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I removed the fuel filter this morning and it was about half full of fuel. I bought a Flag M-73100 Pump and Injector kit from AccurateDiesel. The orings and caps for the injectors is pretty straight forward. I don't know where the other parts of the kit go. I have not been able to locate any diagrams for the pump. Does anyone have a link to a diagram of the orings for the pump?
i would not mess with the pump rite now. 99.99% of the time it is injector caps and o-rings that let the air in to drain the filter.
do the return caps and o-rings and see if that solves the problem. if it does, save the other parts for when they go.
When I got into the project, I noticed that one of the caps on each side has a three way cap, but no three way caps came with the cap? Also, is it necessary for the tee to be toward the injection pump?
the three way caps are used on turbo engines so you can put a crossover line up front away from the turbo. on non turbo engines you do not need two three way caps, and can use a two way cap on one of the rear injectors to cross over to the other side for fuel return to the tank.
the caps are usually still good and you can reuse your three way caps for the crossover.
I highly recommend the non Turbo layout ... Yes, Even on a Turbo truck.
It does not use the 3 way T caps ...
The non Turbo layout goes
From the IP down the left side (drivers side) to the brass T in the back ...
From the Filter head down the right side to the brass T in the back ...
The last hose on the right side that crosses over to the Brass T has to be routed very carefully under the Turbo so as to keep it away from the Turbo hot side ...
This layout prevents the right side (under the Turbo where it's hottest) from dead heading with little or no return fuel flow over the injector.
The non Turbo layout goes
From the IP down the left side (drivers side) to the brass T in the back ...
From the Filter head down the right side to the brass T in the back ...
The last hose on the right side that crosses over to the Brass T has to be routed very carefully under the Turbo so as to keep it away from the Turbo hot side ...
This layout prevents the right side (under the Turbo where it's hottest) from dead heading with little or no return fuel flow over the injector.
As an alternative layout, I basically run a reverse-non-turbo layout: Bringing the two banks forward to a tee, and at that point adding in the return from the IP, the return from the filter head(if it's not been deleted), and then from there I run a hose behind the AC compressor and over to the driver's fender well area, then down and back to meet up with the original return line.
I delete the original iron return line on top of the intake manifold; I consider it too hard to mess with tightening, and it keeps all the lines as far as possible from the turbo and hot rear of the engine.
I've not seen any issues with this; the rear injectors don't have any issues compared to the more forward ones, and the caps don't melt or anything due to "low flow".
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Speaking of which, it's actually impressive just how little heat is conducted through free air - I recently put a mild steel adapter on my turbo downpipe, to adapt my new S360 turbo to my Banks Sidewinder downpipe. After <200 miles, I found that the adapter was quite blue, which seems to indicate that it got up to 540-ish degrees. (Note: No wrap on this section of pipe)
At the same time, I had a flexible cheap PVC? boost pressure line running about 1/2" away from that same exhaust housing. No melting, no discoloration or anything.
So, as long as you can manage to keep lines 1/2" or more away from the turbo(1" would be better), you should be OK.
As an alternative layout, I basically run a reverse-non-turbo layout: Bringing the two banks forward to a tee, and at that point adding in the return from the IP, the return from the filter head(if it's not been deleted), and then from there I run a hose behind the AC compressor and over to the driver's fender well area, then down and back to meet up with the original return line.
I delete the original iron return line on top of the intake manifold; I consider it too hard to mess with tightening, and it keeps all the lines as far as possible from the turbo and hot rear of the engine.
I've not seen any issues with this; the rear injectors don't have any issues compared to the more forward ones, and the caps don't melt or anything due to "low flow".
-----
Speaking of which, it's actually impressive just how little heat is conducted through free air - I recently put a mild steel adapter on my turbo downpipe, to adapt my new S360 turbo to my Banks Sidewinder downpipe. After 200 miles, I found that the adapter was quite blue, which seems to indicate that it got up to 540-ish degrees. (Note: No wrap on this section of pipe)
At the same time, I had a flexible cheap PVC? boost pressure line running about 1/2" away from that same exhaust housing. No melting, no discoloration or anything.
So, as long as you can manage to keep lines 1/2" or more away from the turbo(1" would be better), you should be OK.
Very poor layout, you have little or no fuel running through/over your injectors, just what the injectors leak!
Air is insulation ... And one of the best at that!
Very poor layout, you have little or no fuel running through/over your injectors, just what the injectors leak!
And that's exactly my point. I don't believe it matters in the least.
The only thing that matters is that the injectors can leak fuel internally and have it go somewhere, to lubricate the injector bits. Cooling... wouldn't be enough anyway. And the injectors are in massive contact with a ~200F head anyway(due to the coolant running through it), which means that your injectors aren't going to be much colder or hotter than that.
Not to mention that the top half of the injector(from the injector line threads to halfway down the bore) is just a single solid piece of steel... so even if you /did/ cool the top of the injector, it wouldn't matter in the least.
You need to do some reading here on this site on the subject ... It's about return system life, not injector cooling!
The hot fuel leaking from the injectors distorts and deteriorates the return system!
I'm going to call BS.
The return caps should not distort or anything at the temps we have in that area(<300F).
If you are having issues, then the problem is cheap plastic being used, not fuel cooling.
I've had this system for 5 years now, no issues.
You want to stop return system leaks? Use lithium wheel bearing grease to install the (Viton)O-rings.
Before I learned that trick, I'd have to replace the O-rings any time I removed the caps, or I'd get leaks. Even then, it wouldn't always work, and I had to replace one or more again, etc.
After I started doing this, I have used the same set of O-rings for the last couple of years, despite removing and reinstalling my return line set over a dozen times. No leaks, period.
Anyway... I don't care what you do. I believe that my way is superior to the stock way simply for ease of access and keeping the lines away from the hot rear of the engine. I've run it this way for years, and have no intention of changing, as long as it works just fine.
I did not intend to start an argument with this post. My truck is a turbo. The fitting on the line that goes to the tank on the drivers side does is not a "T" there is only on place to connect the line from the cap on the rear-most injector. How can I convert to the non-turbo configuration? A few additional questions. Are the caps supposed to be tight after reconnecting the fuel line? The new caps rotate pretty easily after reconnecting the fuel lines. Is in necessary to use the copper washers that came with the kit? The first injector on the passenger side has what appears to be a riser fitting between the fuel line at the injector. The riser has a soft material on the side that screws onto the injector. Is the soft material a gasket of some sort?
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