When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What you can do is set up a Youtube account if you don't already have one. Then copy paste your video to here. I would like to watch it to get a better idea.
So was I, when my truck did the same thing while hooked up to Torque Pro. That is precisely why I asked the question. Mine worked fine until one day when I changed a PID. After that, everything was weird - including the WTS flashing off and on and the rough run when connected. I stripped Torque Pro out, did my OS updates, re-installed TP, did those updates, then programmed my PIDs again. It's been all good since.
Now... Car Gauge Pro was loaded and I did a buzz test. Things didn't work out so well there - it was like the truck was out of time after that. I fired up my AE to do a KOEO test, and it cleared whatever the hell was going on in there.
This is all assuming you have a proper OBDII adapter (I feel I have a high-quality one for $100). There is no telling how a Chinese "clear blue" knock-off will behave for you.
Okay, I really am so sorry but I'm the definition of a "shlum" on these engines. If you could just add in a note at what all the abbreviations that you used above? Like I'm just not sure what "PIDS" are and KOEO test? "AE" "OS" updates? Re installed TP? Haa I'm so bad, but believe me I am here and willing to learn. I've taken my truck to a so called "diesel mechanic" one time and got burned for over 3,500 worth of work when all it needed was a water pump, they damaged my harmonic balancer when takin it off and charged me for it, also went and replaced things I didn't tell them too and on top of it all it came back with a non work of driver window. Then they tried to tell me that I needed to replace my column, power steering pump and a/c condenser all because I had loose steering, my dad found a new column for 100 bucks and installed it less than an hour and fixed every issue I had. I HATE shops. My buddy quit working for Monroe cause they told him to ticket EVERY SINGLE CAR at least $1,500 in repairs, weather they needed it or not, that was their goal... Needless to say my buddy walked out when they tried to charge an older lady $2,000 for a simple alignment and a frozen caliper on a 99 focus.. He then proceeded to have the older lady give him a ride home where he did the work for only $100 and sent tinge sweet old thing on her way. Long story short, I don't trust shops, I trust all you guys I can't see over someone 10 inches from my face. Also I know random but the truck also throws the "water in fuel" every now and then when it has its problems starting.
Any time you connect hardware to the OBDII port, you are listening in on and talking to the Power Control Module - and all the other electronics in the truck. With that in mind, you want to make sure the OBDII adapter (the part you plug in) is of the quality to make good connection between the truck and the device you use for listening and talking. You don't want an OBDII adapter like an old man. Say the wife (portable device) says to the old man (adapter) "Yer late." You don't want his reaction to be "Don't tell me when to pee!"
Problems can arise in the portable device as well. You have an OS (operating system like Android or Apple) and it goes through regular updates. In kind, the App you download to talk to the truck goes through updates. If the updates get out of sync, this can cause errors in programming the gauges. When this happens, the safest course of action is to strip out the application and update your Operating System. Then... install the app fresh, and conduct any updates on that as well. Once you have a fresh install with updates, you move on to the PIDs.
Parameter IDentification - PID. It's engineer-speak for the thing you are trying to read from the truck, like boost or Engine Oil Temperature (EOT).
Now... to my experience with issues like this: I tried to tinker with my Engine Oil Temperature gauge (EOT PID) on Torque Pro (TP), and it made my truck flash the Wait To Start light, run weird, and try to stall. This was after that gauge worked just fine before. I removed the gauge from my screen and all was well. As soon as I tried installing EOT again, WTS and weird running resumed. One might give up and go without the EOT, but this is a pretty important PID to ignore. That's when I came up with the clean slate approach... and it worked for me, and a few other members here who had the same issue.
Now... if you are trying to read something that doesn't exist on the OBDII port of our 7.3L, like spark advance or Engine Coolant Temperature - there's no telling what will happen. This is akin to telling the old man to pee in the corner of a round room... confusion will ensue. The best approach here is to read up on what we can read on the truck and what we can't.
Going ***** Nilly and downloading every OBDII app on the net will find where the wild bunch ran amok. One good example of this is Car Gauge Pro: It is very powerful - it can send commands to the Power Control Module, like a buzz test (operate all the solenoids with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO). Unfortunately, I suspect there is more to his than just saying to the computer "Buzz, ya bum." I have clues (but I have no verification) that there should be a more intricate set of instructions to put the truck in test mode, then return the truck to run mode. Without that command to return to run mode, you try to start the truck in test mode and weird things happen. I suspect this only because I had something like this happen to me with Car Gauge Pro.
When things go sideways with my app experiments, I have a "bargain" (but proper) licensed software (AutoEnginuity) on my laptop, with a wired OBDII adapter. I use my Android and Torque Pro with a Bluetooth OBDII adapter for daily monitoring and logging, but I use AE with the wired OBDII adapter when it comes time to troubleshoot the truck. When Car Gauge Pro put my truck in some weird mode, I hooked up AE and ran what is called a KOEO test (Key On Engine Off). This test checks a number of sensors in the truck while it's not running and operates a few items, to make sure all is in order before starting. Once the test is completed, everything is restored to run mode. If the truck passed the test, the truck should be clear to start. If it fails the test, AE will show the Ford code for where the problem is - but more troubleshooting is needed to find the root cause.
Now.... PIDs and a portable device with apps. You need a reliable source for how to program these if you are not tech savvy enough to come up with your own programming. Even with a list chiseled in stone, some of these trucks differ a little, and all of our portable devices/OBDII adapter/app combinations differ a lot. When programming a new PID, it's crucial to hit the "test" button before you save it.
For those with ScanGaugeII and the like, I have no direct experience with these - and others will need to guide you through this.
Honestly the first thought that popped in my head is the ignition switch (the electrical part of it) may have a problem. It sounds as though the ignition isn't getting a good contact.
Now this issue could be anywhere down the ignition line, down to the PCM. It could be a bad connection at a module or the ignition itself or any of the connectors in between.
One other thing that is a possibility would be the battery connections, not so much at the battery themselves but at the relay/solenoids on the passenger fender as well as all the bare wire grounds from stuff like the passenger side head to the cowl, from the frame to the body under the passenger floor board, and the like.
Another thing that would cross my mind is a faulty module itself. Like the PCM or IDM or even something like the power saver relay in the cluster.
Electrical issues suck.
I guess I would start off by simply jiggling the ignition switch and then moving on to the wire harnesses and make sure all connections are clipped tight.
Okay, to answer your questions, sorry,, I'm tryi to get on here as often as possible and to reply to everyone I'm just a young fella with a full time job and 2 kids so my life is hecktic at the moment. Believe me everyone, I appreciate all the help you all have given me so so so much! This forum has been a life saver for me in the passed.
But yes, ignition had been a big issue a few months ago. When I got the truck I had to replace both batteries and the alternator, a few months my truck ran into the same "no juice" problem, it would just start fine but would not rebuild juice enough to start the truck again, so I went with replacing one battery, that fixed it,, for a week. So I replaced the other, fixed it for a week (batteries were under 1year warranty) problems arised again. So I decided it's time to replace that old dirty starter, fixed the problem,, for about a week. I was so confused, this alternator is still "new" wth is my issue? Had to go to ford for the factory dual battery wringi harness that goes from a relay by the fender, to main battery, over to secondary batter, down to bolting onto the block, back to the starter and a ground wire. That big piece of wire costed me $215 didn't fix my issue tho, I was certain it was a bad connection because the big main connector was so old you couldn't tighten it. Well, turned out the alternator I got 6 months prior was at fault and it got replaced for free by Smyth automotive. When I need a part I can look all day long, or I can go to Smyth, they always have what I need and always help me out, even when their part is faulty and I cam back 6 months later without a receipt. Another long story short, everything has been replaced down this road besides the ignition itself on the steering column. But I did have one weird experience with it a while ago, I got back from getting my morning coffee and the truck wouldn't turn off, turned the key back pulled it from the ignition and it literally was still running, put it back in and out still running, so I decided to do what I hated to do, stall it out. Did that. Went inside did a little research, went to see if the problem persisted and nothing. Hasn't done it since. This truck has left me questioning a few things but never left me on the side of the road! Hope everyone had a good work week!
Any time you connect hardware to the OBDII port, you are listening in on and talking to the Power Control Module - and all the other electronics in the truck. With that in mind, you want to make sure the OBDII adapter (the part you plug in) is of the quality to make good connection between the truck and the device you use for listening and talking. You don't want an OBDII adapter like an old man. Say the wife (portable device) says to the old man (adapter) "Yer late." You don't want his reaction to be "Don't tell me when to pee!"
Problems can arise in the portable device as well. You have an OS (operating system like Android or Apple) and it goes through regular updates. In kind, the App you download to talk to the truck goes through updates. If the updates get out of sync, this can cause errors in programming the gauges. When this happens, the safest course of action is to strip out the application and update your Operating System. Then... install the app fresh, and conduct any updates on that as well. Once you have a fresh install with updates, you move on to the PIDs.
Parameter IDentification - PID. It's engineer-speak for the thing you are trying to read from the truck, like boost or Engine Oil Temperature (EOT).
Now... to my experience with issues like this: I tried to tinker with my Engine Oil Temperature gauge (EOT PID) on Torque Pro (TP), and it made my truck flash the Wait To Start light, run weird, and try to stall. This was after that gauge worked just fine before. I removed the gauge from my screen and all was well. As soon as I tried installing EOT again, WTS and weird running resumed. One might give up and go without the EOT, but this is a pretty important PID to ignore. That's when I came up with the clean slate approach... and it worked for me, and a few other members here who had the same issue.
Now... if you are trying to read something that doesn't exist on the OBDII port of our 7.3L, like spark advance or Engine Coolant Temperature - there's no telling what will happen. This is akin to telling the old man to pee in the corner of a round room... confusion will ensue. The best approach here is to read up on what we can read on the truck and what we can't.
Going ***** Nilly and downloading every OBDII app on the net will find where the wild bunch ran amok. One good example of this is Car Gauge Pro: It is very powerful - it can send commands to the Power Control Module, like a buzz test (operate all the solenoids with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO). Unfortunately, I suspect there is more to his than just saying to the computer "Buzz, ya bum." I have clues (but I have no verification) that there should be a more intricate set of instructions to put the truck in test mode, then return the truck to run mode. Without that command to return to run mode, you try to start the truck in test mode and weird things happen. I suspect this only because I had something like this happen to me with Car Gauge Pro.
When things go sideways with my app experiments, I have a "bargain" (but proper) licensed software (AutoEnginuity) on my laptop, with a wired OBDII adapter. I use my Android and Torque Pro with a Bluetooth OBDII adapter for daily monitoring and logging, but I use AE with the wired OBDII adapter when it comes time to troubleshoot the truck. When Car Gauge Pro put my truck in some weird mode, I hooked up AE and ran what is called a KOEO test (Key On Engine Off). This test checks a number of sensors in the truck while it's not running and operates a few items, to make sure all is in order before starting. Once the test is completed, everything is restored to run mode. If the truck passed the test, the truck should be clear to start. If it fails the test, AE will show the Ford code for where the problem is - but more troubleshooting is needed to find the root cause.
Now.... PIDs and a portable device with apps. You need a reliable source for how to program these if you are not tech savvy enough to come up with your own programming. Even with a list chiseled in stone, some of these trucks differ a little, and all of our portable devices/OBDII adapter/app combinations differ a lot. When programming a new PID, it's crucial to hit the "test" button before you save it.
For those with ScanGaugeII and the like, I have no direct experience with these - and others will need to guide you through this.
Where exactly do you live? I'm honesty considering taking a road trip one weekend, staying at a hotel and having you witness this for your own eyes and possibly have you run updates on my truck.. I am so far lost its not even funny. I'd be willing to pay you for your time and for the use of your highly intelligent equipment that includes picking your brain of all your knowledge! Haha but seriously if you aren't crazy far from Ohio it would be worth it to me to have a good set of eyes and ears. I love this truck, but I have never experienced issues like it has. At the same time I went from owning a 1995 4 cylinder Subaru to this 99 7.3 which is also shirt for "the beast from hell on wheels".
But say you're too far for me to drive, what app would you recommend me to download? I have an iPad and an iPhone so I'm looking for the best IOS application to reading these engines. Also, I know I also need to be getting a transmission temp gauge and pyro gauge, I had gotten the boost figured out(thanks to you and the wonderful people here at ford trucks) and went on to stiffening up my rear end cause my leafs snapped on a load. So I'm now getting back into the parameter monitoring of the engine. I know I have a long way to go but is it dumb of me to assume that one of these applications will read those parameters also? Again, thank you so much for all the help.
Also someone made mention of a YouTube account to post videos I know I have a YouTube account but unsure of login info and how to post anything but if anyone has Facebook they can look me up I'm from Cincinnati Ohio, Josh Burroughs, send me a message on their and I can send videos that way until I figure out YouTube. Gonna try right now on YouTube I'll update on that with my name or maybe name of the video? Idk how that works for YouTube so sorry.
...When the WTS light fires off while running, that can sometimes mean a momentary interruption in power to the PCM....
Originally Posted by Snowseeker
This all sounds electrical to me.
Honestly the first thought that popped in my head is the ignition switch (the electrical part of it) may have a problem. It sounds as though the ignition isn't getting a good contact....
Originally Posted by Burroughs
...But yes, ignition had been a big issue a few months ago.... ...everything has been replaced down this road besides the ignition itself on the steering column. But I did have one weird experience with it a while ago, I got back from getting my morning coffee and the truck wouldn't turn off, turned the key back pulled it from the ignition and it literally was still running, put it back in and out still running....
I think we're running out of questions here... and it's time to act. It could be a stuck relay, but it's more likely a bad ignition switch or wire on the steering column. If you take the cover off the steering column, you can test the continuity of the switch and inspect the wire that is riding along top of the column.
I live a few hours from the Pacific Ocean and the Canadian border, so I think a weekend drive from Ohio is out of the question. If you click the BEST link in my signature, you'll likely find somebody more in range that can help out. See? It's not a Tugly show... it's a collection of good folk with similar interests.
iOS has DashCommand. It will read some stuff you need, but it omits a PID or two that you want. It will get better - it has added stuff since it was introduced. Trans temp and boost should be in there, so there are two gauges you don't need to buy. I have dual pyros and a Fuel Pressure gauge - because the truck does not have these sensors from the factory at all.
I think we're running out of questions here... and it's time to act. It could be a stuck relay, but it's more likely a bad ignition switch or wire on the steering column. If you take the cover off the steering column, you can test the continuity of the switch and inspect the wire that is riding along top of the column.
I live a few hours from the Pacific Ocean and the Canadian border, so I think a weekend drive from Ohio is out of the question. If you click the BEST link in my signature, you'll likely find somebody more in range that can help out. See? It's not a Tugly show... it's a collection of good folk with similar interests.
iOS has DashCommand. It will read some stuff you need, but it omits a PID or two that you want. It will get better - it has added stuff since it was introduced. Trans temp and boost should be in there, so there are two gauges you don't need to buy. I have dual pyros and a Fuel Pressure gauge - because the truck does not have these sensors from the factory at all.
Okay, so I download he application, then I need to order a Bluetooth plug that will connect to Apple devises? I also have an android tablet with cellular data that could be used solely for diagnosis if here is a better application for it. I just prefer my iPad but it is needed for my kids. (They hate the android devise) so if you think of a better app that fits my situation please let me know! Also yes, I'd love to see the pacific but not under these circumstances😂
Back to making moves, my boost gauge is run to a pod on my column. I can post a pic but I'm sure you get the gist, it easily comes off because I ordered the pod for a manual tranny and they sent it for an automatic so you can imagine here is a big hole in the side for a shifter to come off the column
Okay so I used the link/tool you mentioned and I found someone in my city, how exactly do I get in contact with him? Here's his name that was on the map tappit01/chris from Cincinnati Ohio. Let me know if anyone knows how to find this guy!!!
What you can do is set up a Youtube account if you don't already have one. Then copy paste your video to here. I would like to watch it to get a better idea.
Okay so I did as you said, if you get on YouTube, I'm uploading 3 videos but one has so far successfully uploaded so I did a test search and if you type in "7.3 rough start josh Burroughs" it will be the video I uploaded then after the other two finish you can click on my name under he video and through "videos" you can find he other two. Try to watch all 3 cause the truck does different things every time. It never starts and jumps around the same. Sometimes really rough and some not so rough so try to watch all 3 again,,
Search YouTube for "7.3 rough start josh Burroughs"
Notice, how the "wait to start" light comes back on once the truck is already running. You can actually hear the engine hiccup just before the light come back on.
Not sure exactly why but it would do that. Hopefully somebody might have an idea.
Out of curiosity, have you tried unplugging the fuel bowl heater plug and try starting the truck. Maybe just maybe it's on it's way out and starting to slightly short things out. This is just an idea not sure if it is the issue but it is free and cannot hurt anything. Also notice how every time it hiccups the "water in fuel" light comes on. That is why I am thinking on pulling the fuel bowl heater plug.
Out of curiosity, have you tried unplugging the fuel bowl heater plug and try starting the truck. Maybe just maybe it's on it's way out and starting to slightly short things out. This is just an idea not sure if it is the issue but it is free and cannot hurt anything. Also notice how every time it hiccups the "water in fuel" light comes on. That is why I am thinking on pulling the fuel bowl heater plug.
Yes, I've noticed the hiccups and the wait to start light after its turned on, also I've noticed the water in fuel light, the first time I saw that I told my dad. He insisted their might be water in the fuel, so we got some thing that removes the water out it in and also we went ahead and replaced my in line fuel pump and filter, while I was in there I cleaned the fuel bowl. But put it back together ran fine, let it sit over night, same issue.
This has been happening for a few months now, always get me where I'm gong just sometimes not on time.. But if you remember me from last year I was trying to diagnose why my truck will not start when it's too cold out. If I don't plug it in on a real cold night it will not start until I plug it in and wait. Well this morning it was 43 degrees in Cincinnati and she had some trouble getting to the "rough start" I have. So I really need to get this figured out before the cold weather really hits and I get screwed another 20 minutes in the morning
That flashing gauge is the big clue. There is a splice in there that likely ties in with the ignition. It would not be unusual if the two issues are quite literally tied together. Follow the wire from the gauge and see what you find.
If I remember correctly, you get the truck going with Ether... and we all freak out about it.
Synthetic oil helps a lot with tired injectors on a cold truck, but not all the time. Sometimes the injectors are just tired.
Is anything plugged into the OBDII port in the video?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
