Alternator wiring
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Mark, if you're lucky enough to find one that still has the factory tag on it (yeah, right!) the engineering number will be D9TB 14305-BB.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
I wouldn't say he was running does yet but he was definetley looking. It's so warm here the rut hasn't fully kicked in. So far it's been kind of a sucky season. That actually was the first legal buck I've seen. I took a weeks vacation to try to get on a good one and luckily it paid off. Next week is the week to be in the stands at least here anyways.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
Well to add more mystery to my problems I left out I had a little lighting trouble on the way home. Keep in mind this was the first time I drove this thing at night. I only have a 6 mi drive between my house and our farm. In the last mi my headlights and tail lights started flashing mostly while on high beam I think. Once I would switch to low they would stay on a little longer. I was thinking I had a short somewhere but can't find anything. The orig headlight switch was kinda burnt smelling and had stuff oozing out so I replaced that before this. With no luck I decided to put the volt meter on the battery see what I'm getting since the art seems to squeal the belt a lot. I was getting like 14.8-15v. So I swapped regulators with a spare I had laying around and got 18v.....wow. Something's going on here and I suspect that's why my lights go out maybe I'm wrong.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
I believe the headlight switch has a built in circuit breaker. High voltage could cause high amperage and trip it out intermittently. Could be lots of things but a wire or ground fault is high on the list. Suggest you chase that burn't wire to source and also check grounds on the body/chassis. As a diagnostic running a ground wire from battery to a cleaned up area on the voltage regulator case may help.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
I think I may have fixed my wiring issues. I took that harness off and fixed the bad spots by cutting and soldering. I also did the ends and added the right plug off another harness that wasn't the right type for mine. I cleaned all the terminals and fired it up and much to my amazement the lights didn't pulse. Now my voltage with the lights on hangs right at 13.9 and about 13.7 without lights. My headlights stayed on the whole time too no kicking the breaker so far. Last electrical gremlin or I hope is my inst panel circuit seems to have a dead short in it.
Anybody know if the accelerator pivot piece is available? The piece I'm talking about is the plastic piece with 3 bolts going through it at the firewall. After investigating why the pedal feels weird I see the shaft is so crusty it seized in the plastic and now broke it from flexing to accelerate.
Anybody know if the accelerator pivot piece is available? The piece I'm talking about is the plastic piece with 3 bolts going through it at the firewall. After investigating why the pedal feels weird I see the shaft is so crusty it seized in the plastic and now broke it from flexing to accelerate.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,189
Likes: 5,793
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
I started to lol a few minutes ago and got distracted. I'm not sure exactly what it was called so that isn't helping. My buddy has a parts truck I been taking stuff off if this week for inventory. I might go check that out see if that one is good.
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