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I have a driveway ornament in the form of a 1994 IDI Turbo. Over the past few weeks the truck has become progressively hard to start until it just won't go. There is plenty of fuel, I hear the glowplug relay cycling and the truck cranks fine--until the battery gets weak after about 15 -20 seconds of cranking. I went ahead and changed the lift pump--$24--cheap enough. I pulled one of the injector lines off and cranked the engine and noticed fuel pulsating from the injector line. The fuel filter is full and the fuel looks clear. Any thoughts on the next thing to check?
If your batteries are getting weak after 15-20 seconds of cranking, my guess would be that it is not cranking fast enough. Can you take a video of it cranking? would give a good idea if that could be the case or not. How old is your IP also? Just because you have fuel at the line with no resistance at the end (injector) doesn't mean it is popping the injector at much higher pressure levels. Have you tried ether? turn the key on, wait a minute or two for the glow plugs to cool off, give it a little shot (not much) and see what happens.
Thanks for the response. The batteries are getting old, but don't want to spend $220 on new ones right now. I have had the truck for about six months and don't have any maintenance records and for all I know the IP is original--maybe not because the truck is about to turn 215,000 miles. There are currently Autolite glow plugs in truck. I just ordered a set of motorcraft plugs for the truck and will change them out. One more question. The Wait to Start light is not working and I can hear the glow plug controller clicking for about 8 to10 seconds and then the clicking stops. Is that normal?
^^^^^^ It will at least solve the clicking GP relay / WTS light issue. You may still need newer/stronger batteries, but start (no pun intended) with the GP renewal.
So--I was able to remove five of the glow plugs last night. The three remaining will be a bit more challenging. While removing the wires from the glow plugs, I found that the plastic "boots" on the wires are degraded and basically just crumbled in my hand. Are replacement boots available? How would simple butt connectors work? I would think that a solid connection is crucial.
The boots are just insulation. Are the terminals still make strong tight connections to the terminals on the glow plugs? If so, I would just re-insulate them with heat shrink.
Well--I was able to change seven of the eight plugs. How the heck do you change the plug under the turbo? I see how possibly to get a socket on the plug, but how do you get the wire off and then reconnect the wire onto the new GP? I replaced the connectors on two GPs using blue bullet connectors. Is there a trick or tool to insure that the bullet is securely pressed on to the GP? An update on the no start--charged both batteries and plugged in the engine heater last night. The truck started this morning pretty easily. The "Wait to Start" light does not illuminate and I can hear the GP relay cycling. Could one bad GP prevent the "Wait to Start" light from illuminating?
Bypassed the GP controller with a momentary switch last night and now the relay doesn't click and the wait to start light illuminates when the switch is energized. Now I am in control of the GPs! Maybe my imagination, but the truck fired up easier this morning.
<p>to get the wire off/on the plug under the turbo i use needle nose pliers. and a wrench to take it out.</p><p>and even then that glow plug is a royal pain in the ***.</p><p>if it is starting fine with 7 glow plugs you can leave it as is.</p><p>with the momentary contact switch, only use about 10 seconds glow time and you should be fine. </p><p>under zero you can kick it up to 15 seconds.</p>
My 1994 IDI TD has developed a hard start condition. After powering up the glow plugs for about 10 seconds and try and start the truck, it fires up and then dies. After that the truck is very hard to start. The WTS light illuminates when I energize the momentary start switch and the water in fuel light illuminates when I crank the engine. GPs are only about 18 months old and I have bypassed the glow plug controller. Could it be bad fuel?
My 1994 IDI TD has developed a hard start condition. After powering up the glow plugs for about 10 seconds and try and start the truck, it fires up and then dies. After that the truck is very hard to start. The WTS light illuminates when I energize the momentary start switch and the water in fuel light illuminates when I crank the engine. GPs are only about 18 months old and I have bypassed the glow plug controller. Could it be bad fuel?
I don't have the water in fuel light, but if this problem occurred for me I would look at fuel delivery to the ip starting at the filter with a change out and bleed. If I had dual tanks I would make sure the selector valve was functioning before that. Probably a good opportunity too to do an atf fill of the new filter, run for 30 secs and let sit overnight or longer if possible. The cleaning properties of atf really help loosen varnish and @#£% in the pump and injectors.
Last edited by southern-old-bold; Jun 10, 2016 at 02:03 PM.
Reason: missed info
My 1994 IDI TD has developed a hard start condition. After powering up the glow plugs for about 10 seconds and try and start the truck, it fires up and then dies. After that the truck is very hard to start. The WTS light illuminates when I energize the momentary start switch and the water in fuel light illuminates when I crank the engine. GPs are only about 18 months old and I have bypassed the glow plug controller. Could it be bad fuel?
start, then die and crank forever before restarting is a classic sign of air intrusion from bad return line cap o-rings.
with a cold engine before you try to start it, remove the fuel filter and see if it is full or half empty.
if it is not full, you need to replace the return line cap o-rings.
water in fuel light coming on could be from water in the fuel, or from the wire being off the sensor and shorting out on the intake.