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You wont find too much about the scan tools in the tech folder i dont think but you can do a search and it should turn up a lot of threads on them. Persoanlly, I use a scanguage II. It can show up to 4 different readings at once and it wont break the bank. You can get one pre programmed from ficmrepair.com for around 160 I think. Not sure on the price there but advance auto parts, autozone both carry it for that price but not programmed. Its not hard to program it though. I think the torque pro one is cheaper but I really cant tell you anything other than that about it.
As far as the fuel press guage, heres the one Im looking at. White MaxTow 100 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge It looks like it come with everything you need for about 89 bucks.
Well, got out there this morning, and I'm reading 55 psi of fuel pressure when the key is on. I'm assuming that there is like30 second time out for the fuel pump if the pcm senses that the engine doesn't start? after about 30 seconds the pressure drops to basically nothing. Waiting on the batteries to charge some to start reading some voltages. got down in the 20s here last night, and as if my batteries aren't already struggling, killed them further.
Well, got out there this morning, and I'm reading 55 psi of fuel pressure when the key is on. I'm assuming that there is like30 second time out for the fuel pump if the pcm senses that the engine doesn't start? after about 30 seconds the pressure drops to basically nothing. Waiting on the batteries to charge some to start reading some voltages. got down in the 20s here last night, and as if my batteries aren't already struggling, killed them further.
it's normal for the pump to shut off after about 30 seconds if the engine isn't started. The other thing about your fuel pressure is that it needs to stay at 45+ psi at wide open throttle for your pump and/or regulator to be considered good. Anything below that and you're doing injector damage.
it's normal for the pump to shut off after about 30 seconds if the engine isn't started. The other thing about your fuel pressure is that it needs to stay at 45+ psi at wide open throttle for your pump and/or regulator to be considered good. Anything below that and you're doing injector damage.
Thanks for the info. I can not check whether its staying above 45ile running, until I can find out whats keeping the engine from even starting. my next best guess is either something in the hpop system or the ficm circuits. haven't decided which way to go yet. still waiting on the batteries to get some more juice.
so ive been doing some research and a lot of people have told me to unplug the ipr valve on the back of the driver side head, and try to start it, and if it starts the valve is the culprit. is this an accurate test, and will it damage anything to perform this?
well, disconnected the ipr valve, and what I found was the two wires going to it completely bare. disconnected it, but I didn't get any light off from it being disconnected. no black smoke, absolutely nothing. I'm really at a loss from here guys. does anyone have any other suggestions?
ok, so ipr pigtail has been repair, plugged back in, and no dice. I took a look in the tech folder about ficm testing, I have the four screw type under the little cover, and tested out at a solid 48.2 with KEOO, 48.2 with engine cranking, so I have faith that the ficm is still good. ive been reading up about the icp sensor, which from what I can tell should be under the turbo, but I have looked all over the place, and I don't for the life of me see anything back there except for the ipr valve. if I am wrong, somebody please correct me, because I'm still pretty well lost.
forward side of the intake on the drivers side, there is a sensor that is screwed into the intake, what sensor is this? my chiltons manual is useless to identifying this sensor
forward side of the intake on the drivers side, there is a sensor that is screwed into the intake, what sensor is this? my chiltons manual is useless to identifying this sensor
that's a great diagram but my description is a bit misleading after looking at that diagram, its just under the fuel bowl on top, I'm think what one of the sites google led me to was engine air intake sensor. I doubt its what is stopping my engine from running, but I noticed it after tracing some of the wires back, and its broken.
Anywho, I found that icp sensor, and damn is it a bear to get to. unplugged it, cranked it aaaaaaand still no start. I hate to say it but its sounding more like an HPOP every minute I stand out here and stare at this thing. without scan gauges, I'm still guessing at this point, but the troubleshooting ive done up to now is still suggesting it.
Ok just seen your posts and wish I had saw this sooner. You will need a blue tooth obd2 adapter and Torque Pro will show you ICP readings as well as IPR numbers and pretty well every other item people say to buy a scan gauge to monitor. You will need the Pro version and then just download the 6.0 gauge information then it’s a simple matter of putting the gauges you want on your screen. I would suggest you monitor your ICP pressure when you are cranking and see if it ever goes above 500 psi if it does not then that is the issue. I have had a truck die like you are talking about and it was the IPR valve that had went bad. Also on a side note the truck will never fire with the IPR unplugged because it will not build the necessary oil pressure.
crimson, thanks for the reply. I actually have an early model 03 6.0, the ICP is also under the turbo a little further back than the ipr valve is. I've tried cranking with each one unplugged, no joy. As far as torque pro goes, everything I read about it states that the Bluetooth obd II connector is required. do you know if typical auto stores like autozone, advance, oreilly's, napa carry the Bluetooth connector?
I saw that and just edited my post to reflect that. I do not know if the autoparts stores carry them but i know you can get one on amazon for about $20 and if you have a prime membership you can get it shipped with 2 day shipping for free.
No worries, thanks for the advice. I think I'm at the point where I cant do anything else until I put some kind of monitoring device on it. powerstroke parts are just too expensive to guess.
powerstroke parts are just too expensive to guess.
with that I agree 100%. Just so you know if you do have to get an IPR valve my local auto parts(oreilly's) store has them but they call them a fuel pressure regulator instead of an injector pressure regulator. They are sold as a BWD brand but you open the box and there is the motorcraft package
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