When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am working on removing my radiator to do some repairs on my 2007 F250 and I have run into a snag. I need to remove the tranny cooler lines from the radiator and I cannot get them to come off. I purchased a tool to remove them and it fits right in and seems to release the connection but the line will not come out. After fighting about an hour with it i went to my machine shop and made me a tool that was a little more heavy duty thinking it may just not be pushed in all the way. I used it and pushed it in as far as it would go, even tapped it with a little hammer a bit to make sure it went it.. Nothing. still stuck.
Anyone have a suggestion?
I have cleaned them really good and put every type of penetrating oil known to man on them.
Haven't attempted this myself but I have read on the forum in the past that if you push IN on the line at the same time you put the tool in the tool will release the line....IDK if that works or not but if you haven't tried it yet maybe you could.
I am working on removing my radiator to do some repairs on my 2007 F250 and I have run into a snag. I need to remove the tranny cooler lines from the radiator and I cannot get them to come off. I purchased a tool to remove them and it fits right in and seems to release the connection but the line will not come out. After fighting about an hour with it i went to my machine shop and made me a tool that was a little more heavy duty thinking it may just not be pushed in all the way. I used it and pushed it in as far as it would go, even tapped it with a little hammer a bit to make sure it went it.. Nothing. still stuck.
Anyone have a suggestion?
I have cleaned them really good and put every type of penetrating oil known to man on them.
I fought with the passenger side fitting for a while for some reason. The only suggestion I have would be to try pushing the line in as you are trying to push the tool in. Once you feel you have the tool seated as far as it can go, then pull on the line.
I have done that exactly like it says to do it. Push in thill seated then pull line. But the line doesn't pull. It just pulls the tool back out no matter how hard I try to hold it in. I know how the fitting works but it isn't releasing.
Two pieces of wood. One like a short piece of 2x4 to pry against, the other a 2x2 to use as a pry bar on the line at the 90° bend. Works well once you figure out the angles the first time. You are correct that the Tool is unlocking the fitting, the tube is stuck in place.
I sort of tried something like that but maybe not as elaborate. I am making myself a heavier duty release tool in my shop and I will try again using your idea. I kind of figured it was just stuck but I really didn't want to pry too hard on it before someone suggested it.
The locking ring doesn't really have that much pressure on it, it appears to be plastic. If you get all the trash out of the groove and the tool is almost bottomed out, it's unlocked. Even the cheapo plastic tool works ok. Pull and wiggled till your blue in the face and it still won't come out though. I've done a a few now and have a couple of "favorite" wood pieces to use if it comes up again. oh, keep your mouth closed, trans fluid tastes awful! (Drain pan, eye protection also)
Thanks. I will let you know what I come up with and if I have anymore questions. I really didn't think this would be the hardest part about doing the work on this thing.... hopefully this is the worst of it.
It's one piece our trucks have in common with a Cadillac. It was pointed out to me by an engineer that the fitting is designed for quick, solid assembly when the vehicle was built, NOT as a convenience for mechanics making repairs. I said "I know that's right".
Here's a pic of the inside, as you can see the lock is very close to the outside of the fitting:
It's one piece our trucks have in common with a Cadillac. It was pointed out to me by an engineer that the fitting is designed for quick, solid assembly when the vehicle was built, NOT as a convenience for mechanics making repairs. I said "I know that's right".
Here's a pic of the inside, as you can see the lock is very close to the outside of the fitting:
Rusty is could be good to verify that it's the exact same part as in the Caddy. Then the
next question is can we get our hands on them or are they in the same boat?
mwoolard1912 When you used penetrating oil did you wait and then flush it out after giving it
some time to loosen all the crap up? You may have to flush it a few times to get all the grit out.
It only takes a tiny bit to snag on something and hold the tube in place. Also don't remove both
fittings or you will be looking for a new radiator.
Rusty is could be good to verify that it's the exact same part as in the Caddy. Then the
next question is can we get our hands on them or are they in the same boat?
mwoolard1912 When you used penetrating oil did you wait and then flush it out after giving it
some time to loosen all the crap up? You may have to flush it a few times to get all the grit out.
It only takes a tiny bit to snag on something and hold the tube in place. Also don't remove both
fittings or you will be looking for a new radiator.
I sprayed some WD40 first then I ended up using some PB Blaster and let that sit for quite a while. I then sprayed it out with Brake Cleaner per another post i had read and blew it out with an air hose. I actually did all the steps multiple times. It looks pretty clean but of course you cannot see in it very far.
I have not removed anything from the radiator. I read elsewhere that you could take them off one at a time but I didn't want to do that unless it was the only thing left for me to do. So if I do have to go that route then it is ok to remove them one at a time as long as you replace the one before you take the other off? Again, last resort but if it doesn't pry loose soon I am gonna be beating my head against the wall.
Sounds workable.
The reason for only one at a time there is a gasket on the inside that can
fall even with just one out and if you have both out you can drop the cooler
down and then it time for new.
Sean, the Caddy reference I read more than once but I don't know for sure. I did try to find replacements with no luck but someone posted a possible source here on FTE. I would have to search for it. I have a couple decent ones in my parts box right now. Of all the stuff I've done on 6.0 Superduty's, the first time messing with these was without a doubt the biggest PITA. I'm not a guy who usuialy pounds and pries on stuff and I'll take apart things I don't need to to keep from doing that. These things can require unreasonable force to get out.
Finally got them. Thanks for the advice. I fixed a board for the passenger side and then tapped on it a little before I tried it. Popped right out. Driver side was a different story, tried several times using the same method as the passenger side with no luck. Finally I had a moment of genius. I used to do a lot of construction work and I had forgotten I had a tubing flair kit. I got the clamp you put on the tube to hold it to flair it out. It had a 1/2" hole in it. I put it on the line behind the release tool and pushed it up against it. this helped hold the tool still while I pulled and / or pried on the line to get it loose. It also doubled as a handgrip to pull on it. I wiggled it a couple times and out it came.
If you happened to have one of these tools I would suggest it to anyone trying to get these things out. I think it would have saved me tons of time had I thought about it earlier.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
oh, keep your mouth closed, trans fluid tastes awful! (Drain pan, eye protection also)
. Thanks everyone!