Banjo bolt in front and a hex headed plug in the back for the fuel, it's a dead head... I would think, based on "you can compress air but not fluid" that a schrader wasn't needed.

 

Did you install the filter on the base when you swapped the filter on the HFCM? IIRC you can't just put the filter in the HFCM and then screw the cap on.
Also, be absolutely sure the cap is bottomed out, use the correct size socket and torque it to specs. Cap HAS to be bottomed out or it won't open the valve completely.
No need to bleed these systems in the traditional sense. I have read somewhere that there are plugs at the back of the heads but nobody has ever replied that doing this made any difference or that they actually tried doing it. My guess would be that these plugs are a real bear to get at to begin with.

Durr..........I just read your post Randy, concerning the rear bolts. (facepalm)

 

Curious if you have a way to check the fuel pressure? It can be done at the upper bowl, there is a plug there that can be tapped into, think it's a 5mm or 6mm plug, not hard to get at. Would be a good time to do a blue spring update as well since your going to have some fuel spilled anyway.
Just be sure to crack the cap first.

 

As was said here, I'd make dang sure the batteries are fully charged before you try cycling the key again. There is just no sense frying your FICM over this, but if you do I know a guy LOL.

Seriously, though, just get your batteries re-charged before you do much else. Then, with the charger still connected and all filters re-installed, I'd turn the key to the ON position, wait 30 seconds, turn the key off, and repeat three times (similar to what you'd do when you change filters).

Doing this should purge the air out of the lines and get it to re-start presuming that your entire issue is running out of fuel. Depending on how 'bad' the loss of fuel/entrance of air pockets is, it may take some time cranking to get things going again (just don't kill your starter in the process of trying, either!).

I've learned not to trust my fuel gauge. If I ever get down to 1/4 tank, I am in near-panic mode trying to find a station to fill up.

If you don't yet have gauges, we carry the aforementioned Scan Gauge II already programmed for the 6.0 at ScanGaugeII.

If the wallet can handle the extra hit, though, we much prefer the Edge Insight CTS and now CTS2 - Edge Products. The Insight offerings can not only show you 10 or 12 readings simultaneously depending on the model (over the four that the Scan Gauge can concurrently display), but they also beep at you when bad things are happening (so that you don't have to 'notice' something wrong) and even alert you if there is an issue with a particular parameter you AREN'T presently monitoring. Pretty way cool.

Of course, the fact that the Edge gauges support auxiliary toys, err...gauges, such as exhaust gas temp probes, fuel pressure, turbo timers, etc is a solid bonus as well.

 

The motor will not run without a filter in the engine fuel filter. The stem the filter mounts on is a shutoff valve. You either have to have a filter installed or remove the stem and install no filter. If a filter is twisted or crushed during installation, it will not open the valve. Filter must be snapped into the cap, inserted on the stem and then screw cap down until tight. I run my rig with an AD2 fuel pump and no engine filter.

Ed

 

Self purging

 

Good to know I'm not alone

 

Rule of thumb,1/2 tank is a empty tank. I have never ran out of fuel

 

Thanks for all the helpful information guys. I'll relay all this information to the guy who is actually in the same state as the truck. He said he checked for the infamous 48 volts on the ficm and it was there. Batteries are charged finally and he should be back over tomorrow to try it out. I hope this works out because we soon as I get back to va I have to head to Ohio! Good times.

 

*Update*
So my buddy is still yet to really take a good gander at this thing between the fuel pressure and all. I haven't read back through some of this to refresh my memory so does anyone think a good scan tool like torque pro would be beneficial in this instance? If not what can anyone recommend. I'm finding its hard to troubleshoot this from 1000 miles away..

 

A decent scanning device is a must have if you plan to work on your truck (or pretty much any modern vehicle).

Some info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

 

Another useless update. So I've gotten the vehicle shipped to ohio where I need it to be. But, before I moved it I got it to start, if you can really call it that. It ran really rough and I'm guessing it was only running on a few cylinders. Tried to give it just a hair of fuel and it died out. Haven't gotten it started since. Trying to get a hold of a fuel pressure testing gauge, but everywhere I go to rent one says specifically not to use on diesels. Is there some magical tester just for diesels or will those run of the mill testers work?

 

Does anybody know if torque pro will provide live data such as Hi pressure oil pressure, fuel, amongst the many other sensors with data available?

 

The tech folder has a lot of good info that might help. I personally have a scan guage but i hear the torque pro app is pretty good too for live info. You' ll have to either make a feul pressure set up or spend a pretty penny on the edge cts. Heres a link to making it in the tech folder.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12858548
Look in youtube for diesel tech ron and he has a good video for learning a little about the fuel pressure. Hope this helps.
Tim

 

Yes, I did read the tech folder on the scan tools available!e, but it doesn't really go into detail about the torque pro app.

Also, I cracked the fitting where a pressure gauge would be installed and completely removed it. Didn't get but a drop or two of fuel. Makes me think I'm on the road to replacing a fuel pump. Picking up a pressure gauge that hopefully has the right fitting in itto check the pressure. Finding that metric to standard pipe thread fitting is turning out to be a PITA.