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My neighbor brought his van to Jiffy Lube to have his auto trans flushed, . He said the put a tube down the filler tube that sucks and refills multiple times while the engine runs.
Anyone ever heard of this type of flush?
I don't see how it could work as good as draining out the of a disconnected line while refilling.
I don't know how it would clean the bottom of the pan or the filter. The media is very fine in the transmission filter and would have smaller particles lodged in it then what is in the bottom of the pan. I don't think a machine would back flush the filter, and even then it would leave dirt and clogged areas behind in the filter.
Would a person do an oil change, flush the old filter out, then put it back?
Here is my pan after I took it off.
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/WP_20141105_13_59_14_Pro.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/WP_20141105_13_59_14_Pro.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_20141105_13_59_14_Pro.jpg"/></a>
The media in the transmission filter is NOT very fine. The filter is good for the life of the transmission, it does not need to be changed. If there is enough debris in the filter to cause a problem it's because the transmission has already failed.
I've never heard of sucking it out of the pan and refilling. I think it's the next thing to useless.
There are cooler lines that work so well for this, and unlike this method you're sure to get almost all of the fluid the first time without mixing old and new. Seems like a convoluted way to do a half-assed job.
The pan holds 7 quarts or so, so if you pull that fluid, swap it, then do that 2-3 times it would be essentially clean. Easier for them than breaking 25 year old parts off a bellhousing or replacing lines and risking rupture of something they then have to replace. Everything is about speed at a "Jiffy Lube".
I do this with my Cherokee 2 quarts at a time every oil change via the AW4 drain bolt, and over 2 years the fluid was clean as a whistle. I was actually thinking of a way to do this myself for my new van with some large syringes. The only ones I could find were for enemas though, HAHA!!
Edit: holy crap that video is amazing. That thing is just to convince stupid capitalists to hire dumber workers when they can just buy a machine to do all the work for em. Probably for the guy who fills every transmission with that "XTF". ha.
There are cooler lines that work so well for this, and unlike this method you're sure to get almost all of the fluid the first time without mixing old and new. Seems like a convoluted way to do a half-assed job.
Yep!
Mark Kovolsky has authored a great article how to DIY this flush---I used it myself recently to huge success. A few others here have also learned this technique but after the first time you've learned just about all there is do it repeatedly without incident---and single-handedly at that!
It costs about $110 including new filter (not always needed though) and the peace of mind knowing WHO did the work and HOW it was done worth 5 times that amount.
Sadly my vehicles will NEVER see the inside of a Jiffy Lube or that ilk of gotcha auto "repair"---their main job is to create and inflate invoices to the customer--Tom's comments being 100% spot on.
I will have to check out Mark Kovolsky's article as when I did mine I did drain the converter but didn't flush the lines. I had over filled it by 1/2 quart so I did take a line loose and let it pump out the extra but since I had already ran the engine, the old fluid left in the lines had already mixed in..
I knew a guy who worked at a quick lube place, they used to refer to these type of services as a wallet flush.
But ya know----before I jumped in and DIY my quotes from somewhat trustworthy shops was in the $110-120 range----as I did mine it was just at $110 for fluid and new filter. The upside to DIY for me was using Motorcraft brand ATF whereas the shops used some sort of generic bulk ATF with an additive they claimed made it just the same as Mercon V.
No thanks on homebrew ATF--rather know what's circulating through my 4R70W.
I believe my 07 has the 4R75w..will this procedure work on it?
I can't think of any reason this would not work on any automatic transmission that has any kind of external cooler.
I did this on another vehicle that had a "failed" transmission. Burnt smelling, black fluid that looked like old engine oil. It was slipping badly once it got warm. Obviously, this transmission was done for, finished, kaput, no hope.
That was more than 30,000 miles ago, and it's still going strong. It's done some heavy towing in that 30,000 miles, too.
When I did the flush the transmission became like new, instantly.
Now, will I get another 50,000 out of it?
I don't know, but it's already bought me 30,000 trouble-free miles, so even if it dies tomorrow I call it a win.
I can't think of any reason this would not work on any automatic transmission that has any kind of external cooler.
I can. The majority of modern transmissions use some flavor thermostat to control flow to the coolers in order to maintain a more consistent temperature. The 6R80, 5R100, and 6R140 all have thermostats. You can't flush any of these without a heated flush machine.
~90% of the fluid flow never enters the cooler circuit on the above transmissions until they come up to temperature. For these you need to warm the transmission up to temperature and use a machine that pumps hot fluid back into the transmission. Otherwise the transmission will cool down with the room-temperature fluid, the thermostat will close, and you'll mix old and new fluid.
I don't know if the 4R75E has a thermostat or not, but I bet Mark does.
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