Hi Tristan. I hope you take on the project with your son, it will definitely be worth it and can create a lifetime of memories. Like I said before, I bought a truck that needs just about everything, I'm at 3.5 years into my build but I don't regret any of it. I also started my build to spend time with my dad and brother and it has been awesome. I'll attach a link to my build thread and you can see why I suggest having a place to work (I'm outside all the time crawling around on the dirty driveway). I'm no mechanic and don't have tons of specialty tools, so almost everything I'm doing is "bolt on" because I really want to do it myself. I think my truck is coming along nicely and I wouldn't change a thing...but I can see that if you have the money, it would be easier to buy a good driver and then "make it your own."

For me, I'm mostly about show and not so much the go. I would be happy with any running engine (original 6 or v8) and transmission, but some guys want to go fast right away and would swap in an engine of their choice right away. I would probably achieve the stance I wanted (modify the suspension), get wheels and tires I wanted, and make sure the interior was the way I wanted. Sounds simple, but those three can really add up. Later, I would add a different rear end and modify the drive train. I think that if you and your son are used to modern vehicles, power steering and power disc brakes should be high on your list - they aren't necessary but are a simple modification to an original truck that will make the driving experience more enjoyable.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1161276-1956-f100-build-thread-a-family-affair.html

 

I think initialy i would be the same more concerned about the look than whats underneath. A nice modern motor and yes power steering and brakes would definitely be high on the list. Swapping over brakes and steering something that can be done yourself or better to have a pro take care of this?

I had a look at your thread last night and will follow it closely. Best of luck with it

 

Hey Tristan,
We started our project when my son was 17 - he's now 23... Since Zack was going to be driving it a bit I wanted it to be as safe as you can make a 60 year old truck

Brakes - These trucks come standard with (4) wheel drum brakes & a (1) chamber master cylinder. We upgraded to a dual chamber Mustang master cylinder so all the brakes wouldn't go out at once with a loss of pressure. I also wanted modern feeling disc brakes. You can buy disc brake kits for the front as well. We went with a modern Independent front suspension with front disc brakes.

I would plan to replace all the steel brake lines as they look great on the outside but they rust out on the inside. After 60 years let's go with new brake lines. We installed an Explorer Ebrake set up as our truck didn't have an emergency brake.

Steering - These trucks tend to come with worn out steering giving you a really loose feeling with a lot of wandering. To tighten up the steering people install Toyota 4x4 steering boxes that fit like a glove - coupled with a power steering pump - modern steering is nice. (We also replaced the 60 year old steering column with an Ididit column). Some go with a Jag front suspension set up that fits our track width or go with a Mustang II style IFS. (Pricey & difficult).

Seat Belts - These trucks didn't come with seat belts so you get to reinforce the floor a bit & install modern 3 point seat belts.

Wipers - Our truck came standard with just a drivers side vacuum powered wiper. We installed a modern electric wiper set up. ($300)

Rear End - If you like to cruise at more than 50 mph - You'll need to upgrade the rear end gearing. We used a $225 Explorer rear end from Salvage with 3.73 gearing. This gave us easy cruising at 65mph. This is a good early project as it can be done in a weekend or two.

Mirrors - The mirrors on these trucks have huge blind spots so we replaced the rear view with a modern concave mirror & we added exterior mirrors as well.

Cab Mounts - Your cab is held in place by a couple of substantial
Frame mounts. Our cab was held on by air pretty much. We added new welded on cab mounts & supporting steel bracing.

Turn Signals - Weren't standard on these trucks so you'll have to add
some turn signal lights up front & the actual mechanism on the steering column.

Gas Tank - Our tank was in the cab - smelly & full of crud. No thanks - I'm not comfortable sitting next to 16 gallons of gas. We relocated a new 22 gallon Mustang tank out back under the bed. Very common upgrade - made a huge difference. Another good early project - not too expensive as the tank only costs $125.

I like doing the Safety Upgrades first before making it go faster or look pretty but you get to build it any way you want. Replacing the Front Suspension is a Major Deal - pretty involved & pricey ($2500 just for parts - probably a couple of months of work. I'd get help there & we did.

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Ben ?

Thanks heaps for your post, this is the kind of info that is huge for me, as i stated I'm not much of a car guy but have always wanted my own f100 so without much knowledge in the more technical areas i really do appreciate your info. I guess now i just need to find myself the actual truck and get started.

Also i see a lot of trucks on "new" chassis, what is the general purpose of doing this? Is it needed?

Thnaks

 

Can anyone point me in the direction for trucks for sale? I regurarly check eBay, craigs list and cars online but I'm sure you guys might know some more places to check

Thanks

 

Avoid any unfinished truck with a frame swap ("new" chassis) like the plague! Our trucks do not frame swap very easy (unless it is onto a designed to fit aftermarket chassis from a major builder, but those chassis start at ~ 20K!
The roller trucks you linked to cannot be completed for your budget. Have you looked at the price of a crate motor and trans? and that doesn't cover the cost of all the rest of the parts needed to install them, plus these are not plastic model kits that just "glue together", all the parts are in the box and everything fits, they are a LOT of work, and parts costs add up real quick! A "simple" paint job without any body work start at 3K and can quickly go to 10K or more for base coat/clear coat, metallic colors, red color. Plus any minor dent removal, skim coating, blocking, can easily double that price.
Take your time shopping until you find a running driving truck that has all the major parts you want it to have, or you can live with: Engine, tranny, suspension, etc. Don't be in a hurry, "oh I can just change that later" is one of the most costly purchasing mistakes you can make. Shopping towards/in the winter can produce more candidates and lower prices than peak cruising/show season. Local/regional shows and even national shows like Goodguys are good places to shop many of the vehicles are for sale, even if there isn't a sign on them. If you see one you like, compliment the owner and get him talking about it (be sure you are talking to the actual owner/decision maker rather than a friend or relative just baby-sitting it). Asking what features he is particularly fond of and what he still will/would change can tell you a lot about the vehicle, then finally ask him what he would take for it (be sure you have the money immediately available should you reach a price!!!) What ever price he comes up with tell him as much as you like it you can't pay that for it, then ask if he'd take 1/2- 2/3 the price he asked (if it's within your budget!) see if he comes back with another asking price, if so then you can negotiate or if over your budget walk away. At least you will quickly learn what the market is like and what you get for the money. Realize most of the vehicles at shows were not built by the present owners, and there is no such thing as a "finished" build, there is always personal touches that can be added!
In this hobby, there are 2 groups of enthusiasts, builders and drivers. Builders enjoy spending months and years creating their vision, drivers enjoy getting out there and driving. Sounds like you are in the latter group, and that's OK.

 

I think that you have received a great deal of very valuable advice, but I do have a few thoughts to add.

First, be patient. Once I decided to get a truck, I started looking on ebay, craigslist, and general google searches. This helped me to get an idea as to what is out there in various conditions, as well as where they are and a general price range. From that, I was able to intelligently think about what I wanted and how much work I was willing and able to do. Now, I am lucky, in that I own my own woodworking company in my own building, so I have the space to store and work on the truck for as long as I need; I don't have to worry about landlords, rental space, tying up our garage at home, etc.

I am also very mechanical, and I love to learn new things. 10 years ago I couldn't change a bearing in a machine; today, I regularly tear down and rebuild old woodworking and metalworking machines, from a metal lathe all the way down to hand power tools. I knew that I could do most of the work myself, researching and learning how to do the things that I did not know how to do.

Armed with this knowledge, I continued my search for the perfect truck. I must have looked at over a thousand trucks on line before a complete basket case on ebay caught my eye. I immediately messaged the seller with questions and my phone number; he called me the next day. After talking with him, I felt very comfortable bidding on the truck, just based upon the pictures and our conversation. That truck is the one I'm restoring in my build thread.

So, I strongly recommend that you take your time and research what is out there before you commit to anything. The truck that is right for you is out there-you just have to find it.

I have seen a number of really decent restored trucks selling for anywhere from $12,000.00 to $25,000.00. With your budget, I would look for something that has been done already. The best bet would be an older restore-you will pay less, but it will probably need some body/mechanical work. You would be able to drive it and enjoy it, then work on it at your leisure.

Be very careful when you are looking at the drivetrain. I have always taken used cars to my mechanic for a thorough inspection before buying to uncover as many of the hidden problems as possible; I suggest you do the same with any truck you are seriously considering. My truck with the original flathead V8 was supposedly running when it was taken apart, although I have no way to verify this. A flathead rebuild is pretty specialized, with very few shops around with the capabilities to do it correctly, so the cost is higher. Mine is just about done and I believe that I will have about $7,000.00 into it, with me doing some of the work. Of course, properly maintained, this engine will outlast me before it needs to be rebuilt again.

Your mechanic can tell you how well any conversions were done, such as a rebuilt front end, rebuilt steering, brakes, etc. If a more modern engine has been swapped into the truck, he can at least give you a report as to its condition. And a newer engine will be probably be cheaper to rebuild or replace if needed. Probably.

Anyway, good luck with your search and keep us updated.