Pulls Right Which Isn't Right
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Pulls Right Which Isn't Right
This is really starting to irate me!
My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting. The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
So, WTH is going on here??
My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting. The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
So, WTH is going on here??
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
I agree. If the wheel is HOT from driving, then the brake is probably dragging. Fix that first... If the truck continues to "pull one way" then there is something wrong with the alignment, no matter what the guy says. If could be "within spec" but still at the outer limit. This assumes all tires are the same size and pressure.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Thanks guys!
The tire size & ride height & pretty much everything else is stock. Shocks were replaced a year or so ago with ones similar to stock.
Is there any particular reason calipers don't have some sort of return spring on them?
Aren't they likely to drag with all the brake dust that is created?
How can I fix a binding one?
Both calipers were replaced back when the truck was still under warranty.
I can provide the alignment specs on the print out I was given if it helps.
Could the pulling have anything to do with ball joints? Are the factory ones grease able?
The tire size & ride height & pretty much everything else is stock. Shocks were replaced a year or so ago with ones similar to stock.
Is there any particular reason calipers don't have some sort of return spring on them?
Aren't they likely to drag with all the brake dust that is created?
How can I fix a binding one?
Both calipers were replaced back when the truck was still under warranty.
I can provide the alignment specs on the print out I was given if it helps.
Could the pulling have anything to do with ball joints? Are the factory ones grease able?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
Do this next;
jack the RF off then ground a couple inches.
Take hold the bottom and the top.
Try to move the wheel bottom in and out.
It should not move.
If it does, look at the relationship between the disc and caliper for movement.
If there is movement between them, the bearing pack is shot and causing the disc to rub the pad hard under the weight of the truck.
This would surely cause what you experience.
Good luck.
jack the RF off then ground a couple inches.
Take hold the bottom and the top.
Try to move the wheel bottom in and out.
It should not move.
If it does, look at the relationship between the disc and caliper for movement.
If there is movement between them, the bearing pack is shot and causing the disc to rub the pad hard under the weight of the truck.
This would surely cause what you experience.
Good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
Alignment guy should have seen if ball joints or bearings were worn.... but should be checked AGAIN. Look at the brake pad holder / caliper and you will see it mounts on two sliding pins. You should be able to grab the caliper and push it in and pull it out until it contacts the disc. Without the disc in place, it will move 1/2 inch. The caliper only pushes on one side of the disc, and the caliper then slides over so both pads clamp on the disc. The "PINS" should be removed, wire brushed, and anti sieze added when the brakes are replaced.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
What The Hell Do I Need To Do To Remove The Rotor
Well I'm dug into the L/F brake issue and will be replacing the pads & rotors. But haven't been able to get the rotor off yet. I have the big thick FSM & oddly it says alot about 2WD rotor removal but very little about the 4WD procedure. I think there's a typo. Where it says 4x2 it should be 4x4.
Regardless, I need to get the rotor off. I of course have the caliper & brkt off. I've removed the 3 bolts on the inner side of the hub or knuckle(which ever it is). Do I need to remove the 36mm nut in the center? Am I going to need to remove & install the wheel studs into the new rotor? Whats the procedure for that? I saw a loner tool at Advanced Auto or Auto Zone which may help if that's necessary. This is the first time I've done a job this involved. My past years as a parts guy tell me removing the studs isn't necessary. But something isn't making sense to me with this.
Please help.
Regardless, I need to get the rotor off. I of course have the caliper & brkt off. I've removed the 3 bolts on the inner side of the hub or knuckle(which ever it is). Do I need to remove the 36mm nut in the center? Am I going to need to remove & install the wheel studs into the new rotor? Whats the procedure for that? I saw a loner tool at Advanced Auto or Auto Zone which may help if that's necessary. This is the first time I've done a job this involved. My past years as a parts guy tell me removing the studs isn't necessary. But something isn't making sense to me with this.
Please help.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
I'm hoping the reason it was dragging was due to all the corrosion on the back sides of the pads & that there was no lube on the clips they ride on.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
On 4x4, remove the caliper and tie it up out of the way.
Remove the caliper mount only.
Remove the disc.
That's it. Don't take anything else apart.
Replace with new disc.
Re install the caliper mount.
Use a piece of flat stock along with a large C clamp or a tool for the purpose and compress the caliper piston into it's bore until the rubber seal just begins to compress.
This gives you the extra width to get the new pads over the new disc and helps loosen the piston from crud internally.
When you do this, be awhere that brake fluid may spill out of the master cylinder reservoir because your forcing fluid back to that location as it has no other place to go.
Use common sense.
Good luck.
Remove the caliper mount only.
Remove the disc.
That's it. Don't take anything else apart.
Replace with new disc.
Re install the caliper mount.
Use a piece of flat stock along with a large C clamp or a tool for the purpose and compress the caliper piston into it's bore until the rubber seal just begins to compress.
This gives you the extra width to get the new pads over the new disc and helps loosen the piston from crud internally.
When you do this, be awhere that brake fluid may spill out of the master cylinder reservoir because your forcing fluid back to that location as it has no other place to go.
Use common sense.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Just saw a guy on YouTube use a brake pad instead of flat stock when compressing the caliper. Seems like a good idea.
I'm using an upside-down 5 gallon bucket for the caliper to rest on.
I'm using an upside-down 5 gallon bucket for the caliper to rest on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
The disc center hole is the way the disc is precision located. the stud holes are not used for that purpose.
Not having been off since it was new it corrodes in place.
After soaking with penetrant to get an initial bond break, heating with a torch
to expand the disc hole is the only other way to help break the bond.
You have to be careful not to heat so much so long that the bearing pack seals and grease are damaged.
The big hammer eventually will get it started.
Beat evenly around the outside of the disc so you don't bind it in it's hole.
Once your ready to put the new disc on, test fit.
If snug , rasp file a little out just enough the perceive it a little loser.
Be sure the spindle is clean and free of rust , then use some Never seize to help keep it from taking a bond anytime soon.
Don't get any on the new pads or disc.
Good luck.
Not having been off since it was new it corrodes in place.
After soaking with penetrant to get an initial bond break, heating with a torch
to expand the disc hole is the only other way to help break the bond.
You have to be careful not to heat so much so long that the bearing pack seals and grease are damaged.
The big hammer eventually will get it started.
Beat evenly around the outside of the disc so you don't bind it in it's hole.
Once your ready to put the new disc on, test fit.
If snug , rasp file a little out just enough the perceive it a little loser.
Be sure the spindle is clean and free of rust , then use some Never seize to help keep it from taking a bond anytime soon.
Don't get any on the new pads or disc.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Ok. Thanks for the helpful advice again, Bluegrass.
I see what you're saying. I'll be putting those 3 bolts back in with anti-seize on them that were a PIA to get out . I don't have a torch. So, I'll be beating it with my mini-sledge. Hopefully the truck doesn't fall off the jack stands from the impacts. lol.
Should I do anything with the bearings while I'm in there? The FSM says to do this odd procedure of tightening then loosening the spindle nut a few times when reinstalling. Does anyone actually do it that way?
I see what you're saying. I'll be putting those 3 bolts back in with anti-seize on them that were a PIA to get out . I don't have a torch. So, I'll be beating it with my mini-sledge. Hopefully the truck doesn't fall off the jack stands from the impacts. lol.
Should I do anything with the bearings while I'm in there? The FSM says to do this odd procedure of tightening then loosening the spindle nut a few times when reinstalling. Does anyone actually do it that way?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 29
From: Raleigh USA
Smack the rotor between the lug studs with a hammer as hard as you can. I use a 2lb ball peen and can get most rotors off with 2 or 3 hits. Be careful not to hit the studs. The bearings on a 4x4 are not repackable. Make sure your rubber brake lines to the calipers are not corroded where the metal section is crimped to the rubber, I have seen a few of those break.