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I need to replace the pig tail on my cam sensor, only problem is locating it. I have a 2004 6.0. I know it's some where on drivers side underneath. Thanks in advance for any help.
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
NOTICE: Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position prior to working on the electronic engine controls.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt from the power steering pump pulley.
Remove the 3 bolts and position the power steering pump aside.
To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE:The CMP sensor is located behind the power steering pump.
Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
Remove the bolt and the CMP sensor.
NOTE:Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring before installation.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Verify that the accessory drive belt is correctly seated on the pulleys.
Rusty Not sure if you know this trick for shield lines of not.
BTW This is NOT an approved repair but it does work very well. Get you hands on some
RG-6 coaxial cable to remove the shield. You gently slit the jacket and remove it. Then press
the shield to that is sort of bunches up to one end. It should expand in size doing that. Cut the
cable a bit past the amount of shield you need and slide it over the foam core and center
conductor. Prep the wire your working on by staggering the cuts so all the splices don't fall on
top of each other and make a FAT splice. Place some heat shrink for the over the top jacket on
finished harness and the shield over the wires you working on first because the plug may not fit inside
the shield your using. Make you splices in the wires. Keep the sections short and use the heat shrink.
NOTE on heat shrink. If you can use the type that has the mastic in it to seal the wires up. Don't get the
how mastic on you hands. It's like hot glue.
Once you have the 3 wires reconnected slide the new shield down over the repair and then connect the
wire that is under the foil to the shield and at this point you can use the foil over the top or just slide the
outer heat shrink over it as a jacket. Again mastic type would be best. Keeps things dry.
One other note and this is do to my background. I won't solder the wires. The reason it makes them stiff
and more prone to breaking that with a good crimp. Now if your going to crimp and do it every now and then
pick up a nice Kline crimp/cut pliers. Not the trash at the local auto parts store. You need insulated 10~22
Like this set here.
The crimpers I use would have most running for the hills do to the cost. About $1600for the one set and the basic
die set for the one kit. You could get away with a DMC HX4 with a Y501 die. That would let you do #10~#22 wire.
They make a really nice crimp. Just don't look at the tool price.
Once you have the base HX4 you can change dies to what ever you need.
With the crimper set I have I can do the normal automotive splice type crimps along with ring and spade
type connector with the other tool in the set I can do pins and sockets of the type that use 4 or 8 indents
to hold the wire into the pin. Along with that I can make up plugs.
For most this will be more than just a little over kill. But if you do it say in and day out they are well worth the cost
in not having to go back and rework a failed crimp in a harness. For most the Kline pliers will the very good. They
hold up well. Unlike the cheap crap crimpers that shift to one side and not get the connector squeezed down enough.
Yup, we have those high dollar crimpers at work as well as the ones for crimping pins for cannon plugs. I think they Are even made by Daniels. I buy the parts store splices and connectors but I usuially pull off the insulation, tin the wires, crimp, solder again and use heat shrink. Very tidy and short as possible on the solder line. My crimpers are cheap but I found a pair with the tab that almost pokes a hole in the collar like the pair you pictured above. I posted the link above because I think it is a serviceable repair and the OP made pretty clever use of things he had on hand. The idea of repurposing the coax shield is pretty clever also! Might come out little cleaner than the foil. Staggering splices is electrical repair 101.
I still pretty much solder everything I do unless I'm in a big hurry, or am doing something I consider temporary. I have an ancient IsoTip rechargeable iorn I bought years ago at a surplus place. It's a model 7700 I think from the 70's and I've replaced the batteries a couple times since I've had it but the tips are still available and I even have the little drill motor attachment for circuit board work and a TINY set of bits that go down to .0135 (pictured).
Something that gets overlooked often when doing this kind of work is stripping, I do my best not to even nick any of the conductors. I learned the importance of that in a high-value soldering class I took when I was Active Duty. Two week class and it took me the first two days to properly strip 6 wires. The instructor looked at them with a microscope, no kiddin! Anyway, the class was required certification to do repairs on USAF harnesses and at the time I was building complete pylon harness from scratch. Thermal strippers are the way to go but I haven't invested in one. I started out using razor blades in a pin vise, the blade sticking up just the right amount, but I ended up getting comfortable with the strippers in the pic below. I'm a little embarrassed at the condition of the tip on the iron, I didn't clean it after I used it last but it was just sitting here and I snapped a shot. Pretty old, basic stuff to be working with but I guess it's the results that matter...
Kleenex box for scale (and boogers, weathers killin my sinuses )
This should cover both our side chat and the OP when it comes to wire striping.
The Idea brand Stripmaster auto wire stripers work very well so long as you use the right
set of blades.
You will find that they are very easy to use and can be found at your local BIG BOX hardware store.
I think I have 3 sets. I do need some new blades. Kapton and Teflon is not the best type blade to
use. But you should not find that at Home Depot or Lowes. Just the vinyl insulation type is all you should need.
On the heat shrink you might have to search a little bit for the mastic filled heat shrink.
But you will find it well worth the effort do to the water proofing that it will give you.
i had a bad pigtail on the crank sensor. Once I found the correct pigtail it was really easy to replace. I used a crimp with heat shrink. Once it was all together I wrapped it tightly with foil and used a good electrical tape to finish it off. It has worked perfectly ever since. The shielding is important but just keeps noise out. Good luck.
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