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2003 with P2285 . . .

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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 03:17 PM
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2003 with P2285 . . .

I'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.

Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 04:38 PM
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You're on the right track. Technically, the ICP defaults to a 3 step strategy, if you drive with it unhooked you'll see it at one of those three setting depending on load.

Harness issues are common. If you get into it, db-lg is the signal wire, the gy-rd is the ground wire, and the bn-wh wire is a five volt reference.

Getting to is is a booger. I don't like to fight with stuff so I'd pull the coolant bottle, FICM, and even roll the turbo out of the way. Some, maybe with long slender arms have gotten to it both from top and bottom. The 03 has the crossover on the back of the intake which makes it even less fun. A ratchet with a small head is a big help to me but I don't use an extension. I think some manage to get to it with a swivel and extension.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'ma print it out so I have the wire colors. If I do that, I won't need them
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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It can generate the misfire issues as well. Fix the icp issue first.
I find them easy from the bottom. A 12pt crowsfoot on a short ratchet is what I use. Change the connector from the top.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 04:27 PM
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The truck finally showed back up, and I got the sensor in from the top. Didn't need to move the turbocharger to do it, but I did have to use a little ingenuity to get the new one in. I ended up getting in the area with a magnet-on-a-stick, then supported it from the connector end with a small prybar and used the magnet to spin it until it caught a thread. The picture below isn't so great, but hopefully it's enough to convey what I did. Perhaps this will help someone else sometime.

The sensor was definitely toast, and the connector was kind of raggedy so it got replaced as well. Unfortunately, the truck still runs like crap, lol. Fuel pressure test will be done tomorrow. I really don't think this truck hasn't been very well maintained, so it probably has multiple issues to track down including, I suspect, a bad injector or two.

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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 04:40 PM
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Good one! I would have never tried that, however as Rusty mentioned longer forearms help, for me underneath is actually a piece of cake once the turbo shield is off.

If maintenance has suffered then yes, there will likely be other issues.......they are not as forgiving as other engines if neglected for too long.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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My hands are just a little too big to get in there. I could get my fingertips on it, but couldn't turn it. It was actually harder getting the connector back on than getting the sensor in. I had to break out the extra-long, curved needle nose pliers for that
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
If maintenance has suffered then yes, there will likely be other issues.......they are not as forgiving as other engines if neglected for too long.
Well, it looks like I found one of those other issues, lol. I'd say the fuel tank is delaminating pretty badly. I'm amazed this truck had 52 or so psi fuel pressure at the test port . . .

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