID:

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P2285: Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low

Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
U1900: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
B1352: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
B1318: [Mitsubishi] Valve actuation

P1000: [Ford] OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
[Mazda] OBD II Monitor Testing Not Completed

P2291: Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking

End of report.


That's the error codes. The MAF was disconnected when codes were read.

The STC fitting is the one on rear of pump? That's not the culprit. The leak is also rearward of the stand pipes.

IPR? If I unplug IPR and pressure the system I can hear the IPR relieving pressure. Power the IPR and the leak moves to another area.

 

Hey thanks to those of you who put doubt in my mind. I checked a little further before tackling that back cover. Found one Injector that blew it's top.

 

Well that will create a leak for sure! Air leak tests can be tricky sometimes, it sounds like it's coming from a specific area when it's just in the neighborhood. I think some guys will use a scope of something to help pinpoint things. I was positive I had a light leak under the passenger valve cover when I did my HPOP, very faint noise, but turns out it was just carryover noise coming from the pump.

Funny how the dealer told the guy originally it needs all injectors. Seems that some dealers just throw the book at a 6.0 and hope they hit the target sometimes blindfolded.

I do see you have an ICP code?

 

Oh yes tis an ICP code. I realized after reading codes that the technicians at the dealer had left the ICP unplugged.

Can I replace the two steel rings, and the o-ring in the top of that injector?

I guess to be fair to the truck owner I should ask if he wants to upgrade EGR cooler at this point, since I'm back there. And it does have 290,000 km on it.

I can't help but wonder what his oil cooler is like...

 

following to see what you find.

 

The tech leaving the plug off the ICP is further confirmation to me that the dealer just wanted to throw parts at the truck.

You don't need to replace the c-clips, fact I would not even try. They are bad enough to get out with the injector out of the engine, but you can do this trick with the injector in the truck. I did it on the drivers side, takes a little patience but it's doable. I got the kits from Alliant, through these guys.

Injector Seal Kit Stock Replacement Ford Powerstroke 2003-2009 6.0L

I thought you said the injector blew it's top?
Sounds like more than just the top o-ring then?

Good idea offering to upgrade the EGR cooler......hopefully he sees the value in that labor wise.

 

Yes it blew the snap ring, broke the steel washer in half, and of course the o-ring. The reseal kit doesn't include steel washer so I guess I'll be installing one new injector.

After speaking to the owner I also ordered an EGR delete.

Here's a link to a photo of the injector.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1e...p=docslist_api

 

That'll do it, glad you found it.

 

Ouch! Well, your better off putting in another injector at that point, no telling what else might go wrong further down. It beats doing a branch tube

 

Those seals are actually difficult to replace and if you are not careful you can damage the circlip (old and new) and the groove it snaps into. Doing this with the injector installed in the engine is also not recommended because you can drop parts into the engine that MUST be retrieved. I have done a couple of these. Most of the time the steel backing ring is cracked therefore the injector needs to be replaced because it is not included in the kit. I suppose its worth a shot if all you need is the seal replaced, have the patience and want to save the cost of the injector. But again, if you buy the seal kit, it comes with all of the seals for the injector so take the injector out of the cylinder head to do this.