New issue - hot no start
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
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From: Oakville, Ontario
around 23.5% on hot idle.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Oakville, Ontario
Wow John. I can't believe you've already put 161K kms. on it already since the work was done. Time sure flies. However, if it was done back in '09, chances are pretty good you still have the original style standpipe and dummy rail plug combo. Although I don't know the exact date off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure the updated standpipes and dummy rail plugs were released sometime later than that. Which if that's the case, it certainly wouldn't hurt to install them now. The part number is 6E7Z-9A332-B for the kit that does both sides, if that helps. To know for sure, you can always remove your valve covers for a look/see. If they require a 10mm allen head, you still have the original style (the updated ones use a 12mm allen head).
To be honest. How hard is it to replace? With my limited knowledge. Hours wise.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Not much longer than it takes to remove the valve covers. The most difficult thing will be getting the standpipe out of the passenger side rail because of the HVAC box. That will probably require taking the oil rail loose. Probably 2-3 hours to do both sides.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Unplug the ICP and see if it starts well. If so, its the ICP or ICP pigtail.
It is certainly a HPO system problem because your IPR is maxed out with such low HPO pressure.
Other than a HPO system air test, or a good IPR to swap, I'm not sure how to rule out a bad IPR.
I'd bet a house payment m-chan nailed it.
It is certainly a HPO system problem because your IPR is maxed out with such low HPO pressure.
Other than a HPO system air test, or a good IPR to swap, I'm not sure how to rule out a bad IPR.
I'd bet a house payment m-chan nailed it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
To access the passenger side valve cover involves removing the GPCM mounting bracket, ICP sensor, engine oil filler tube and transmission dipstick tube. To access the driver side valve cover requires removal of the air cleaner assembly, air inlet tube to the turbo, FICM and front/rear FICM mounting brackets along with the engine oil dipstick tube. Once the above items are addressed, the valve covers are only 11 fasteners away from removal (seven studs, four bolts for the passenger side and five studs and six bolts for the driver side). I don't know what your skill level is, but all of the above mentioned is what's required. Timewise, is dependent on what YOUR skill level is (which only YOU know).
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
I would humbly add my two cents worth, make yourself a etch a sketch or simple diagram(you can actually read and remember the next day or week if need be) of what valve cover bolts go where. It will make like easier putting them back on, the drivers side in particular with the FICM.
I made a drawing, but since doing the hpop took so long as I was doing only in my spare time, I was not 100% sure what bolts went where on some the longer studs for the FICM. it took a bit of time looking at some pictures and searching some threads.
Same with the intake manifold if it ever comes to taking that off.
I made a drawing, but since doing the hpop took so long as I was doing only in my spare time, I was not 100% sure what bolts went where on some the longer studs for the FICM. it took a bit of time looking at some pictures and searching some threads.
Same with the intake manifold if it ever comes to taking that off.
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