F100 cab removal
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Ridgefield, Washington
F100 cab removal
My '55 has engine out, front clip off. Floor and front cowl on driver's side are rusted. I will never drive the truck in wet weather.
If this topic has been covered (I couldn't find it searching the forum) please direct me to the posts before spending your time answering my questions.
Questions:
1. Do I need to remove the cab to change the floor pans?
2. Is the cab removal/replacement very difficult (scale of 1-10)?
3. is replacement of floor pan very important if I am truly never going to
drive the truck in the rain or very cold weather?
If this topic has been covered (I couldn't find it searching the forum) please direct me to the posts before spending your time answering my questions.
Questions:
1. Do I need to remove the cab to change the floor pans?
2. Is the cab removal/replacement very difficult (scale of 1-10)?
3. is replacement of floor pan very important if I am truly never going to
drive the truck in the rain or very cold weather?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 803
Likes: 78
From: Lincoln CA
You can replace the floor with the cab on the frame or off the frame. The key is to brace the inside of the cab and door openings.
Cross bracing will keep the cab square. When you cut out the floor it would be easy for the cab to move. Brace the door openings to keep the door opening square as well. You want the doors to fit properly when done.
You don't have to replace the floor, but if it is rusted the structural integrity of the cab may be affected.
If welding is an issue, you can learn to weld or hire someone to weld for you. I replaced the center of the floor of my 51 F1 by cutting out the metal and bonding the new sheet metal to the old (good) metal with 3M panel adhesive.
Cut the new metal an inch larger than the old metal, then apply the panel adhesive and attach the two with a few sheet metal screws. When it dries you won't be able to separate the new from the old. Works real well. Weld areas that are structurally important.
There are a few posts in this forum. Do a search. Other members have used panel adhesive to bond sheet metal on their vehicles. Look into it as a alternative.
Good Luck
Dan
Cross bracing will keep the cab square. When you cut out the floor it would be easy for the cab to move. Brace the door openings to keep the door opening square as well. You want the doors to fit properly when done.
You don't have to replace the floor, but if it is rusted the structural integrity of the cab may be affected.
If welding is an issue, you can learn to weld or hire someone to weld for you. I replaced the center of the floor of my 51 F1 by cutting out the metal and bonding the new sheet metal to the old (good) metal with 3M panel adhesive.
Cut the new metal an inch larger than the old metal, then apply the panel adhesive and attach the two with a few sheet metal screws. When it dries you won't be able to separate the new from the old. Works real well. Weld areas that are structurally important.
There are a few posts in this forum. Do a search. Other members have used panel adhesive to bond sheet metal on their vehicles. Look into it as a alternative.
Good Luck
Dan
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 191
From: Wharton, PA
1. Do I need to remove the cab to change the floor pans?
They can be replaced with cab installed but with cab off you have better access.
2. Is the cab removal/replacement very difficult (scale of 1-10)?
I removed the cab from my truck by myself with no help. I jacked the truck up as high as I could, and removed the 4 mount bolts. I then attached a cable that went thru cab and over the rafters in garage to a come-a-long. I then dropped the frame out from under the cab then used come-a-long to lower cab onto a dolly I made out of pallets and 4 by 4's. (I have since bought a electric hoist!)
3. is replacement of floor pan very important if I am truly never going to
drive the truck in the rain or very cold weather?
In my opinion...if it's rusted...repair it!
Take a look at the progress pics I have posted in my albums. My cab was a rusted nightmare. Before I started I had absolutely no welding experience. My welding work may not win any awards, but it works for me. Bracing and cross bracing is a must to keep everything aligned.
They can be replaced with cab installed but with cab off you have better access.
2. Is the cab removal/replacement very difficult (scale of 1-10)?
I removed the cab from my truck by myself with no help. I jacked the truck up as high as I could, and removed the 4 mount bolts. I then attached a cable that went thru cab and over the rafters in garage to a come-a-long. I then dropped the frame out from under the cab then used come-a-long to lower cab onto a dolly I made out of pallets and 4 by 4's. (I have since bought a electric hoist!)
3. is replacement of floor pan very important if I am truly never going to
drive the truck in the rain or very cold weather?
In my opinion...if it's rusted...repair it!
Take a look at the progress pics I have posted in my albums. My cab was a rusted nightmare. Before I started I had absolutely no welding experience. My welding work may not win any awards, but it works for me. Bracing and cross bracing is a must to keep everything aligned.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
All good info...I will add that the rust you see now is just the tip of the iceberg, more lives in areas that you can't see. If you have the room and the skills, pull the cab and do the job right...you will never regret it later. As for crossbracing, I will respectfully disagree on how important that is...if you can use a tape measure then you don't need crossbracing. I have done extensive metalwork on many F100 cabs and I have found that they are not all that square from the factory to begin with and that measuring diagonals and door jambs before welding ensures a quality job.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 459
Likes: 5
From: Buffalo NY
If you leave the cab on just be careful about your fuel tank when cutting/grinding/welding. There is a thread just a few pages back about cab lifts and the various ways different members used to remove the cab. I wouldn't say its hard.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
I removed my cab (doors off) with a cherry picker and 2x4 through the left to right door opening. By myself.
No probs.
No probs.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 0
From: Clitherall, MN.
I might add that making sure the doors fit right is another thing to consider. The extra cab I bought was a little out of whack so before cutting the floor out I braced it. Used my floor jack to tweek it this way and that so the doors were good. Don't want to go through all that work and then have more issues to deal with. That was my first time doing anything like that and wanted to be extra cautious. Tubing was about 30 bucks . Did mine with the cab off on a dollie. Worked great, Roll it out of the way when your'e not working on it.
I replaced my floor rocker to rocker as well as the toe board. Good luck.
I replaced my floor rocker to rocker as well as the toe board. Good luck.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Couple additional questions:
1. Except for the added weight would it be better to leave the doors on to stay
straight?
2. Regarding the rear cab bolts - is it best to remove the frame connection bolts or
the bolts that are accessible through the holes on the back of the cab?
3. Is removing the filler pipe hose clamp on the gas tank all that has to be done to lift the cab away from the tank?
1. Except for the added weight would it be better to leave the doors on to stay
straight?
2. Regarding the rear cab bolts - is it best to remove the frame connection bolts or
the bolts that are accessible through the holes on the back of the cab?
3. Is removing the filler pipe hose clamp on the gas tank all that has to be done to lift the cab away from the tank?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 0
From: Clitherall, MN.
When I got my cab the doors were on it. After tweeking the cab so they fit right and braced I took them off. I ended up rolling mine onto it's back quite a few times. Not sure about the tank question but I think I would take the cab mounts off of the cab if your going to put it on wheels. Some of the other guys could probably offer better advice. That's just how I did mine.
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