So I forked over the big bucks for a Facet Duralift 40285. Got everything hooked up, pump runs and the reservoir is about 1/3 full. I bled the system out at the Schrader valve. Truck won't start, gave it a healthy shot of WD40; truck started and ran for a few seconds and died. Tried this a few times, same result. Not sure what I could have done wrong. Any ideas?

 

Any smoke while cranking it over? Not sure how, but given that you had the fuel system open, gotta be air or no fuel.

 

Perhaps the line into the pump is leaking air? The bowl should be full.

How full is your stock fuel filter? It it's not totally full you've got air getting into the system.

Could be anything south of the new pump, or maybe the fuel tank isn't full enough?

 

Yeah I guess I'll have to back track a bit and see if I forgot to tighten a hose clamp somewhere. I was getting a ton of air coming out when I was bleeding the system.

 

My glass bowl fills up totally when I use it. I'd disconnect the outlet side of the electric pump and power it up. The bowl should fill totally before anything comes out of the discharge port. Once the pump is primed, hook it back up, crack the hard line on the back of your filter housing and power the pump until you get fuel out of the hard line fitting. Tighten the fitting and start the truck.


If you don't get a full bowl then you have an issue on the downstream side of your pump.


First check the tank selector valve for proper operation. Try cycling the valve and see if one tank will deliver fuel to the pump.


Check fuel tank level and make sure they over 1/4 tank...full is best.


Good luck and may the Force be with you.

 

Is there a certain voltage required at the FSS?

 

yup, 12 volts

 

I just did the same conversion a few weeks ago, I was having all sort of trouble with the truck running rough and occasionally dying after the change. I put the pump where the old oil/water separator had been and used the lines that had been there. After a while I noticed that the fuel level in the bowl on the pump was going up and down. Turned out I had too small of a fitting on the inlet of the pump for the rubber fuel line. I tried cranking down the hose crimp super tight but it didn't fix it (it did improve it, but I'm guessing the 30 year old fuel line just didn't seal like a new one would when tightened down). I changed both the rubber hose (using a new green shield line) and the fitting and now the fuel bowl stays filled and the truck runs great.

So the summary of the story is, make sure you have the right fitting size and use new hoses; old hoses just don't seal up like new ones.

 

Well I just got home from work. Gotta help the wife take care of the barn chores. Then I'm going to take another stab at this. First I'm going to check the voltage at the FSS. Then check for air leaks. The inlet and outlets on this pump are 1/8 NPT seems a little small. I bought two 90 degree fittings and 1/8 to 3/8" id barbed fittings and 3/8" fuel line. I figured that should be good enough. Maybe not?

 

Your fittings are big enough. Che ck the fss by disconnecting and reconnexting it. You should hear it click. If that works loosn a few of the lines at the injector then crank it to bleed it.

 

I think have to be sucking air, or I have a bad pump. I hook it straight to the battery for testing purposes. The pump runs the fuel level goes up then down, then back up and down. While all this is happening the pump bogs and picks up again. Both the feed and return lines are brand new from the tank all the way up to the motor. Not a happy camper!

 

You are sucking air. My dad's truck does this too on one tank. Chances are, cone of failure, hole in the line, or partially stuck fuel selector valve.

Get a small jerry can and hook that up to the front bumper, run the supply line to the Faucet into it. If it runs nicely off that, then you know you have tank/line problems.

 

I got it running but it lopes and runs rough. Definitely gotta be sucking air, the reservoir is half full. I see a lot of bubbles coming in through the inlet. I have all new steel and rubber through out. Probably one of the double flare unions not sealing. Gonna try replacing it with a compression union. I double clamped all the rubber hoses with fuel injection clamps.

 

These aren't brake lines, the pressure is LOW. You don't need double flares, and one clamp is all you should need on rubber lines. (you're going overboard here.... but they really shouldn't be leaking unless you really screwed the pooch on the flare).
A compression union will be fine, but I don't think you should jump at that right away. How much fuel is in your tank/tanks?

Have you tried to feed the pump from a separate tank like Macrobb suggested? That should help you narrow things down as to whether you have an issue at the pump, or down the lines.

You really want to narrow down where your problem is before you chase your tail all over the truck.

 

The truck has a half a tank of fuel. It used to have dual tanks, I deleted the front tank and bypassed the selector valve. I bought the pre-made flared steel lines (they come double flared) to replace the rotted out originals. As for going overkill on clamps, yeah you got me there. But I use them in places where I don't have the barbed fittings or flared ends. I hate leaks! Anyway the compression fittings seem to have done the trick. No more bubbles in the fuel bowl, and the engine purrs like a kitten. I was having trouble starting it even after sitting for a few minutes, that seems to be cleared up. The real test will be when I try a cold start after work tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys, it is very much appreciated!