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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

STC fitting threw back plate.

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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 06:34 AM
  #16  
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Wow that sucks. Imo if the tube went far enough back too
crack the back plate our go thru it as you said. Get the branch tube. You may be able to bend it back but you wouldn't know if it has a crack until your all back together and running or attempting to run. How many miles on the truck? If your pulling branch tubes you could pop in a set of new lifters. I feel for you as an hour and a half or so job of replacing an stc fitting just turned into a lot more.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:41 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
If you haven't done it, I suggest you do it. I got a feeling I'm going to need a branch tube assembly too. If I got the numbers right in my head it will be a grand in parts. It sucks because I got transferred at work to a different department and I'm not going to be able to figure out the time frame to fix this along with the other crap I got going on. I know the wife isn't too happy cause she said sell it............that didn't make it any better either,nothing like getting kicked in the nads when your down.
Mine tried to pull that on me recently when I was trying to sort out the 6.0 shake I had (#2 injector and front left tire) and again when the radiator blew (end of June going into July) and I decided to do a major maintenance overhaul while I was waiting for the Mishimoto to come in. (brakes, pads, trans flush, rear diff, oil change, fuel filter change)

She said "you spend too much money on this truck...."

Knowing where she was going I said: "YOU STOP RIGHT THERE! "

Take care of your truck and get it back on the road. I'd much rather keep my $300 a month 6.0 than buy a $700+ a month 6.7 with a warranty that I can't work on and may cost me big money when it's out of warranty.

I agree, get the branch tubes as it's one of those "better safe than sorry" kind of things. Diesel Tech Ron and even Senior Master Tech recommend replacing the branch tube when the STC blows out like that.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 05:00 PM
  #18  
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I would say just the same that has already been said.
The lifters are a very good idea. I have a local guy here
that has a very good rep. He says that it the truck is over
200K miles if he is anywhere near the lifters they get changed.

That being said I'll toss one more at you. New style pushrods.
The thought being if we are right and they put less stress
on the linters that would be a good thing.

I'll call in a little bit. My number will now come up as unknown.
I had the ID services blocked do to a problem on this end.
Yep scammers call from a local # and when you call back they have
yours. It was Expedia or so they said this time.

Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #19  
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Ive done a few. Had 1 branch tube fail.
Bolt the fitting up to the branch tube then pull it back to start the pump bolts in the block. Ive reshaped a few this way.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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I'm still up in the air on where I'm going to do it.I don't want to tie up anyspace a my friends shop cause I can't get any time frame for days off from the job that pays the mortage. I may have to do it at home and pull the motor in the driveway cause the truck is too high. I got to think on this, or just say screw it and ship it to Anthony and write a big check. But he's the only one besides me that I want touching my truck
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #21  
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You dont pull the engine to replace the rear cover.
Pull the pump out, replace the fitting reinstall and air test it.
From there pull the trans, slide it back about a foot and replace the rear cover.
You need to be careful of the bed plate gaskit however.
Once the rear cover is replaced reassemble the top side, this is when you put the pump cover on... not before this.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:37 PM
  #22  
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That sounds like a good idea,how many hours, about
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:41 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
That sounds like a good idea,how many hours, about
For whom?
It can be done in 8 hours in a equipped shop with all the needed tools.
Iirc warranty is about 9 hours.
Count on 2 days of above avarage guy while drinking beer.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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Second option. Got a tig welder or some aluminum arc rod?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:48 PM
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Sorry to hear of your troubles Per4mance. I do not know much about that style 6.0 as mine is the '03 year. As for working on the engine in the truck, I use a motorcycle lift. I push my small roll around toolbox up there and still have room to walk around. It is the correct height flat but can be raised. Much easier on the back.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #26  
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Yep i have accesss to all the goodie to weld it up,it won't warp like the outboard motors and have to be trued ? If I can find one on E Bay it might be a better choice?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 08:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
Yep i have accesss to all the goodie to weld it up,it won't warp like the outboard motors and have to be trued ? If I can find one on E Bay it might be a better choice?
Ive never tried to weld on one, so can't awnser. Only a suggestion and thought
 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 02:04 AM
  #28  
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Cheezit,
Same cover on the E and F series?


Sean

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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 02:25 PM
  #29  
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Sorry for your troubles Bill! For $275 (AutoNation WBL shows them as "shippable") I don't think I would mess with welding it.

Part should be the same for all years and E / F series (3C3Z-6G091-A)
 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 04:46 PM
  #30  
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It is the same part.
 
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