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Was replacing the rear window today in my 1995 F-350 and discovered some rust where the rubber window seal is held in place by the cab. Rust was caused by previous owner not having one of the screws for the third brake light in and water seeped in between light and opening in cab it sits in and just sat there and rusted it over time. Decided to do the right thing and not just slap the new window and weather seal in and have it "Out of sight out of mind" so I Sanded/Wirewheeled the rust away and now I'm debating what to use to paint over the fresh metal. The affected areas were all places that the rubber window seal will cover so not worried about color matching. Would just a rattle can of gray primer work good? Basically looking for suggestions on what will work/last the longest and stand the best chance of keeping the rust from reappearing. Thanks!
Looks nice and clean, but I would still treat with rust killer. For this, Jasco Prep and Prime available at Lowes etc, should be fine. Then paint with whatever you choose.
Did just that, going to hit it with a couple coats of whatever color rattle can I have laying around tommorow morning and reinstall the window later that night.
Did just that, going to hit it with a couple coats of whatever color rattle can I have laying around tommorow morning and reinstall the window later that night.
That ought to do it . sanding & wirewheeling along with rattle can paint .Wait .. what about the embedded rust ? Put what what ever you want on it . The rust is still there .
That ought to do it . sanding & wirewheeling along with rattle can paint .Wait .. what about the embedded rust ? Put what what ever you want on it . The rust is still there .
That's what the Prep and Prime is for. Same as Ospho, a rust converter.
I must be doing wrong , it has been my experience it ends up worse in a very short time. When I get time I'll post some pictures
I used black rustoleum spay paint. I did the whole frame of my 2004 Silverado with the brush on rustoleum and had great success with only hitting the frame with a wire wheel. Did the same for a landscaping trailer I restored 4 years ago again with great success. None of the paint is peeling or letting it rust further from underneath the paint. Never tried it with a primer base though so guess we'll see how this works out. Given the problem was caused by the previous owners negligence to fix the third brake light (which was letting the water in which caused the rust problem in the first place) and how I fixed the third brake light, I doubt I'll have any reoccurring rust issues in that spot because no more water is leaking onto it.
I used black rustoleum spay paint. I did the whole frame of my 2004 Silverado with the brush on rustoleum and had great success with only hitting the frame with a wire wheel. Did the same for a landscaping trailer I restored 4 years ago again with great success. None of the paint is peeling or letting it rust further from underneath the paint. Never tried it with a primer base though so guess we'll see how this works out. Given the problem was caused by the previous owners negligence to fix the third brake light (which was letting the water in which caused the rust problem in the first place) and how I fixed the third brake light, I doubt I'll have any reoccurring rust issues in that spot because no more water is leaking onto it.
If that was in my shop with the pinchweld cleaned like you did ,I would use Permatex Rust Inhibitor brushed on the cleaned area the primer ,then paint. You would be fine. The rust inhibitor is designed to neutralize the imbedded rust and works very well in my opinion. I don't know the performance of other rust products but if other folks claim they work then that's good enough for me.Gary
