Hey

I am not a car guy, but my son and I want to restore/update an old truck together. I seen a few on a website juanky build that are rolling chassis/body.

What I'm after is some info from you guys with more experience, I'm after a rough break down on what needs to be done to make it a nice weekend cruising truck on a budget.

Thanks

 

It cant be done......"nice weekend cruising truck on a budget" the key words are NICE and BUDGET. If its nice it will run over budget, and if it stays under budget it wont be nice.
other than that, Welcome to the best site for old ford trucks!

 

Welcome to FTE!
I started with zero knowledge and I have learned a ton on this site. Budget means something different to each person. The best thing you can do is buy the best truck you can to start. A very cheap project turns in to years of work and busts your budget big time. Paint and body work are very expensive.

Here are some articles that will help you get started.
TRIALS OF A FIRST TIME BUILDER
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 1 - Ford-Trucks.com
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 2 - Ford-Trucks.com

So what budget are you talking? Any particular year you are looking for? Sometimes shipping a rust free truck is cheaper than buying a local rusty one.

AXRacer has a great article as well on a project plan. I will find it and post that as well.

 

Exactly what Joe said.
Kevin wrote words of wisdom as well.
Much cheaper to start with something decent. Welcome to the madness.

 

Here is a link to the build plan I mentioned:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13415696

 

I agree with everything that has been said. As someone who is into the 4th year of a "simple" build, I feel like I can share a few things that I totally agree with...most of which were told to me at the beginning...some of which I didn't listen to...ha.

1. As the others said, buy a running and driving truck if possible. While it's fun to work off of a "blank canvas" it will save so much time and headache if you start with a decent driver. You will be less likely to get bored with it also. There is still plenty to do for you and your son on a mostly "finished" truck.

2. There are a lot of mid fifty F100's that have been "hot rodded" in the past. That may or may not be a good thing. If it is a running truck, it's probably a good thing. If it's a half-done "just needs a few weekends to finish" project...sometimes there's a reason they didn't finish that jag suspension swap...

3. If you buy a more original truck, it's pretty easy to add the common disc brake upgrade (for a non mechanic, still pretty easy - just want someone to check your work). You don't HAVE to change the rear end, although most do (and it's also pretty easy). Also, sometimes I wish I was "restoring" a truck instead of building a hot rod, because it's easier to put things back where they belong than make new parts fit.

4. If you go the rolling chassis route, then it really comes down to making sure all systems are complete before you hit the road: Brakes, steering, drive line, electrical. It all adds up fast, I'm hoping to be running and driving at $12,000 - $15,000 spent. I could have done it cheaper, but I guess that includes some things that are "nice" and not just "budget." I started with an $1800 original truck with no running gear and missing front sheet metal. I'm no mechanic, but I have slowly been working on it. Everything I have done has been bolt on and pretty easy (though not always cheap).

5. Someone once gave me this advice...and it has definitely been a hurdle for me: you need a dedicated space to work on it. Make sure you have a garage spot for it, ideally with some room to work around it. When the truck is outside (as mine has been for most of 3.5 years) there is always a reason not to work on it.

I started this build to work on it with my dad and brother. We have had some good times, but I would definitely enjoy driving to shows and events with them sooner rather than later...again...buy a running/driving truck! ha

 

you have to read this, I'm not saying it going to be you but you have to realistic that its going to cost money.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-saturday.html

 

I agree with the others and would add this: If you go the rolling chassis route make sure you get a clear title. In most states a vehicle without a title is just a parts car/truck.

On the surface it may look like we're trying to talk you out of it. But in reality, we're just saying don't be afraid to spend some money up front.

Read the four articles Harrier has linked. They are full of great advice.

Whatever you do, HAVE FUN! Don't worry about it if it takes longer than you planned. Every hour you and your son spend on it together, you will be TOGETHER. If you start to worry about when it's going to be done it can become a chore. Chores are no fun.

 

Amen to that!

 

All good advice so far. Let me add a few more important points, questions (It's important that you are realistic and honest with yourself):
First and foremost, what is your true ulterior motive for wanting to do this?
a. Always wanted to own/drive an old vehicle? For shows, daily driver, cruising, work vehicle, other?
b. Always wanted to learn how to work on vehicles (mechanicals, body work/paint, upholstery, modifying), and older vehicles are easier to learn on?
c. building/restoring an old vehicle is cheaper, easier, less work, quicker to do than buying a later model vehicle as a second car (or for the son).

Second, why a truck?
a. Trucks are cool! Always wanted an old truck.
b. I need/can use a truck for it's work capacity.
c. Trucks are cheaper.
d. Trucks are easier (than?).
e. someone wants to give me one.

Third what is your mechanical abilities.
a. I am competent with most tools, have a good collection of hand and/or power tools and know how/like to use them. I do most of the repairs/upgrades around the house, and do a good job that I'm proud of.
b. I have basic hand tools, but I am willing to invest $$$ in more and learn new skills.
c. I have a couple screw drivers, pliers, hammer, duct tape and staple gun I picked up off the 1$ sale table in a kitchen drawer somewhere.
d. The guy next door has an awesome set of tools he lets me borrow (and I even return some of them undamaged...)
e. I'm not sure which end of a screwdriver is used, or what a box wrench looks like. I have a long list of phone numbers of people I call to fix things.

Fourth what kind of work space do you have available?
a. I have a 2 car garage sized (or larger) heated/cooled space I can dedicate to the build and parts storage for several years or longer.
b. I have a single car garage and outbuilding/exterior storage I can dedicate to the build.
c. I have a garage but the kids bikes, lawn mower, boat, wife's projects have to be taken out any time I want to work in it and then put back at the end of the day, and/or the family cars must be parked in it each night.
d. I have driveway/yard space where I can store/work on this build.
e. My HO Assoc. sends out letters if I park an extra car in the drive/yard, or leave the garage door open longer than a couple hours.

Fifth what is your (realistic) budget for this build?
a. unlimited (WOW good for you!).
b. $30 - 50K readily available.
c. $15 -25K readily available or 10K available to start + 10-15K available over 1 year.
d. 5K immediately available, +5K or less available over 1 year.
e. I don't believe a running/driving truck should cost over 5K total!

Sixth what is the time frame you are willing to devote most all your free time to?
a. must be on road in 3 mo or less.
b. must be on road by next summer.
c. I'm in for the long haul 3-5 years or longer.

 

The reason you find so many body chassis projects for sale is that many of those jumped in with unrealistic expectations/way over their heads, then discovered the hard facts of this hobby. It is NOT easy, quick, cheap, no matter what those bogus "reality" TV shows lead you to believe!
FACT!: a safe, running, driving, licensed, no frills truck will cost 15-25K total, owner doing all the labor (having to hire out some/most of the work can easily double that total, a top of the line build can go up to 75K DIY, to 200K hired out). A <1K rust bucket basket case will require 15-20K additional parts materials and equipment to put on the road. The more complete/good condition already driveable truck needing finishing i.e. paint, interior, details can cost 12-18K but will be able to be finished for additional 3-10K into a very nice truck. The difference is that the latter can be on the road immediately to <1 year. The basket case will take 2-10 years of intensive work or may never get on the road and become another project for sale or end up scrapped.
FACT: you will never get back what you put into it. The more after purchase $ you put into it the lower the % return you'll ever get out of it. The best value is to let someone else take that big hit by buying their (near)completed project.
FACT: body work is the most expensive, time consuming, labor intensive part of a build. Always buy the VERY BEST sheetmetal you can even if it means traveling to a rust free area like the SW, and/or paying more money for it. It's cheaper to pay transportation costs cross country than to repair a rust bucket. I went to NM from NC to buy my rust free panel truck.

 

^^ They said it all ^^

So I'll just add my Welcome to FTE!

 

That question is kinda like asking how do you make love to a beautiful woman...words can't describe the experience, you just have to get your face slapped a few times to appreciate it!

 

I realize we didn't really answer your original question. We sidestepped it a bit because of your first statement "I am not a car guy..." that sends up a red flag, to first verify that you understand the realities and are committed to this project. It's a much bigger commitment than just a few weekends of wrenchin' and throwin' a few hundred bucks at it.
To once again dance around your original question: There is no pat answer to what you are asking, so much depends on the condition of the original purchase and what you want the truck to be "when it grows up...". The minimum it will need is first to verify the condition and do whatever is needed to assure the safety to yourself, your passengers and the other people on the road. That includes brake system, steering system, suspension, lighting and safety harnesses, which can mean rebuilding to original condition by replacing any/all worn/damaged/nonfunctional parts to installing upgraded replacements. Next it needs to be mechanically sound and dependable which may mean finding one with servicable OEM or upgraded driveline (engine, tranny, rear axle) or installing your preferences, rewiring, rebuilt/repaired/upgraded cooling system and heater (AC optional but expensive and a lot of work), cleaned or replaced fuel tank and lines. Some sort of secure seating, replace any damaged/missing glass and weather stripping.
There is absolutely nothing wrong or unsafe about a totally restored truck (restored def.: rebuilt to original specifications as it came from the factory with or without small safety upgrades) Ford built them well back in the day, that's why so many are still available today. The most popular build style on this forum is resto-mod. (resto-mod def.: Having an original looking exterior with modern mechanicals underneath and convenience/comfort accessories). The next style in popularity is the hot rod. (hot rod def.: using the basic shell and modifying drivetrain and/or exterior bodywork for increased performance/power, and/or personal style) hot rod or sometimes called "darkside" build style typically involves major expertise and expense (chopped tops, hopped up engines, upgraded/modern type suspensions, air bag suspensions to adjust ride height, fancy paint jobs, interiors, etc.). There is another build style that is somewhat frowned on in this forum, Rat rods or sometimes call junk rods by the style's detractors, where a vehicle is created from a wide assortment of mostly cast off and miss-matched parts, and outrageous non automotive add ons without regards for appearance (unless the "Mad Max" or "hillbilly" look is something you admire???) or even safety. There are other forums where rat rodding is more encouraged/admired than here.

 

Ax those 3 posts you did in this thread are the best 3 thread responses I have ever read on FTE!