I am working on my partner's 2007 F250, it was running great, and we did an aftermarket EGR cooler, and a new oil cooler, and of course the screen was torn in the old one, tore it all down, cleaned everything, put it all back together.......with the new parts, and no start, we cranked and cranked and cranked on it, for about 20 to 30 seconds at a time, giving it 3 to 5 minutes cool off time for the starter between cranking, about 30 times over a two day period, and no start. Finally, I decided to give it a little starting fluid, and it finally kicked off, it would run at a higher RPM, and if you so much as let off the throttle a fraction of an inch it would die, and not start again without starting fluid. I got it running again with the fluid, it was at 2000 RPM, and my mechanic reached over and turned on the A/C (we are in Florida) and it died. I have no way to check the HPOP pressure, but the truck was running great before we did this, and I checked it for codes, there are none! It will not start without the starting fluid. The longest we had it running was about three minutes, then his foot slipped back just a hair on the throttle, and it died. The truck only has 117K miles on it.

 

It totally worth getting a scan gauge to see what your oil psi is. If your IPR is totally shut (78%-85%) to maintain idle oil pressure, then there's red flag for a HPO leak. If not, go from there. I don't know how i'd live without my scan tools.

 

DONT USE STARTER FLUID--bad stuff can happen
When you do that kind of work you get ALOT of air in the system and can take some time to clear. You do need to have something like scangauge or obdii adapter and app to read live data or you're just pissing in the wind trying to figure a problem out.

 

Yeah, without scan tools its hard to say. However if you replaced the oil cooler did you get the area real clean? If not I can clog the IPR screen and cause a no start. But I don't think it would clog that fast, usually within a couple hundred miles after service.

 

When i did mine a couple years ago, it did the same thing. I would suggest going back over all the electrical connections to the oil/fuel pump, IPR, ICP sensor, PCM, and especially FCIM. I dont mean to insult anyones mechanical skills. If so, I would be insulting mine first. Definitely invest in something to give live data though. That was the best advice I got from here. Too bad it wasnt before I had my early problems.

 

yeah, I don't really like the starting fluid either, but I had read several posts on different forums where a lot of the guys said it won't hurt to use a little bit. but that is the only way she will fire. it is just so strange, because it was running perfectly before we put the new EGR cooler and oil cooler and. Other than the old EGR cooler leaking water into the exhaust

 

x2 on checking the FICM. If you need gauges, we carry an assortment at:

Monitor & Tuners

I really like the CTS2, but it's a spendy little bugger.

 

Bet you didn't read that here..... but then again you could have

 

Well the ground to the FICM is definitely attached, so back to square one!

 

As long as you are in there, I'd go ahead and clean the ground up.

 

The ground stud on the heat shield is noting more than an electrical shield.
The true ground for the FICM at least for the 06+ is over by the ABS module
on the driver side sheet metal inner fender supports. You want G101.
See page 10-4 in the PDF


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Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Pull the IPR and see if the screen is sucked in, often times despite your best efforts at being clean you can end up with debris left behind that will clog the IPR screen and cause it to hang open, the biggest culprit is lint from rags or paper towels.

 

For sure, also dirt from stuff that gets dislodged when you take the top end apart. You can blow and blow and scrape, and you will still have stuff wind up breaking loose. I can't remember how many times I took a rag on the end of a screwdriver and ran it along the sides of the HPOP cover, oil cooler and any other mating surface. Every time I walked away for a day, I covered the whole works in lint free rags with towels on top. Looked like a coronary bypass was going on, however I was perhaps a bit paranoid....at any rate I did not want any chucks or a stray bolt falling somewhere and getting lost in the abyss. I'm sure some of the master techs will get a kick out of the picture, but when your doing something the first time you tend to get a little carried away

 

Where in Florida are you?

 

Stop wasting time and get some way to get some data. If you have an android device, you can use Torque Pro for less than $25. It'll be the best $$$ you spend on this truck.

Lint has been known to clog the IPR screen if you used rags to clean the oil valley. Did you check that when you had it torn down? I vaccumed my valley out with a shop vac before reassembly. poured 2 qts of oil down the center of the oil filter base before installing the oil filter tower, and mine fired up within a second of the first crank. Others have been known to take 10 or so 20 second spins of the starter to start and another day to bleed all the air.