A/C no longer working
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 536
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
A/C no longer working
Hi guys, 
My A/C has just stopped working and I am looking for some pointers on how to diagnose the problem.
The vent and blower still works, just no cold air coming out.
Where do I start?
My A/C has just stopped working and I am looking for some pointers on how to diagnose the problem.
The vent and blower still works, just no cold air coming out.
Where do I start?
More Turbo
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 635
Likes: 143
From: Staten Island, NY
Have you checked to see if the compressor is turning? If it is not, check the fuse, if the fuse is good you can jump the compressor to see if it starts. if it does, check your air temp, you might have low gas which would cause the compressor to shut down. You can add gas to the system to get it operational again and then check for leaks. Both are easy and inexpensive fix. If the compressor does not turn when jumped it might be bad. Not every thing that could be wrong with the system but a good start to identifying problem.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 536
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Last night I took Vinny G's advise and started to investigate. 
1. The compressor is turning when the AC is on. It also turn off when AC off.
2. Checked the "most likely" fuses and none are blown.
3. Air temp from the front vents = outside temp. It is not cold. I only tried the front vents.
It seems like I need to refill the freon with the leak detection die.
I will have to check the back vents tonight.
Any other ideas?
1. The compressor is turning when the AC is on. It also turn off when AC off.
2. Checked the "most likely" fuses and none are blown.
3. Air temp from the front vents = outside temp. It is not cold. I only tried the front vents.
It seems like I need to refill the freon with the leak detection die.
I will have to check the back vents tonight.
Any other ideas?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
1. The compressor is turning when the AC is on. It also turn off when AC off.
If the system is low on refrigerant, the compressor will usually "short-cycle". Is it doing that? If not, it's not a charge level issue.
Check the lines at the firewall to see if they're cold or not. If they are not and the compressor "appears" to be operating continuously, you've most likely got an internal compressor failure, either a sheared shaft or the valves have blown. Check for that by, with the engine off, seeing how easily the compressor hub and shaft turns by hand (or with a ratchet/8MM) on the bolt head. A normal compressor will offer resistance at multiple points of a rotation, a failed compressor will turn easily throughout the revolution.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 635
Likes: 143
From: Staten Island, NY
Look not only at the clutch hub, look also at the bolt head on the compressor shaft to see if it's also turning.
If the system is low on refrigerant, the compressor will usually "short-cycle". Is it doing that? If not, it's not a charge level issue.
Check the lines at the firewall to see if they're cold or not. If they are not and the compressor "appears" to be operating continuously, you've most likely got an internal compressor failure, either a sheared shaft or the valves have blown. Check for that by, with the engine off, seeing how easily the compressor hub and shaft turns by hand (or with a ratchet/8MM) on the bolt head. A normal compressor will offer resistance at multiple points of a rotation, a failed compressor will turn easily throughout the revolution.
If the system is low on refrigerant, the compressor will usually "short-cycle". Is it doing that? If not, it's not a charge level issue.
Check the lines at the firewall to see if they're cold or not. If they are not and the compressor "appears" to be operating continuously, you've most likely got an internal compressor failure, either a sheared shaft or the valves have blown. Check for that by, with the engine off, seeing how easily the compressor hub and shaft turns by hand (or with a ratchet/8MM) on the bolt head. A normal compressor will offer resistance at multiple points of a rotation, a failed compressor will turn easily throughout the revolution.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 536
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Check for that by, with the engine off, seeing how easily the compressor hub and shaft turns by hand (or with a ratchet/8MM) on the bolt head. A normal compressor will offer resistance at multiple points of a rotation, a failed compressor will turn easily throughout the revolution.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 166
Likes: 4
Slow down...get her warmed up with the a/c on and check your rear vents before moving on. If they are both sub-par and the compressor is running, I'd bet on just low refrigerant. Big system so it may need a can or two. My front started sucking after I replaced my rear expansion valve(NAPA has em). Now my back freezes you out while the front barely cools. Just had too much $$$ already in it so next year the front gets tackled, but with the rear it gets arctic cold in there! You could just simply be low on R134. Get a gauge next and get some pressure readings. Don't worry about the compressor just yet...no sense getting bummed out about an expensive worse case scenario when it could be a $20 fix. If it has dye in it, don't add anymore. I think overuse is what kills these systems...that and stop-leak....of course I don't like stop-leak anything...like a band-aid for a broken leg.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 536
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Ok, checked out the following at lunch time today. It is not very warm (65 degrees F) to be checking AC. Here is what I found.
1. The center bolt on the compressor is spinning when AC is on. Not spinning AC off.
2. The rear vents got cold, but the front did not get cold. Rear reading was 55 degrees out of lower vent. Front read 68 degrees ~ outside temp.
3. There was a lot of water on the ground under the AC drain.
4. Under the hood, the "T" AC line was very cold with condensation.
Where do I go from here? Thanks for the pointers?
1. The center bolt on the compressor is spinning when AC is on. Not spinning AC off.
2. The rear vents got cold, but the front did not get cold. Rear reading was 55 degrees out of lower vent. Front read 68 degrees ~ outside temp.
3. There was a lot of water on the ground under the AC drain.
4. Under the hood, the "T" AC line was very cold with condensation.
Where do I go from here? Thanks for the pointers?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post