Start circuit problems
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
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From: North Western New Jersey
Start circuit problems
I literally just replaced my starter with a brand new Napa gear reduction starter.
Now the truck won't start via the key. The problem (if there is one) is in the key circuit, not the starter. I am able to jump the starter solenoid from the battery and it works as its intended to.
First off, I've bypassed the fender solenoid. It quit working some time ago and a bit redundant if you ask me, so I took the key/start wire and ran it directly to the solenoid on the starter. I ran the truck this way with the factory starter for some time without a hitch so why Im suddenly having a problem is baffling me.
After doing some diagnosis work, I'm showing 6 volts on the key wire that activates the fender solenoid, when cranking. Did Ford use a resistance wire in the circuit??? Or is my key switch likely bad?
If I try cranking it with the key, it will randomly work.
If the key switch is "bad" I'm thinking maybe the old starter solenoid didn't mind the lower voltage. The Napa solenoid seems to want a full 12 volts. Why the key isn't producing 12volts to me is either because sonething upstream is stopping the full voltage from getting thru or it's designed that way.
Any help is much appreciated!
Now the truck won't start via the key. The problem (if there is one) is in the key circuit, not the starter. I am able to jump the starter solenoid from the battery and it works as its intended to.
First off, I've bypassed the fender solenoid. It quit working some time ago and a bit redundant if you ask me, so I took the key/start wire and ran it directly to the solenoid on the starter. I ran the truck this way with the factory starter for some time without a hitch so why Im suddenly having a problem is baffling me.
After doing some diagnosis work, I'm showing 6 volts on the key wire that activates the fender solenoid, when cranking. Did Ford use a resistance wire in the circuit??? Or is my key switch likely bad?
If I try cranking it with the key, it will randomly work.
If the key switch is "bad" I'm thinking maybe the old starter solenoid didn't mind the lower voltage. The Napa solenoid seems to want a full 12 volts. Why the key isn't producing 12volts to me is either because sonething upstream is stopping the full voltage from getting thru or it's designed that way.
Any help is much appreciated!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,559
Likes: 5,591
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
<p>yup, sounds like you smoked the ignition switch. the starter pulls too much power for the ignition switch to handle, that is the reason for the fender mount starter relay.</p>
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Huh, I would have thought the switch could handle the lower current draw of the solenoid but the starter solenoid might be too much. I have a suspicion that the old starter wasn't affected by the 6 volts. The new starter wants a full 12.
Regardless I grabbed a new switch and fender mounted solenoid and will try again tonight.
Any thoughts on if the neutral/safety switch could be bad as well or in place?
Regardless I grabbed a new switch and fender mounted solenoid and will try again tonight.
Any thoughts on if the neutral/safety switch could be bad as well or in place?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
My F350 was wired the way you have yours when I got it, which I discovered after it started cranking intermittently, and I assumed starter, but I put the wiring back to stock and made no other changes, and it works just fine again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
The OP's profile _suggests_ that it's a manual, so that switch on the pushrod would definitely be worth checking.
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