HELP HELP look tugly
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 2
From: North Lake Tahoe
I probably should have elaborated better but when I said notice the hiccuping and lights, I meant for the others on here to notice.
Might want to do what Tugly said and take a careful look at the wiring in that gauge.
When you worked on the fuel bowl did you ever change out the heating element or left it as is?
Might want to do what Tugly said and take a careful look at the wiring in that gauge.
When you worked on the fuel bowl did you ever change out the heating element or left it as is?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
That flashing gauge is the big clue. There is a splice in there that likely ties in with the ignition. It would not be unusual if the two issues are quite literally tied together. Follow the wire from the gauge and see what you find.
If I remember correctly, you get the truck going with Ether... and we all freak out about it.
Synthetic oil helps a lot with tired injectors on a cold truck, but not all the time. Sometimes the injectors are just tired.
Is anything plugged into the OBDII port in the video?
If I remember correctly, you get the truck going with Ether... and we all freak out about it.
Synthetic oil helps a lot with tired injectors on a cold truck, but not all the time. Sometimes the injectors are just tired.
Is anything plugged into the OBDII port in the video?
Lol No, it must of been some other diesel noob cause I would NEVER shoot my ol girl with ether. I get the feeling my injectors are wore out cause I've tried everything(besides ether)
Lastly, no nothing is plugged into the port. You may have mistaken me before, when I had the truck hooked up it was already "woken up" for the day, if you will. So this issue wouldn't of had anything to do with the truck dying while plugged in or. It starting at all, would it?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
I probably should have elaborated better but when I said notice the hiccuping and lights, I meant for the others on here to notice.
Might want to do what Tugly said and take a careful look at the wiring in that gauge.
When you worked on the fuel bowl did you ever change out the heating element or left it as is?
Might want to do what Tugly said and take a careful look at the wiring in that gauge.
When you worked on the fuel bowl did you ever change out the heating element or left it as is?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Synthetic 5W-40. The low bottom number makes the oil "thin" enough to make the engine easy to start when cold. Synthetic is something like 2-3 times the cost of dead dinosaurs, so you have to really want to start the truck in the cold. Rotella T6 is what I would call the bottom rung of the synthetics, others will disagree. My injector guy recommends Mobile 1.
If the young'ns like to play with the iPad while you're driving, the Android might be the call. My favorite app is Torque Pro, until something better comes along.
I saw the needle on the gauge drop and climb in the video. That's power, not the backlight. You have a loose power connection to the gauge, and a WTS that flakes out. The most common cause of the WTS re-firing is unstable power to the PCM. Two things within inches of each other with unstable power implies they are connected. I'm not a diesel mechanic by trade - this is purely a hobby (with marginal competence). I am a technology troubleshooter by trade - and my employer feels I'm competent enough at that to keep reloading the Buck$Zooka for Stinky.
If the young'ns like to play with the iPad while you're driving, the Android might be the call. My favorite app is Torque Pro, until something better comes along.
I saw the needle on the gauge drop and climb in the video. That's power, not the backlight. You have a loose power connection to the gauge, and a WTS that flakes out. The most common cause of the WTS re-firing is unstable power to the PCM. Two things within inches of each other with unstable power implies they are connected. I'm not a diesel mechanic by trade - this is purely a hobby (with marginal competence). I am a technology troubleshooter by trade - and my employer feels I'm competent enough at that to keep reloading the Buck$Zooka for Stinky.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15695344
I'm thinking CPS, Hutch, IPR or ICP (check OBD readings first), Fuel bowl heater, in that order
Did you replace the parker sleeves on the fuel lines into the bowl when you cleaned it? Did you remove these lines or the bowl?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
Synthetic 5W-40. The low bottom number makes the oil "thin" enough to make the engine easy to start when cold. Synthetic is something like 2-3 times the cost of dead dinosaurs, so you have to really want to start the truck in the cold. Rotella T6 is what I would call the bottom rung of the synthetics, others will disagree. My injector guy recommends Mobile 1.
If the young'ns like to play with the iPad while you're driving, the Android might be the call. My favorite app is Torque Pro, until something better comes along.
I saw the needle on the gauge drop and climb in the video. That's power, not the backlight. You have a loose power connection to the gauge, and a WTS that flakes out. The most common cause of the WTS re-firing is unstable power to the PCM. Two things within inches of each other with unstable power implies they are connected. I'm not a diesel mechanic by trade - this is purely a hobby (with marginal competence). I am a technology troubleshooter by trade - and my employer feels I'm competent enough at that to keep reloading the Buck$Zooka for Stinky.
If the young'ns like to play with the iPad while you're driving, the Android might be the call. My favorite app is Torque Pro, until something better comes along.
I saw the needle on the gauge drop and climb in the video. That's power, not the backlight. You have a loose power connection to the gauge, and a WTS that flakes out. The most common cause of the WTS re-firing is unstable power to the PCM. Two things within inches of each other with unstable power implies they are connected. I'm not a diesel mechanic by trade - this is purely a hobby (with marginal competence). I am a technology troubleshooter by trade - and my employer feels I'm competent enough at that to keep reloading the Buck$Zooka for Stinky.
What you're saying makes sense but I think the gauge is manufactured to do that, needle goes all the way up then back down. I could be wrong but it has always done just that. I'm gonna check wires tomorrow after work when I'm at my shop. I'll try Mobil 1 this go around n see how she likes it
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
The official Ford Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnostics book confirmed what I was pretty sure I already knew - the power must be interrupted to restart the WTS. I also know from experience a command on the OBDII port can reset the signal from the key or the internal timer.
You may want to read the manual on that gauge. I'd bet it doesn't say "Starting procedure: Flicker semaphore to the squirrels behind the truck that the driver is distracted, then wave arm repeatedly to keep the driver's attention."
Unless the gauge is cahoots with the squirrels to steal your nuts, I'd say you've had a bad connection since it was installed.
You may want to read the manual on that gauge. I'd bet it doesn't say "Starting procedure: Flicker semaphore to the squirrels behind the truck that the driver is distracted, then wave arm repeatedly to keep the driver's attention."
Unless the gauge is cahoots with the squirrels to steal your nuts, I'd say you've had a bad connection since it was installed.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
Take a little time to read about the fuel bowl in this thread, starting at post #132
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15695344
I'm thinking CPS, Hutch, IPR or ICP (check OBD readings first), Fuel bowl heater, in that order
Did you replace the parker sleeves on the fuel lines into the bowl when you cleaned it? Did you remove these lines or the bowl?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15695344
I'm thinking CPS, Hutch, IPR or ICP (check OBD readings first), Fuel bowl heater, in that order
Did you replace the parker sleeves on the fuel lines into the bowl when you cleaned it? Did you remove these lines or the bowl?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
I have also unplugged my fuel bowl heater and the problem is still here so I plugged it back in that morning
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
The official Ford Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnostics book confirmed what I was pretty sure I already knew - the power must be interrupted to restart the WTS. I also know from experience a command on the OBDII port can reset the signal from the key or the internal timer.
You may want to read the manual on that gauge. I'd bet it doesn't say "Starting procedure: Flicker semaphore to the squirrels behind the truck that the driver is distracted, then wave arm repeatedly to keep the driver's attention."
Unless the gauge is cahoots with the squirrels to steal your nuts, I'd say you've had a bad connection since it was installed.
You may want to read the manual on that gauge. I'd bet it doesn't say "Starting procedure: Flicker semaphore to the squirrels behind the truck that the driver is distracted, then wave arm repeatedly to keep the driver's attention."
Unless the gauge is cahoots with the squirrels to steal your nuts, I'd say you've had a bad connection since it was installed.
Oil is pull of Mobil 5w40 with a Mobil filter, you're injector guy tells no lie, these tired injectors LOVE Mobil.
Lastly, I purchased and downloaded the "torque pro" application, then got online and found a OBDLink LX Bluetooth adapter, normally priced at 100.99 and it was on sale for 69.99 with free priority mail shipping. Got it. Leave it plugged in and the problem still persists, truck runs great and monitors everything very accurate only problem is that when I click the "fault codes" button to scan my truck, it either dies, or won't start. Take it out of "fault code mode" and it runs like a top. I'm soooooo confused. Also, this adapter came with a 3 year warranty do I don't think it is at fault.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
...only problem is that when I click the "fault codes" button to scan my truck, it either dies, or won't start. Take it out of "fault code mode" and it runs like a top. I'm soooooo confused. Also, this adapter came with a 3 year warranty do I don't think it is at fault.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
My truck stalls or doesn't start with ANY scanner hooked up to it. I can't tell you brand or model but whatever pep boys, autozone and advanced auto use, they all can't get anything to read. Same with my torque pro, the OBDLink LX came with its own application so it's being downloaded now and I'll test to see if it's "fault code mode" does the same or if it actually give me my codes.