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Given my sloppy @zz steering, I've elected to remove the PO's hacked up 3" spring spacers, the abortion upper ball joint shims (replacing with new ball joints), and replacing the steering gear with a RedHead....My next adventure in the chain of events is the steering shaft.
My question is : Does anyone know of an updated replacement for the original rag joint "stitched buffer", such as a urethane replacement? I've looked around at most of the suppliers but haven't found anything. I may be reaching and trying to fix what didn't weaken for over 150,000 miles but i'm curious..
I don't see how his response is inept... you asked him to tell you if his product would work in your truck; how is he going to know that without looking at what is currently in your truck?
In any event, he said this thing is is for 1974 - 1990 models, looks to be 3/4" diameter with 36 splines and is 22" overall length - what is so inept about that? Because he can't tell you it will work in your truck but he's never even SEEN your truck?
Anyone wanting to replace the rubber & cloth rag joint with a solid Ujoint type know road vibrations will come up thru the shaft to the wheel in your hands.
That is why the rubber joint was there to stop the vibration coming up the shaft to the wheel in your hands.
Dave ----
Anyone wanting to replace the rubber & cloth rag joint with a solid Ujoint type know road vibrations will come up thru the shaft to the wheel in your hands.
That is why the rubber joint was there to stop the vibration coming up the shaft to the wheel in your hands.
Dave ----
That's the reason I didn't replace mine, LMC sells one as well as NPD that is a OEM style steering shaft but it has two needle bearing U joints with no rag joint. Might look pretty but there will be no shock dampening from bumps you hit in the road. Plus the price tag for that thing was nearly $650 last time I looked. I can get a rag joint repair kit and rebuild my oem one for a fraction of that.
I replaced my rag joint for $10. Bought it off the HELP section at Oreilly auto parts.
I drilled out the old rivets, (have a GOOD drill and GOOD bits for that!)
The hardware that came with the kit was garabge except for the washer things. So, I just used metric bolts in place of the supplied hardware. Piece of cake. I'd recommend using nylock nuts and thread locker.
Matthew
Read the warnings on anerobic thread lockers.
Do not use Loctite with or near plastics.
So... either/or.
Perhaps -better yet- an all metal prevaling torque locking nut. One that is distorted into an oval or triangle at the 'out' side.
I'm pretty sure I used Allen bolts (for room) and toplock nuts on the other side.
Matthew
Read the warnings on anerobic thread lockers.
Do not use Loctite with or near plastics.
So... either/or.
Perhaps -better yet- an all metal prevaling torque locking nut. One that is distorted into an oval or triangle at the 'out' side.
I'm pretty sure I used Allen bolts (for room) and toplock nuts on the other side.
When I saw the post of nylock nut & Loctite I thought the same thing.
I want to say the stock hardware that I have seen & used on other make cars used the distorted metal nuts and what I would use.
I know on older AMC/GM cars there are 2 different rag joints one for power and the other for non-power and it is at the box end.
The power box input shaft is larger than the non-power is this the same for Ford too?
Dave ----
