Leaking Oil Drain Plug
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
From: Houma,Louisiana
Leaking Oil Drain Plug
So I had my oil changed at a shop. They showed me the oil plug that came out of the truck and it was stripped. They got a new one from Napa and installed it. I figured that was it. I drove the truck maybe 100 miles around town over the next few days before going to work. When I return after 3 weeks offshore I return to find a large black spot under the truck. Drive it the 5 miles home and it pours oil in the driveway. Turns out the new plug is stripped.
My question to the group is what route should i go? Replace the pan or make some type of repair?
My question to the group is what route should i go? Replace the pan or make some type of repair?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Bring it back to the shop that replaced the plug. They screwed it up in the first place, they should pay to repair the issue.
New plug may not be the correct size, or lack a sealing washer.
New plug may not be the correct size, or lack a sealing washer.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 4
From: NC
Mine leaks, 100% sure its a hairline crack . I plan on putting some PTFE on a fumoto valve, getting the threads bone dry, and screwing it in. Tightens up fine, just wont seal. Changing the pan means pulling the engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
All you really need is a "washer head" bolt of the right size/thread. And you should be able to drill it out and rethread to the next size fine-thread.
You will then need to use a PTFE washer on the bolt/plug, and everything should be good.
Your bolt needs to have a large flat head like the original plug so you have some sealing surface, and you won't need to worry about the threads leaking -- the only sealing surface is between the "washer" part of the bolt head and the pan.
You will then need to use a PTFE washer on the bolt/plug, and everything should be good.
Your bolt needs to have a large flat head like the original plug so you have some sealing surface, and you won't need to worry about the threads leaking -- the only sealing surface is between the "washer" part of the bolt head and the pan.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
From: Houma,Louisiana
The original plug is supposed to be a 1/2-20 plug. It had the M14-1.5 plug in it and it was not the right one. The threads are rolled on the pad side along with that plug. since it has been oversized once already that is why the pan replacement is the way I am going
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Versus just drilling out and re-threading the existing pan. If I recall correctly, the nut welded inside for those threads has a bit of extra space for drilling out.
Just trying to save you some significant hassle.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 13
Just tap it 9/16-18 get the washer included bolt and a sealing washer. If it doesn't work then you can go to all the work removing the pan. Don't drill anything just tap it you are ready very close to the needed drill size.
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