Batteries
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
Yea I bet that's the correct size 10mmx1.50
Since installing the extra ground cable I noticed an increase in charging voltage just after start up when the glow plugs turn off and the alternator takes over. I am seeing 14.1-14.2 volts just after start up then settles down to about 13.6 volts after about 1/2 hr of running. Not sure why this is but my starter does sound like it draws a lot of current during a cold start. Maybe needing a new starter.
.
Since installing the extra ground cable I noticed an increase in charging voltage just after start up when the glow plugs turn off and the alternator takes over. I am seeing 14.1-14.2 volts just after start up then settles down to about 13.6 volts after about 1/2 hr of running. Not sure why this is but my starter does sound like it draws a lot of current during a cold start. Maybe needing a new starter.
.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,127
From: Jersey Shore
And you should not need to update anything else. The one 24" negative cable and clean grounding points brings everything up to optimal. There is minimal voltage drop between all the batteries, charging and starting connections at this point with the stock cables.
I really need to get a
and finish this video.
I really need to get a
and finish this video.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,127
From: Jersey Shore
Ok, I'm doing this in video segments. I keep waiting for my nasal condition to clear up (it isn't) and I keep going back and forth with never ending corrections.
So here is the first segment about the 6.0 layout, specifically the ground wire problem, with more being finished up about other cables and alternators.
So here is the first segment about the 6.0 layout, specifically the ground wire problem, with more being finished up about other cables and alternators.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Arvada, CO
Ok, I'm doing this in video segments. I keep waiting for my nasal condition to clear up (it isn't) and I keep going back and forth with never ending corrections.
So here is the first segment about the 6.0 layout, specifically the ground wire problem, with more being finished up about other cables and alternators.
TMT Powerstroke 6.0L Maintenance Series - Drivers Ground Cable - YouTube
So here is the first segment about the 6.0 layout, specifically the ground wire problem, with more being finished up about other cables and alternators.
TMT Powerstroke 6.0L Maintenance Series - Drivers Ground Cable - YouTube
I still haven't done it yet, I have been so stupid busy, need to though! It's in the queue with my tranny fluid change, blue spring kit and a new belt. Just need to find the time!About how long of a bolt is that 10x1.5 for the block? About 3/4" long enough but not too long?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
Thanks for the vid.
There are various boss locations on the head, one is a located higher, a M10x1.50, the other is a 3/8x16. For all you 05-07 owners; You want to use the SAE landing.
The metric boss is for the earlier models.
At the 5 o'clock position of the metric boss You will find another landing point located about 5" (towards the lower outside edge of the head) there will be a 3/8x16 boss that will not interfere with lines and hoses.
Get yourself a 3/8x 16 tap, use it to clean out the hole then use the tap in the factory 5/16" hole supplied in the frame rail adjacent to the steering box. No drilling required.
I used a zinc 1" bolt for both locations (The 3/8 boss is much shallower than the metric one). You should only need a 18" cable, or 21" if you want to piggyback the existing battery cable landing.
If that's too wordy for some of you guys with an '05-'07, please refer to post #80 in this thread by CPB1
Thanks Jack for bring this up and pointing out the shortfall of the starting circuit. In the audio aspect of your video, the starter can be heard cranking much faster as if you had more current available.
There are various boss locations on the head, one is a located higher, a M10x1.50, the other is a 3/8x16. For all you 05-07 owners; You want to use the SAE landing.
The metric boss is for the earlier models.
At the 5 o'clock position of the metric boss You will find another landing point located about 5" (towards the lower outside edge of the head) there will be a 3/8x16 boss that will not interfere with lines and hoses.
Get yourself a 3/8x 16 tap, use it to clean out the hole then use the tap in the factory 5/16" hole supplied in the frame rail adjacent to the steering box. No drilling required.
I used a zinc 1" bolt for both locations (The 3/8 boss is much shallower than the metric one). You should only need a 18" cable, or 21" if you want to piggyback the existing battery cable landing.
If that's too wordy for some of you guys with an '05-'07, please refer to post #80 in this thread by CPB1
Thanks Jack for bring this up and pointing out the shortfall of the starting circuit. In the audio aspect of your video, the starter can be heard cranking much faster as if you had more current available.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Arvada, CO
I finally had the chance to do this today! Amazing, I went from a range of 13.56-13.76 to 13.88-14.0 just on my test drive. Definitely worth it! Thanks for all the info and help on this!
For those looking to this, I have an '05 so I went for the 1" 3/8x16 option and I couldn't get the bolt to go all the way in on my truck. I just threw a washer and a lock washer on it and all was good. I think 3/4" would have been sufficient.
For those looking to this, I have an '05 so I went for the 1" 3/8x16 option and I couldn't get the bolt to go all the way in on my truck. I just threw a washer and a lock washer on it and all was good. I think 3/4" would have been sufficient.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,127
From: Jersey Shore
Glad to hear it helped. I saw a change too.
I still don't understand why those are 3/8" threads on a motor completely designed in metric. And then there's this. They screwed right down in there.
. Maybe I'm picking the wrong holes.
I still don't understand why those are 3/8" threads on a motor completely designed in metric. And then there's this. They screwed right down in there.
. Maybe I'm picking the wrong holes.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Arvada, CO
With the addition of the 1/0 from the alternator to the passenger side battery and a 1/0 negative from the frame to motor, how big of an alternator can I go to now? Can I do those high output DC alternators? Or do I need to do some more cable upgrading?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
Anyway, all's well that ends well.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Thread Resurrection for an update:
Passenger battery died yesterday, failed a load test (I have a Solar BA-7 digital tester, it just says "charge" if the battery is too low), so I charged it and right off the box it only pulled ~220cca. After putting it back in and spinning the starter for ~3 seconds it was back to a hard-fail. Motorcraft 750cca 11/13 date code installed 12/13, this is the longest I've had a set of batteries go in my truck (4 years 5 months), so I'm going to say the alternator and wiring upgrade plus my ****-retentive rotation scheme helped add about a year until one died. Or it could be God, blind luck, providence, the Flying Spaghetti Monster, or aliens. Who really knows.
Driver's battery tested out to 652cca when I pulled them out of the truck, charged and tested at just over 700cca after I put it back in the truck and spun the starter to clear any surface charge off.
I rotate the two batteries once or twice a year, and keep the trickle charger on the driver's side. My Motorcraft 750cc (original OEM spec) died every 3 years with the stock alt, but they died equally for the most part on the load tester. IDK if the DC Power alt and Ed's cables will help since my GP-cycle voltage is in the 12s and not the 10s now.
Driver's battery tested out to 652cca when I pulled them out of the truck, charged and tested at just over 700cca after I put it back in the truck and spun the starter to clear any surface charge off.