Hey Gents, I found a 622 code on my 94 bronco. I am by no means a mechanic, just trying to make repairs myself due to the fact being disabled doesn't pay well. I know the code is for the #2 solenoid circuit. My questions are, is this code telling me that the number 2 solenoid has issues ? Also, I was looking on the net to find the location of the transmission electrical connector. Many people stated it was on the passengers side. I can't find it on mine. The only plug I see is the one on the drivers side along side the shift linkage. There's the nuetral switch, I learned that today on line, with a plug in on top. Is that the plug I need to check the wires and pins on ? Also, can I just buy a single #2 aolenoid for it ? Thank you all for your help. I am learning as I go. I still am trying to find out where the vacuum hose that comes off throttle body and tee's off to the egr and continues to no where. I thought it went to charcoal canister next to the battery but I still get that code. I guess that I'm a work in progress. I just hope I can get it on the road soon.

 

The code means there is an electrical circuit problem between the PCM and the #2 solenoid. It could be in the PCM connector, or most likely the wiring between the PCM and the trans, or it could be the #2 solenoid. The solenoids come as a complete assembly, you can't replace just one.

The connector is on the passenger's side, towards the rear of the trans. There is a heat shield covering it. The connector on the driver's side is not the right one.

When checking the wiring for shorts and continuity, NEVER push a probe in the connecting end. Always probe the back of the connector. If you push the probe into the end that has to make the connection you can spread the pin open and create a problem where one didn't exist.

 

Thanks Mark...I looked but never saw any connection on the passengers side. The exhaust runs along side the transmission. I will check again. I didn't even see any heat shield . It is on the side of the transmission right ?

 

Yes it is.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words:

 

Thank you rla2005. The exhaust must be hiding it. We have had heavy storms today, but I will make sure I check it out tomorrow. Thank you all for the great info and help.

 

Mark's the expert. I'm just a hacker....

 

Well, I still thank you both for all the help. Like I said before, I am no where near a mechanic. My automobile knowledge is rather limited.

 

That connector is horrible to get to. Don't know if a lift would make it easier, I needed to disconnect it to flip it up over the trans to get enough slack to re-pin the MLPS connector.

Takes an 8mm to remove the 2 shield bolts, I had to use a box-end 8mm for one of them. The exhaust pipe is murder. To unplug the connector, laying on my right side/back, had to snake my left arm up between the frame and the exhaust pipe, then over the pipe, and down to the connector. Could get very little grip on it. I ended up using a 1/4" blade screwdriver to lift out sideways the locking tab, while trying to wiggle up the connector. Best (successful) wiggle action was towards/away from trans case.

I later looked at a pic I took, the connector says "PUSH" on the locking tab... no way I could see that in-person. Seems it works either way.

Plugging the connector back in was a no-go for me. I just could not get the strength required with my left arm all threaded through and bent-up like that. Needed a new idea... the problem was I needed to push DOWN hard, and could not. But if I could PULL down instead...

So I grabbed about a 16" length of 12 gauge insulated house wire (just one wire, not a cable), got it just looped over the top of the connector such that the hair-pin bend was on top of the connector, on the trans-side of the harness going into the connector. With my left hand holding the connector starting to engage it, I used the right hand to cross the two wire ends over each other on the outside (facing the exhaust pipe) side of the connector. That helped hold the wire on the top of the connector, rather than just sliding off. Then with left hand guiding, pulled hard on the two wires together with a leather-gloved right hand. It went right on!

But I did not hear a snap, it was close, but not locked yet. So I took the wire off, unwound my left arm outta there, and then with left finger tips on top of connector, with left thumb on the case flange for the pan, squeezed together. It clicked!
I was so proud of myself... I had gotten tired of staring up at the underside of the body, thinking, "NO, I DO NOT want to pull the seat(s) and carpet out and pry up the trans tunnel closure panel to have to get it from the top side!!!

P.S., if you are going to do resistance/voltage checks at the solenoid harness connector end, you may have to unplug the MLPS connector on the other side and flip the solenoid connector up over the trans to get enough slack in the harness to do anything. I know when I replaced the MLPS, the solenoid connector had more slack in it than the MLPS with it flipped up over to the driver side.

 

Thanks a lot Torky2. I know it's going to be a pain. I can only use my left side to crawl around on. I just hope that it's a pin or something. Again, thanks for the great info. I will see what I can do and keep my fingers crossed during the process.