Facet Duralift conversion problems...
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
Likes: 5
From: Muskegon, MI (home)
The truck has a half a tank of fuel. It used to have dual tanks, I deleted the front tank and bypassed the selector valve. I bought the pre-made flared steel lines (they come double flared) to replace the rotted out originals. As for going overkill on clamps, yeah you got me there. But I use them in places where I don't have the barbed fittings or flared ends. I hate leaks! Anyway the compression fittings seem to have done the trick. No more bubbles in the fuel bowl, and the engine purrs like a kitten. I was having trouble starting it even after sitting for a few minutes, that seems to be cleared up. The real test will be when I try a cold start after work tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys, it is very much appreciated!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
Facet Duralift conversion problems...
IP timing won't cause random cold-start issues.
It WILL make it easier/harder to start, but we are talking big chunks of timing, like 5-8* and beyond. (My pump used to be AMAZINGLY retarded, supposed to be at 8*BTDC I think I was at 2*ATDC once I finally got a timing meter on it. Anyway, started like a dream super retarded like that.)
I know you've gone over this already but you may have to re-evaluate every connection from tank to epump, then each one from e pump to fuel filter header, and everything coming off the header too.
Do you still have the stock air-return line from your fuel header? It's the little line that goes from filter header to the #1 cyl if you still have it. Has a little rubber check-valve in it which dies and then becomes an air-intrusion magnet. Either put a real check valve in place of it or plug it all together. Just note that if you plug it and lose your prime you'll have to find a way to fill up the fuel filter before re-priming the system(not hard just don't forget! I know the hard way...)
Oh and air is thinner than fuel so you can often have a place air will leak into a hose/seal, but fuel won't leak out, which makes looking for air intrusion points quite tough.
Something thing you can do to verify that it's air instead of glowplug system is to temporarily install a clear hose between the IP outlet and the return line. Then before you run the engine just pop the hood and turn on the pump with power to the IP, this opens the check valve in the back of the IP and lets air out faster. It's pretty easy to tell at that point, if air comes out you have air intrusion!
It WILL make it easier/harder to start, but we are talking big chunks of timing, like 5-8* and beyond. (My pump used to be AMAZINGLY retarded, supposed to be at 8*BTDC I think I was at 2*ATDC once I finally got a timing meter on it. Anyway, started like a dream super retarded like that.)
I know you've gone over this already but you may have to re-evaluate every connection from tank to epump, then each one from e pump to fuel filter header, and everything coming off the header too.
Do you still have the stock air-return line from your fuel header? It's the little line that goes from filter header to the #1 cyl if you still have it. Has a little rubber check-valve in it which dies and then becomes an air-intrusion magnet. Either put a real check valve in place of it or plug it all together. Just note that if you plug it and lose your prime you'll have to find a way to fill up the fuel filter before re-priming the system(not hard just don't forget! I know the hard way...)
Oh and air is thinner than fuel so you can often have a place air will leak into a hose/seal, but fuel won't leak out, which makes looking for air intrusion points quite tough.
Something thing you can do to verify that it's air instead of glowplug system is to temporarily install a clear hose between the IP outlet and the return line. Then before you run the engine just pop the hood and turn on the pump with power to the IP, this opens the check valve in the back of the IP and lets air out faster. It's pretty easy to tell at that point, if air comes out you have air intrusion!
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
Likes: 5
From: Muskegon, MI (home)
IP timing won't cause random cold-start issues.
It WILL make it easier/harder to start, but we are talking big chunks of timing, like 5-8* and beyond. (My pump used to be AMAZINGLY retarded, supposed to be at 8*BTDC I think I was at 2*ATDC once I finally got a timing meter on it. Anyway, started like a dream super retarded like that.)
I know you've gone over this already but you may have to re-evaluate every connection from tank to epump, then each one from e pump to fuel filter header, and everything coming off the header too.
Do you still have the stock air-return line from your fuel header? It's the little line that goes from filter header to the #1 cyl if you still have it. Has a little rubber check-valve in it which dies and then becomes an air-intrusion magnet. Either put a real check valve in place of it or plug it all together. Just note that if you plug it and lose your prime you'll have to find a way to fill up the fuel filter before re-priming the system(not hard just don't forget! I know the hard way...)
Oh and air is thinner than fuel so you can often have a place air will leak into a hose/seal, but fuel won't leak out, which makes looking for air intrusion points quite tough.
Something thing you can do to verify that it's air instead of glowplug system is to temporarily install a clear hose between the IP outlet and the return line. Then before you run the engine just pop the hood and turn on the pump with power to the IP, this opens the check valve in the back of the IP and lets air out faster. It's pretty easy to tell at that point, if air comes out you have air intrusion!
It WILL make it easier/harder to start, but we are talking big chunks of timing, like 5-8* and beyond. (My pump used to be AMAZINGLY retarded, supposed to be at 8*BTDC I think I was at 2*ATDC once I finally got a timing meter on it. Anyway, started like a dream super retarded like that.)
I know you've gone over this already but you may have to re-evaluate every connection from tank to epump, then each one from e pump to fuel filter header, and everything coming off the header too.
Do you still have the stock air-return line from your fuel header? It's the little line that goes from filter header to the #1 cyl if you still have it. Has a little rubber check-valve in it which dies and then becomes an air-intrusion magnet. Either put a real check valve in place of it or plug it all together. Just note that if you plug it and lose your prime you'll have to find a way to fill up the fuel filter before re-priming the system(not hard just don't forget! I know the hard way...)
Oh and air is thinner than fuel so you can often have a place air will leak into a hose/seal, but fuel won't leak out, which makes looking for air intrusion points quite tough.
Something thing you can do to verify that it's air instead of glowplug system is to temporarily install a clear hose between the IP outlet and the return line. Then before you run the engine just pop the hood and turn on the pump with power to the IP, this opens the check valve in the back of the IP and lets air out faster. It's pretty easy to tell at that point, if air comes out you have air intrusion!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Also, do yourself a favor and get a $5 squeeze-bulb primer and put it in the incoming line just before the filter head. It has two check-valves in it and works amazingly well to keep things from draining down.
As a plus, you can always squeeze it to see if there's air in the system at that point, or prime the system manually if things go wrong.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,566
Likes: 5,601
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
no need for the squeeze bulb with the facet in the line, there are one way valves in the facet pump.
i need injectors, o-rings, and caps on the 88. since i put the facet pump on i have not had one lick of air intrusion problems.
i need injectors, o-rings, and caps on the 88. since i put the facet pump on i have not had one lick of air intrusion problems.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
Macrobb I agree that you can fill the fuel filter using the key on and throttle, but if you forget to do that first(like I have) then you just make more air go into the IP and waste time. Just don't forget!
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