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I'm gonna add this to my list of things to do before winte............................................. .....
me too
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
.................................As you've noticed from not burning up your OE wiring with the higher output alternator, the 140a unit stays under 110a at normal startup idle so you've been fine for these few months. But at some point you need an additional wire so provide both full support and protection for the extra 30a. The 36" 12ga wire from the alternator output post to the battery positive terminal will provide more then enough of a path, and the easiest way to provide fusing is with a setup used in my neck of the woods for boating and available through Amazon or a boating supply store. When I had a 140a unit in place I used a 40a to give me a little headroom so it didn't quick blow.
For the 1/0 cable you can get that made up at a NAPA store with 5/16" lugs for a reasonable price or order one through Amazon or eBay. NAPA is my normal go to place and they might even be willing to make a 12ga wire too. Usually anything smaller then 8ga I make up myself.
The 1/0 goes from the drivers frame connection to a boss to the right side of the crankshaft pulley...................................
Gonna try to stop by NAPA this morning, here is my shopping list:
1) 24" 1/0gauge with 5/16" lugs (NAPA) for the drivers rail connection point to the engine block. connects at a boss by the power steering pump.
2) 36" 12ga wire (fused or fuseable link) with 5/16" lugs from the alternator output post to the passenger battery positive terminal
Just wanted to post this to have you guys look over and make sure I didn't make a mistake. I'm not 1/10th as knowledgeable on this subject as you guys are...... Just don't wanna burn her down after al the work I'm doing!
the passenger alt bat wire can be bigger, just that the 12ga is the size recommended to carry that load. Personally, I'd do a little bigger so that when the wire begins to degrade you still have some reserve.
Remember, the bigger the wire the less resistance it has.
AND clean all the grounds down to bare metal on both the connector and attaching point.
The frame / engine lugs are 3/8" (or 10mm) and you will need a 10-1.5x25mm bolt for the engine block connection.
Randy is right you can up that to a 10 or an 8ga. 12ga was actually up from the 14ga as that is all that was needed. If your NAPA is not into making that wire and it's not something you normally do let me know by pm.
Most of the peeps here have the F series 6.0. I have the E350 van and I need a little guidance for charging my batteries as they are located on the frame rail under the van.
I see a red capped jump starting port on the frame rail. Should I connect a trickle charger here to maintain the battery?
There is also + - in the main power distribution box. I don't know much about charging from here. When I bought the van, the tow truck tried to jump from this area and was not successful. He eventually found the jump starting points on the frame rail.
I have a CTEK charger and want to install a quick connect on the charge points. I have the alligator clips and don't trust them to stay on.
You should do it from the frame rail if you don't want to pull down the batteries and do them individually. It is best to do one at a time normally, but you should be fine with a trickle charger.
the passenger alt bat wire can be bigger, just that the 12ga is the size recommended to carry that load. Personally, I'd do a little bigger so that when the wire begins to degrade you still have some reserve.
Remember, the bigger the wire the less resistance it has.
AND clean all the grounds down to bare metal on both the connector and attaching point.
In making my own cables, I have even gone as far as to "tin" the wire first and solder the crimp-connectors directly to the wire.
Then use an anti-corrosion sealing substance on the connections before tightening the bolts so as to maintain the low resistance connections.
While I had the new cable exposed I thought I'd see what the current was running through it .... And to continue to learn how to work with video on this iPad rather then my camera.
The current during the glow plug warm up is about half of what I had seen while monitoring the positive cable, which I expected. But when starting the motor the current is way higher then what I expected to see, so I think when I previously looked at the current flow during starter engagement off the positive cable the value was low due to the ceiling of this ammeter. So we may be pulling more current during starting then what thought was occurring.
Im really a novice when it comes to all things electrical but I found a nice explanation on the short comings of our electrical system and how to improve it from ficm repair.com
the passenger alt bat wire can be bigger, just that the 12ga is the size recommended to carry that load. Personally, I'd do a little bigger so that when the wire begins to degrade you still have some reserve.
Remember, the bigger the wire the less resistance it has.
AND clean all the grounds down to bare metal on both the connector and attaching point.
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
The frame / engine lugs are 3/8" and you will need a M10-1.25x25mm bolt for the engine block connection.
Randy is right you can up that to a 10 or an 8ga. 12ga was actually up from the 14ga as that is all that was needed. If your NAPA is not into making that wire and it's not something you normally do let me know by pm.
got it - you were spot on with NAPA, $24 and 15 minutes and I was out the door!
Just don't wanna burn her down after al the work I'm doing!
