New issue - hot no start
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Oakville, Ontario
New issue - hot no start
I have been noticing this issue for about a month now. Slowly getting worse.
On a cold start, it would sometimes take 5-10 second to catch. About a week ago I noticed that after driving around town it took longer to start. Now it is almost to the point of no start when its hot.
KOEO
IRP = 14.7
IPR = 0
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 0
Starting when hot
IPR = 73.5
IPR =450 - 550
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 1
Then if I press the pedal it may start up right away.
I am thinking IPR valve issues.
New EBP sensor (cleaned out the tube and nipple)
New EGR valve
Clean out the map sensor line
Clean out the IAT sensor
What else to look at before I take it to m-chan68?
OEM filters
5-40 Rotella
Thanks for any help.
On a cold start, it would sometimes take 5-10 second to catch. About a week ago I noticed that after driving around town it took longer to start. Now it is almost to the point of no start when its hot.
KOEO
IRP = 14.7
IPR = 0
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 0
Starting when hot
IPR = 73.5
IPR =450 - 550
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 1
Then if I press the pedal it may start up right away.
I am thinking IPR valve issues.
New EBP sensor (cleaned out the tube and nipple)
New EGR valve
Clean out the map sensor line
Clean out the IAT sensor
What else to look at before I take it to m-chan68?
OEM filters
5-40 Rotella
Thanks for any help.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Those readings were close to mine when the HPOP found better things to do than pressurize the injectors.
She would flirt with 500 but never got above, however don't rule out the ICP or IPR.
Does it run if you unplug the ICP?
She would flirt with 500 but never got above, however don't rule out the ICP or IPR.
Does it run if you unplug the ICP?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
New issue - hot no start
If u got it tore down, might as well do the o-rings on fuel rail, nipple cups on injectors, etc. unless ur thinking of headstuds, head gaskets, etc etc.
One of our members, robbinthahood, is proficient in this too. U might hit him with a message. He might be able to help u out unless u have other plans. Good luck!
One of our members, robbinthahood, is proficient in this too. U might hit him with a message. He might be able to help u out unless u have other plans. Good luck!
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Oakville, Ontario
Fuel Pressure is 65psi.
The ICP sensor was replaced a couple months ago.
Hopping that's all.
I have not opened it up. Haven't the time. (got one week left of holidays and off to SC next month).
Any more checks that will confirm or pinpoint the problem? I have AE (ford). What else should I monitor on cold start and hot starts to be sure?
Thanks
Hopping that's all.
If u got it tore down, might as well do the o-rings on fuel rail, nipple cups on injectors, etc. unless ur thinking of headstuds, head gaskets, etc etc.
One of our members, robbinthahood, is proficient in this too. U might hit him with a message. He might be able to help u out unless u have other plans. Good luck!
One of our members, robbinthahood, is proficient in this too. U might hit him with a message. He might be able to help u out unless u have other plans. Good luck!
Any more checks that will confirm or pinpoint the problem? I have AE (ford). What else should I monitor on cold start and hot starts to be sure?
Thanks
Trending Topics
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,270
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Most likely a high pressure leak, on our early 05 6.0 it's always the injector o-ring( where it connects to the oil rail) take your valve covers off start her up and check for oil squirting from the injectors where it connects to the oil rail, if that fails stc fitting, hpop hardly go bad, even the early ones they are pretty much bullet proof.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
John, if I'm not mistaken, when your truck was "gone over" while it was under warranty, I thought you already had your STC fitting replaced, along with your dummy rail plugs. BUT..... in thinking about it, how long ago was this done? The reason I ask is because the updated rail plugs and standpipes with the white Teflon rings weren't released until very late into this hot no restart issue became more apparent.
The only way to know if yours has the updated rail plugs or not, is to go over all paperwork. If you see -W302195 in the list of parts, those are the original style dummy rail plugs (the ones that tend to fail the lower d-rings). The updated rail plugs would be part number -W302908, OR you can obtain updated standpipes for both banks along with updated rail plugs for both banks as well in one kit and the part number for it, is 6E7Z-9A332-B. The other way to tell for sure is to remove your valve covers. If a 10mm allen key is needed to remove either rail plug or standpipe, you still have the original style. The updated rail plugs and standpipes require a 12mm allen key to remove/install.
The only way to know if yours has the updated rail plugs or not, is to go over all paperwork. If you see -W302195 in the list of parts, those are the original style dummy rail plugs (the ones that tend to fail the lower d-rings). The updated rail plugs would be part number -W302908, OR you can obtain updated standpipes for both banks along with updated rail plugs for both banks as well in one kit and the part number for it, is 6E7Z-9A332-B. The other way to tell for sure is to remove your valve covers. If a 10mm allen key is needed to remove either rail plug or standpipe, you still have the original style. The updated rail plugs and standpipes require a 12mm allen key to remove/install.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
Ah hah! Didn't realize my options has disabled signatures. Been trying to figure out for a while why my signature wasn't showing up.
What's the IPR% at hot idle?
What's the IPR% at hot idle?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Wow John. I can't believe you've already put 161K kms. on it already since the work was done. Time sure flies. However, if it was done back in '09, chances are pretty good you still have the original style standpipe and dummy rail plug combo. Although I don't know the exact date off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure the updated standpipes and dummy rail plugs were released sometime later than that. Which if that's the case, it certainly wouldn't hurt to install them now. The part number is 6E7Z-9A332-B for the kit that does both sides, if that helps. To know for sure, you can always remove your valve covers for a look/see. If they require a 10mm allen head, you still have the original style (the updated ones use a 12mm allen head).