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I did not intend to start an argument with this post.
Ah, No biggie, just a couple of passionate folks making the world go around ...
Originally Posted by eutecticpt
My truck is a turbo. The fitting on the line that goes to the tank on the drivers side does is not a "T" there is only on place to connect the line from the cap on the rear-most injector. How can I convert to the non-turbo configuration?
Personally, I would get one of these from a 7.3N/A, some build their own.
On the motor ...
Originally Posted by eutecticpt
Are the caps supposed to be tight after reconnecting the fuel line?
Subjective ... They will move, the only resistance is the o-rings, the injector line nut itself does not actually touch the caps.
Ensure they are fully seated.
These days they are made out of crap plastic at very high production speeds, this makes for very very poor plastic parts.
Dwell time in the mold after the plastic is injected improves the skin but takes time, time is money and they don't give a hoot about quality as long as they work when the leave the door!
Originally Posted by eutecticpt
Is in necessary to use the copper washers that came with the kit?
The copper washers are Injector seals, They go in before the injector, you didn't pull the injectors, so yes, they are un-used at this time ...
Originally Posted by eutecticpt
The first injector on the passenger side has what appears to be a riser fitting between the fuel line at the injector. The riser has a soft material on the side that screws onto the injector. Is the soft material a gasket of some sort?
That is an adapter for a timing light, it is un-used these days, it must remain there to maintain line length.
The plastic thing is just a shield to protect the surface where the timing light hooks up, it should be up even with the top of the diameter it fits.
Thanks Festus--If the injector is wet with fuel when it is removed, is it safe to say it is leaking? Also, is it necessary for the port on the cap to line up with the port on the injector?
I am going to try and use one of the three way caps on the rear-most injector on the drivers side and route the crossover under the turbo. Thanks for the help.
I made a "T" using brass fitting from the hardware store. I removed the original single-port return fitting and the T is not secured with any bracket. I plan on filling the fuel filter this afternoon and try starting the truck. Do I need to worry about bleeding air from the fuel system? Also, can I delete the fuel line from the first injector to the fuel filter and just plug the port on the fuel injector cap? Is there any advantage to this? One less point for potential air intrusion?
Also, can I delete the fuel line from the first injector to the fuel filter and just plug the port on the fuel injector cap? Is there any advantage to this? One less point for potential air intrusion?
Not in my opinion ... If it worked properly that way it would have came from the factory that way!
Hows the air that is constantly pumped into the filter going to get out ... Some will build up in the filter, some will go through the IP, Someplace you want NO AIR!
Nothing but headaches come from a improperly modified return system.
If you don't know, The return system is what brought Diesels to the masses because the design allows a diesel to be restarted WITHOUT BLEEDING the system!
Before the return system was invented, Diesels that ran out of fuel were a freaking ..... to get bled and running again!
The rule was DO NOT run them out of fuel PERIOD! I have seen operators fired for doing so!
Yes, If you have a weak IP, Cracking injector lines can speedup bleeding between IP and injectors. With a good IP, it only takes a couple compression strokes to bleed all the air out of the injector lines through the injector without cracking lines ...
I cannot count the times I have started a completely dry system from tank through injectors in less than 60 seconds ... Three 20 second start cycles!
WITHOUT BLEEDING as the system is designed.
Also, can I delete the fuel line from the first injector to the fuel filter and just plug the port on the fuel injector cap? Is there any advantage to this? One less point for potential air intrusion?
I believe that is the one that ford released a tsb about deleting.
I do not do it nor believe in it, it makes for a harder dry start and doesn't solve the issue ... Only an air tight return system solves the issue.
I have tried it both ways and many others, I am now a firm believer in an air tight 7.3N/A style setup.
EDIT:
A good way to punish test for drain back, park uphill ... On the flip side, park downhill if you have a leaky system and it helps prevent the drain back!
Got the truck running tonight but had a bad leak at one of the injectors. Realized that I cross-threaded one of the injectors--argh! What are the chances that the fuel injector nut is also messed up?
