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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 12:29 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
I'd say you have some bad glow plugs. Also possible bad injectors or bad injector o-rings.
Glow plugs, UVC gasket and everything was replaced about 8 months ago. Even did the 50 cent mod. Only thing not replaced were injectors and I'm pricing them out now. Think I'm looking at around $2,800 with 800 core. Anyone know of a better deal or something that's possibly made for the ultra low sulfur diesel we HAVE to run. Because the research I've accumulated shows that when our 7.3 was made, the sulfur in our diesel was a lot higher of a rate, to lubricate the injectors through the cold weather, now the lack of sulfur has done a number on I'd say all stock injectors for these trucks. Damn EPA screwing us yet AGAIN
 
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 02:35 PM
  #47  
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Most diesel fuel in my area, which is right across the river from you, is supplied by one supplier for most fuel stations, and they run anywhere from 5% to 20% bio-diesel. In Ky, they are not required to tell you the exact amount. Anyhow, lubrication shouldn't be an issue. As for injectors, I had a guy install some swamps remans in one of my work trucks a few years ago. They were stock injectors. No complaints. I've put roughly 100,000miles on them.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #48  
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It's a four pager so, if you haven't replaced the glows. Just do it. It's a cheap and easy necessity with Motorcraft only.


Pull your fuel bowl heater plug despite anything. You don't need it and it solves a troubleshooting puzzle (Even though it works, and most are on they're way out, it is a possible power robber if It builds enough resistance until it finally craps).


Make sure your pcm is tight if you've ever had it out. Just a snuggle turn on the 10mm in the firewall.


Everything I glean from the posts are looking at bad connections or simple ignition failure.


When it runs "it runs well correct"


Denny
 
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 05:12 PM
  #49  
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Sorry, missed the G plugs.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 01:11 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by DieselDenny
It's a four pager so, if you haven't replaced the glows. Just do it. It's a cheap and easy necessity with Motorcraft only.


Pull your fuel bowl heater plug despite anything. You don't need it and it solves a troubleshooting puzzle (Even though it works, and most are on they're way out, it is a possible power robber if It builds enough resistance until it finally craps).


Make sure your pcm is tight if you've ever had it out. Just a snuggle turn on the 10mm in the firewall.


Everything I glean from the posts are looking at bad connections or simple ignition failure.


When it runs "it runs well correct"


Denny
You've brought a good point here. I did in fact have the PCM out to to sand and install the ts6. Never thought about it not being in all the way.. Maybe should start there and see what I find. I'll do that ASAP and let ya know what I find. You say I should just remove the fuel bowl heater all together or replace it? Temps in my area get pretty low at times id hate to remove something that could potentially make my situation worse. Thanks for all the info!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 01:29 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Burroughs
...You say I should just remove the fuel bowl heater all together or replace it? Temps in my area get pretty low at times id hate to remove something that could potentially make my situation worse.
Under $40 to replace the heater with a new design, much less prone to shorting out. I replaced mine and plan to keep it.

Don't really see a good reason not to, IMHO
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 06:59 AM
  #52  
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Okay boys. I've done everything possible. Nothing fixes it. Nothing can even read the check engine light. I am so ******* done with this truck. Listing it for sale after work. I am now 45 minutes late because of it and possibly going to lose my job. Over an hour and half to get it started?!?! Uhhhh no I'm going to just go get a new truck that actually starts. Idc if I have to sell this for scrap metal, I'm done. Thanks for everyone's help. I'm just so fed up its not worth my effort anymore. It makes my kids late for school, me late for work, and my fiancé has to do everything in the mornings because the second I roll out of bed its straight to the truck. Not worth it anymore.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:21 PM
  #53  
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Burr,


I understand where you are. I also agree that there is a means to an end. I can't recommend any repair answers but I will tell you that divorcing a problem vehicle for whatever means possible is better than divorce.


Do what you gotta do to make home,,,,, HOME and move forward. Sorry about your loss but it is a 1999. I have the same truck, but when the axe falls....I'll jerk one.


Good call my man.




Denny
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 04:32 AM
  #54  
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I am so sorry to see it get this far. That is one thing about these aging trucks, one pretty much needs a backup vehicle on hand for when things go sideways. Without that, and the means/time to tinker with them, you would be better off with something newer.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 05:47 AM
  #55  
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Wow, I didn't imagine that I would have any support at all on selling my ol girl, but I do appreciate everything you all have helped me with and yeah, at the end of the day she's a 99. Definitely the coolest truck I've ever owned and because of all its issues I have learned a lot about these old trucks. Can't fight that. Maybe one day down the road I'll be in a better position to own my own buckzooka like you rich! Listing it today for sale and I'll keep y'all updated on the new purchase. Again, thank you all so much.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 07:00 AM
  #56  
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That's one thing about the FTE brotherhood: We are not "Damn the torpedos! Full speed ahead!" We are pragmatic, and want to help the owner in anyway we can... even if it means losing the presence of our new friends. I completely get the idea of "Ooops, this is more than I'm prepared to deal with right now." I have been there many times. I am just lucky enough to be at a point in my life where this hobby can be "endured" without mortal injury to my wallet, my career, or my relationships. Believe me... it wasn't like this before, and I've had to make that very same choice. Usually it was with boats before... the OTHER Break Out Another Thousand vehicle.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 07:06 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Burroughs
Wow, I didn't imagine that I would have any support at all on selling my ol girl, but I do appreciate everything you all have helped me with and yeah, at the end of the day she's a 99. Definitely the coolest truck I've ever owned and because of all its issues I have learned a lot about these old trucks. Can't fight that. Maybe one day down the road I'll be in a better position to own my own buckzooka like you rich! Listing it today for sale and I'll keep y'all updated on the new purchase. Again, thank you all so much.
Always do what's best for you and your family. If it's too much money, too much stress, or you aren't enjoying it any more, pass it along to the next fellow and get something that better suits your needs at this time

Good luck with your sale!

ETA: Well said, Rich...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 08:28 PM
  #58  
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Wow, sad to hear your selling your girl, if I was close to you I would grab the truck my self and would drop a buck$nuke on her and figure out how to get it working and let you use the Mule while I'm dropping buck$bombs all over to make it like new...course I have 3 other emergency backup cars to fall on...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 07:15 PM
  #59  
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Well boys, I've decided to keep the old truck, I've found a better way around the starting issues in the morning. Right now I'm at another issue.

My turbo pedestal has started leaking oil from what I think is the plunger on the EBPV. So I found a guy with a bus with the 7.3 motor, I found that it has the 38r turbo where as mine has the 38? either way now I have the gtp38R and its pedestal I'm trying to use to replace mine.

I've known it to be done but I haven't looked into it personally. My biggest question is that the 38R turbo doesn't have a wastegate nor does it have the wastegate housing on the hot side. So now my truck will not have a wastegate, will this propose a issue with any sensors and what do I do with the little plastic hose?

Also, what all is different between my late model 99 turbo and the "bus turbo"
The cold side seems almost exactly the same and the hot side difference is that mine has 1.00 A/R and the bus turbo has 1.15 A/R. this may just be a dumb question but what does the "A/R" stand for and what kinda difference am I going to see? With and without tow
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 07:33 PM
  #60  
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The 38R should have a waste gate, mine does. It does not have the EBPV. As for the AR, I don't know. The 38R will spool faster, and get you more boost. It is louder though.
 
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