Hey folks, just got my camshaft synchronizer replaced........ to the tune of $960!! I know, raped.... man thats a lot of money. This is at the Ford dealer by the way. Heres the deal, I just had them diagnose the CEL and told them I had a new synchronizer and sensor if that was the problem. 6 hours later, they tell me that the synch, sensor, wire harness, and wire connector are all bad. Ok. No problem, the only thing I didn't have were the wire parts. $46 for those. No big deal.

Well, apparantly in the "new" design of the synchronizer, the timing, ignition, and PCM all needed to be "reset" and "updated". The PCM had to be reflashed. And they also told me something had to be done with the MAF. Recalibrated maybe... don't know yet. All this labor shot the price way up.

Upon doing all this work, they also tell me that my rear main seal and the oil pan gasket are leaking oil. This would explain the oil loss after road trips and every so often.... I had no idea the cost associated with replacing the rear main seal - the oil pan gasket not so bad, could probably do that myself. I did some research and unless your gonna drop the tranny or do major engine work, its not worth replacing the rear main seal unless its a HUGE leak. So... I did some more research and found that Bar's makes a rear main leak oil additive that I can just add to the oil and it will help with the leak. I also still use 5w30 oil and was pretty much finding that I should switch to a heavier oil like 10w30 to help things a bit.

I dont have the truck yet, I assumed that this would take all day so I rented a car conveniently, and had the dealer pay for it. Will pick it up tomorrow but the guy says the truck is running a lot better...... we'll hope so!!!

All this sound right/ok with you guys? Any input is appreciated....

 

You might take some time to search this forum for others who have replaced the cam sensor and synchronizer on the 1996-2000 V8 Explorer and Mountaineer. I think you'll find that others have replaced these parts without needing to update the PCM. I wonder if you can get the "new" part numbers as well as the part numbers for the "old" parts to help you and us understand what's different between them and why it would warrant a reflash.

From the factory service manual, here are the removal and installation steps for the CMP sensor (no mention of any PCM mods following installation):
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor — 5.0L, 4.0L (Push Rod)

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».

2. For 4.0L (push rod) remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-01A».

3. Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor.

Installation

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

And for the synchronizer:
Synchronizer — 5.0L


Special Service Tool(s)

Synchro Positioning Tool
303-630

Removal

CAUTION:
Prior to the removal of the camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (6B288) (CMP sensor), set the No. 1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Then note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. Installation procedures require that the electrical connector be located in the same position.

CAUTION:
Once the engine is aligned at TDC, do not move the crankshaft (6303) until the entire procedure is complete. Doing so will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, causing a possible emissions fault.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».

2. Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor.
3. Remove the (A) bolt and (B) clamp.

4. Remove the camshaft synchronizer from the cylinder block (6010).

Installation

CAUTION:
Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

1. Install (A) Synchro Positioning Tool, aligning tabs and notches with those on the (B) camshaft synchronizer.

2. Install the camshaft synchronizer and positioning tool assembly into the cylinder block.

3. When installing the camshaft synchronizer into the cylinder block, make sure that the arrow on (A) Synchro Positioning Tool is pointing toward the front of the vehicle, on a (B) line that is parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.

4. Position the clamp and install the bolt.

5. Remove Synchro Positioning Tool.

6. Install the CMP sensor.
7. Connect the battery ground cable.

Again, no mention of a need to reflash. Unless the new synchronizer has a different number of gaps or the gap spacing is different, I see no reason any changes would have to be made to the PCM.

-Rod

 

Or, they did not follow the TSB and had to re-time for fuel issues...... Philip

 

After 2 full days at the dealer, got the truck back. All runs fine now.... although there is still a minor exhaust leak somewhere around the EGR area. I can definitely hear it when the truck is under load (like accelerating from a red light), you can't hear it at cruising highway speeds.

After talking with the service advisor a little more about why they had to update the PCM, it sounded more like just a general software update and not something tied specifically to the cam synchronizer.

I also picked up some high mileage valvoline 10w30 and some bar's rear main seal leak additive (also seals gaskets). Will do oil change soon.

Attached is the invoice so you can judge for yourself, it gets too technical for me lol.

FYI - the oil leaks are the oil pan gasket, the rear main seal, and the front differential seals (both ends).