1996 starting issue, intermittent
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1996 starting issue, intermittent
Having trouble with the truck. It sat for 6 years before I bought it. replaced all the fluids, the belt, rollers/tensioner, brake booseter, master cylinder, slave cylinder and miscellaneous tidbits.
Have not replaced the fuel line just yet.
When starting cold, it may start on the first go after waiting until the light goes off +5 seconds. May take a few repetitions of this process.
When running and needing to pop into a shop for a few minutes I seem to have the most trouble.
A few days ago, it refused to start and I had to take the wagon to get the kids to school.
I hear a "click"/electrical circuit closing/ relay, ?bendix? when there is not any action.
The reason I ask for advice is that there may be "conditions" needing to be satisfied within the ECM before engaging the starter. This is a manual tranny and I've yet to source a manual for it.
Thank you in advance,
Poppa Squirrel
Have not replaced the fuel line just yet.
When starting cold, it may start on the first go after waiting until the light goes off +5 seconds. May take a few repetitions of this process.
When running and needing to pop into a shop for a few minutes I seem to have the most trouble.
A few days ago, it refused to start and I had to take the wagon to get the kids to school.
I hear a "click"/electrical circuit closing/ relay, ?bendix? when there is not any action.
The reason I ask for advice is that there may be "conditions" needing to be satisfied within the ECM before engaging the starter. This is a manual tranny and I've yet to source a manual for it.
Thank you in advance,
Poppa Squirrel
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Damned third bolt...
So I got myself under the truck and tried to engage the starter, it spun for a short time and quit.
Pulled the thing out to verify the solenoid was at least good and that is the redeeming tidbit~ it is a good solenoid.
Getting the starter rebuilt at the shop or buying a new or re-popped one is a matter of money.
???Should I keep the solenoid and re-use it or just toss it up on the shelf "just in case"?
If anyone knows of an easier way to get that top bolt , let me know... I ended up using a 17mm socket to 3" extension to universal to 3" extension to reducer to 1/4" drive socket wrench. I tell you, the combinations that I tried were getting pretty silly.
Pulled the thing out to verify the solenoid was at least good and that is the redeeming tidbit~ it is a good solenoid.
Getting the starter rebuilt at the shop or buying a new or re-popped one is a matter of money.
???Should I keep the solenoid and re-use it or just toss it up on the shelf "just in case"?
If anyone knows of an easier way to get that top bolt , let me know... I ended up using a 17mm socket to 3" extension to universal to 3" extension to reducer to 1/4" drive socket wrench. I tell you, the combinations that I tried were getting pretty silly.
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NEW starter and starter-mounted solenoid.
Alright, so I switched the starter out as it was having abnormal load when cranked during bench test.
It clicked once.
I swore once.
It started the second time.
Washed out the filth that had become the bed, nose up on ramps. Tried to start it...
Clicked once.
Swore once (thinking I had it figured out)
No start on second try.
Swore twice....
The pattern went on. For quite some time.
Major Gator informs me that there are @ Solenoids on this beast. For pity sake... that's why the pictures of the solenoid(s) available were so different.
Anything else I ought to look at?
Hoping that I will eliminate the gremlin BEFORE I replace each accessory LOL
It clicked once.
I swore once.
It started the second time.
Washed out the filth that had become the bed, nose up on ramps. Tried to start it...
Clicked once.
Swore once (thinking I had it figured out)
No start on second try.
Swore twice....
The pattern went on. For quite some time.
Major Gator informs me that there are @ Solenoids on this beast. For pity sake... that's why the pictures of the solenoid(s) available were so different.
Anything else I ought to look at?
Hoping that I will eliminate the gremlin BEFORE I replace each accessory LOL
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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This is the part that I replaced because it was giving me the occasional "click" when trying to start. Not all the time, but just enough to be annoying. I believe this is a common problem.
Sorry for the confusion...must have been too early this morning.
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From: Sonoma, CA
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,132
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From: Columbus, Oh
Yessir, these trucks draw a lot of juice. Make sure you have TWO quality, heavy duty batts. Have you checked all the wiring? Anything chaffed and not making contact? All grounds good?
You can check the starter relay on the fender pretty easy with a screw driver.
You can check the starter relay on the fender pretty easy with a screw driver.
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Good point!
Just to add something about batteries, I found that the dealership battery prices (for my truck) were far better than any of the local auto parts stores! That's a strange phenomenon, and I was shocked to learn it. I replaced Motorcraft batteries in my truck that were 9 years old, so I figured why do anything different...especially since they were less expensive.
Just to add something about batteries, I found that the dealership battery prices (for my truck) were far better than any of the local auto parts stores! That's a strange phenomenon, and I was shocked to learn it. I replaced Motorcraft batteries in my truck that were 9 years old, so I figured why do anything different...especially since they were less expensive.
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Sneaky Ford truck...
In cards, it would be called "weed layin' "
The batteries were only a month old and bought from NAPA each reading 12.65V.
Having that second 'solenoid'/relay was a sneaky thing. I expected that any conditions to starting would be governed by relays as they are in the gasohol world. I checked the viability of each relay in the master fuse box and they were all good. Having a heavy duty relay on the far side of the engine compartment was a bit of weed layin' if ever there was.
Next time I'm playing cards, my truck isn't invited.
Thank you all for the support on this.
FWIW: what type of repair/shop manual do you suggest? I'm long overdue.
The batteries were only a month old and bought from NAPA each reading 12.65V.
Having that second 'solenoid'/relay was a sneaky thing. I expected that any conditions to starting would be governed by relays as they are in the gasohol world. I checked the viability of each relay in the master fuse box and they were all good. Having a heavy duty relay on the far side of the engine compartment was a bit of weed layin' if ever there was.
Next time I'm playing cards, my truck isn't invited.
Thank you all for the support on this.
FWIW: what type of repair/shop manual do you suggest? I'm long overdue.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
The starter relay on the passenger side fender. If you're getting power to the solenoid (the ACTUAL _solenoid_ on the starter), the relay is good. This is actually the same starting circuit used in just about all Ford vehicles of the era.
If the solenoid is engaging but the starter is not turning, and you're sure the batteries are good (check voltage AND _load_ test them, in isolation, and they should be 850 CCA minimum), then your next prime suspect is the main battery wiring. Check connections at both batteries, negative battery cables where they bolt to the block, and main wire from passenger battery to the starter motor. Weakness in that terminal at the starter motor, or perhaps even the nut that holds that terminal to the terminal stud on the starter, could cause this.
To your speculation in your opening post, the PCM has no bearing on the starter circuit.
If the solenoid is engaging but the starter is not turning, and you're sure the batteries are good (check voltage AND _load_ test them, in isolation, and they should be 850 CCA minimum), then your next prime suspect is the main battery wiring. Check connections at both batteries, negative battery cables where they bolt to the block, and main wire from passenger battery to the starter motor. Weakness in that terminal at the starter motor, or perhaps even the nut that holds that terminal to the terminal stud on the starter, could cause this.
To your speculation in your opening post, the PCM has no bearing on the starter circuit.
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