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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rag Joint Replacement

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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 12:12 PM
  #16  
WhatsAChevy?'s Avatar
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And the verdict is.....

The defense has presented a very good case for using the OEM style Rag Joint replacement along with using lock washer hardware. All testimony has been considered and i will be replacing it with stock replacement parts with hardware suggestions....this case is adjourned.
All parties feel free to continue the conversation as it may help others. Thanks Everyone !
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 12:22 PM
  #17  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by madpogue
We have a FR u-joint on one truck, and the original rag joint on the other. I don't feel a bit of difference wrt. vibration.
You probably wouldn't feel vibration without the rag joint considering theses are a gear box style steering system and thus have some slack in them. With a r&p style steering you might but even then you would still have the rack mounted in rubber which would isolate it some but still wouldn't isolate it from the tires itself.


But if you have proper tires or atleast proper air pressure this shouldn't be a problem


God know this one guy at work he keeps telling me I shouldn't be running air pressure the door tag says as if the tire says "Max PSI" that means its a high pressure low resistance tire and it should be with in 5 to 10 PSI of the Max PSI. I am like no "Max PSI" is just that, the max you can inflate the tire for a given load. My tires say 50 PSI cause they are 31x10.50-15 tires with side walls that are over kill for the weight of the truck. Running 28 PSI front and rear results in a even foot print and a softer ride.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:43 PM
  #18  
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Thanks, FuzzFace2. I learned something, today!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:05 PM
  #19  
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From: Algona,WA
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Matthew
Read the warnings on anerobic thread lockers.
Do not use Loctite with or near plastics.
So... either/or.
Perhaps -better yet- an all metal prevaling torque locking nut. One that is distorted into an oval or triangle at the 'out' side.

I'm pretty sure I used Allen bolts (for room) and toplock nuts on the other side.
Never knew about not using loctite with plastics. If I can find the all metal style locking nuts in the right thread size I'd rather use those.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:17 PM
  #20  
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Subjective

Originally Posted by Rusty_S
You probably wouldn't feel vibration without the rag joint considering theses are a gear box style steering system and thus have some slack in them. With a r&p style steering you might but even then you would still have the rack mounted in rubber which would isolate it some but still wouldn't isolate it from the tires itself.


But if you have proper tires or atleast proper air pressure this shouldn't be a problem


God know this one guy at work he keeps telling me I shouldn't be running air pressure the door tag says as if the tire says "Max PSI" that means its a high pressure low resistance tire and it should be with in 5 to 10 PSI of the Max PSI. I am like no "Max PSI" is just that, the max you can inflate the tire for a given load. My tires say 50 PSI cause they are 31x10.50-15 tires with side walls that are over kill for the weight of the truck. Running 28 PSI front and rear results in a even foot print and a softer ride.
When I worked at dealers, I had the opportunity to consult with tire manufacturer representatives due to warranty claim adjustments concerning tires and steering/suspension issues,etc., some from Firestone and some from Goodyear.
The one explanation i found that they both had in common was
"composite compound".
Every tire manufacturer starts out with the same basic method and compounds.....but then, things change given each manufacturer's processes. Some, as in the case with Goodyear, choose a softer composition, where as Firestone chooses to produce a stiffer, more rigid composition.
These are just two examples of the many tire manufacturer's choices. Irregardless of this, I have never seen a "door jamb sticker's " specs match a tire sidewall's recommendations given the fact that vehicle manufacturers have used multiple tire manufacturer's products, due to cost/availability over how many years of production. Loyalty has gone the way of cost efficiency, long ago.
Long gone are the days when Henry Ford used Harvey Firestone's tires because the two were so closely connected.
The max PSI indicated on the sidewall of any tire is the max pressure given per the max gvw of the vehicle application as manufactured with intended/projected passenger load. Tires are stress tested at max inflation for "separation purposes". Any tire rep will tell you that if your vehicle's intent is to haul weight, a load rated tire is suggested. This is why "multi-ply tires" are still offered for light duty trucks.
And then there is the choice to use pump air or Nitrogen. I personally use Nitrogen as it does not to react with temperature differences within acceptable margins.
 
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