I did a road test today with about 5k in tow up and down some hills.

Created 6 psi. Max EGT 900, Max water temp 200, Oil pressure 28, 10 at idle. RPM 2700 No smoke even putting to the floor.

Couple of things I am concerned about.

I have a vibration at idle after I run it for awhile and loud in cab.

I can hear a knock or pop above the diesel clatter. I do not know what it is. HELP

Here is a video you can hear it near the front of the clip again around the end.

Road Test Video by hugh_turner1 | Photobucket

I hope it is not something mechanical I could not hear preturbo. I have drove it about 3 hours empty and about an hour with the 5k.

I will not be pulling anything until sometime next year after we get the camper. The PO put a Jasper in about 8 years ago. I know they can be good or bad. It looks like he pulled a fifthwheel

 

Doesn't sound good to me, sounded like it increased with rpm. Also sounded too deep to be a lifter or injector tick. My guess is rod knock but I'm not an expert. Search YouTube for rod knocks and see what you think. Oil pressure sounds a bit low, found another thread where pressure was 30-40 at 2100 rpm.

 

I was thinking possible wrist pin. I could not hear prior to turbo install.

 

I didn't hear anything particularly bad; not /tuned perfectly/, but not "fall apart tomorrow" bad.

It may just be the camera's microphone, but it sounds a little retarded to me.

I think the rattle/buzzing isn't an engine problem -- make sure your turbo isn't touching the cab, and there's nothing transmitting rattle to the cab.

I'd also crank the fuel screw way up; you've got an EGT gauge and a turbo, so you should be able to take as much fuel as your pump can put out once you get over the 2200-2400 mark. Above that, you may not have any smoke. I have a 110 and once I'm way up there, I don't see any smoke. Part of this is the pump fueling declines with rising RPMs, while more boost = more burning potential.

You will however have to learn how to keep out of the throttle until you get boost(giving it just enough to give power without smoke) lest you create a massive black cloud.

 

Mac

This is definitely a learning curve.

Do I need a timing light and adapter to adjust the timing? No I do not want it to roll coal. The only way I can test under load is to rent the car trailer from Uhaul that can get expensive at 70 a day. Run empty EGT is around 350-450.

I think we are supposed to have rainy weather for the first part of the week once it dries out I turn the fuel up and look at the timing marks on the pump.

Cold start is a little bit longer now but I think it air intrusion, before I replace the orings. I crack each line and see if it is an injector knock.

Do you know if Jasper does a complete drop in? If so the pump and injectors are about 8 years old.

 

You can get /close/ to feeling what it feels like loaded by accelerating up a hill. Find a nice steep hill with a 45MPH or greater speed limit and use that. Just compare runs, adjust and see what happens.
Listen and feel.

I know it's a bit harder with an auto than a stick, but you should be able to get better.

Do you /need/ the timing light? I'm going to say no. You probably won't get things number-perfect, but you should be able to get pretty close. And a lot better than no adjustment at all.

Air intrusion... You should do two things: One, block off the return line from the filter head. There is a TSB out about this; it originally had a check-valve in it that is now 25+ years old and doesn't work.
Two, for added protection, put a check-valve of your own in the system just before the filter head. My trucks all have squeeze-bulbs(each having two inline check valves) between the low pressure fuel pump and the filter head. You can easily just remove the steel line, cut a few inches out of the middle, and splice it in with some fuel line. Worked great so far.

 

I replaced the check valve already. I got the new viton orings. While the truck was down and fuel system open I replaced the squeeze clamps with fuel injection clamps and disturbed the caps.

 

Which says that you've got a check-valve problem. If you have a good check-valve in the system, you can have one cap completely off, an O-ring missing, or a line simply disconnected(air can flow freely into it) and you will have zero air intrusion issues.
The return line system /should not/ have any affect on the fuel supply.

It does in some trucks, however, because:
1. Air gets into the fuel filter, which is at the highest point in the system.
2. The internal check-valves in the low pressure fuel pump are crude flappers and won't prevent slow leakage overnight
3. After a number of hours, the fuel filter drains back somewhat, with the supply line being mostly empty.
4. Try to start the truck -- it fires off on what's inside the IP -- runs out and dies. You then have to crank to suck fuel from the tank all the way up and into the IP, through the filter head.

The solution is simple - Prevent fuel from being able to drain out of the supply line to the filter head. If you can keep the fuel to that point, you won't have any more drainback issues no matter how many open lines, leaks or anything else you have in the return side of the system. It just plain won't matter.

What annoys me is that I see people spending money on an electric fuel pump, so they can prime the system before starting... All because they can't/won't just install a check-valve in the supply side of the system.

I'm not saying you have to do what I suggest. I'm saying that I've done it on three trucks, completely solved my problems; and it's worked for 4+ years now, through countless injector swaps, IP adjustment and reconnect, new lines, many sets of O-rings(All in the name of more power).

 

When the weather breaks I start tackling problems one at a time

 

i think that knock is something on the exhaust side hitting the cab. possibly the down pipe.

 

I will check that again