I'm going to replace the cables on my truck. They keep corroding and it's time to upgrade. What gauge do you guys go with? I'm not running any heavy electronics, I upgraded to 130 amp 3G alternator, might run one or two amps at some later time for my stereo.

also, do you guys use crimp battery terminals, or do you use the solder on connection?

 

crimp. Genuinedealz.com is a great place for quality, but affordable marine grade terminals and cable, napa or carquest can also make the cables for you. I'd go up a size from whatever the stock cables were. my stock cables were 2/0 power, 1/0 ground, I went up on the ground size to 2/0 to match the power cables. you can get a hammer crimper for $20.

 

100% Agree!!!!

 

I replaced both my cables with Motorcraft replacements & bought an Optima. They are 9 years old & look brand new. Its the battery, not the cables.

 

I know its the battery, however my cables have gone to hell. And you can't find original Motorcraft cables for a 94 F350 with a 460 anymore

 

It sure as hell is the cables!

Auto manufacturers treat copper wire as if it were a precious metal and have always used the bare minimum gauge size they can get away with and use chassis steel for much of the return path. Barely adequate when new after several years they are passing nowhere near the voltage and current required.

Hot start difficulties for example (typical with headers) are often remedied with increasing cable size.

 

I'm looking at Horizon Ford (sponsor) it ain't cheap.

1994 FORD F-350 Parts - WWW.HORIZONPARTSGUY.COM

Discontinued, but available looks like.

 

LOL. You can buy a new battery for that price $$

 

You can roll yer own, for example here -http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com

Or visit your friendly welding supply or maybe a trucking garage and have them make them up for you.

 

I make my own out welding cable and solder on eyelets and clamps. Not nesscarily cheap but work very well

 

Well said, I agree 100%!!

Hate how they cheap out on wiring. You're already working with a wimpy 12 volts, one little bit of corrosion and it's play time for the electrical gremlins.

When they went from 6V to 12V they should have just gone straight to 24V or better yet 48V systems instead. Less current for any given power consumption vs. 12V systems so those cheap dinky wires would have been acceptable then. But then again I also think houses should be wired 240V 3 phase or better yet 480V 3 phase so I may be just a bit biased in favor of more voltage instead of more current.

I usually use 2/0 for battery cables and for bonding from block to frame and frame to chassis. I've given up on regular battery terminals and now crimp regular copper lugs on the ends of my cables, seal the crimp to prevent water intrusion, then use a marine starting battery and connect the cable lugs right to the screw terminals with wing nuts. I don't care what the marine industry or anybody else claims, the tried and true wing nuts are safe if you check them regularly. I still use them on my boat too.

 

I also made my own of of welding cable and solder lugs/eyelets. I also use heat shrink at all of soldered joints. This made a hugh difference for hot starting.

 

Home made, factory made, however made: