Pulls Right Which Isn't Right
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
I was able to fix the threads with the Thread Restorer Set loaner tool from AutoZone. I just kept running the proper sized chase(?) over the oiled stud & now I can hand thread a lug nut on.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
How Screwed Am I Now????
I snapped off the lower mounting ear on the steering knuckle for the caliper bracket.
I started removing things to replace the rotor & pads on the R/S and found that rotor corroded on tighter than the L/S one which didn't seem possible. I was doing the bolt thru the caliper brkt mount trick(which worked great for the other side) and broke the lower bolt hole ear off and bent the heck out of the upped ear. And the rotor is still solidly on there.
Does the steering knuckle need to be replaced now? How difficult is it to do that?
I started removing things to replace the rotor & pads on the R/S and found that rotor corroded on tighter than the L/S one which didn't seem possible. I was doing the bolt thru the caliper brkt mount trick(which worked great for the other side) and broke the lower bolt hole ear off and bent the heck out of the upped ear. And the rotor is still solidly on there.
Does the steering knuckle need to be replaced now? How difficult is it to do that?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
probably replace instead of repair. The top of the knuckle has a ball joint and the bottom has a ball joint. You will need to remove the nuts and smack the knuckle to pop the tapered joint out of the knuckle. sometimes a pickle fork helps drive them apart. You will need to remove the big nut you have been talking about from the drive shaft and push the shaft inward and out of the hub. I would then look at the knuckle / hub / caliper and have it heated and pressed apart, or just go to the scrap yard and buy a replacement "assembly" and start over.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
click on the blue underlined words in the article to see a photo of disassembly.. Shows the knuckle removal.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
I'm in CT so I'm figuring a scrap yard one would probably be rusted about the same.
Auto Zone has loaner tools for ball joints/tie rods which should make it easier. Looks like the tie rod would need to be removed also.
Where might it be able to be heated & pressed? A machine shop?
Might the ear being welded back on & the other straightened be an option?
At this point I'm thinking a new knuckle will be needed. About $200 from Auto Zone. Either way I guess I should start removing it. I watched a YouTube video on doing it. I think I could handle it. What else could go wrong? In it they removed the complete half shaft from the truck and releasing the tension on the torsion bar. Is that really necessary?
Would pics of this mess help?
Auto Zone has loaner tools for ball joints/tie rods which should make it easier. Looks like the tie rod would need to be removed also.
Where might it be able to be heated & pressed? A machine shop?
Might the ear being welded back on & the other straightened be an option?
At this point I'm thinking a new knuckle will be needed. About $200 from Auto Zone. Either way I guess I should start removing it. I watched a YouTube video on doing it. I think I could handle it. What else could go wrong? In it they removed the complete half shaft from the truck and releasing the tension on the torsion bar. Is that really necessary?
Would pics of this mess help?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
click on the blue underlined words in the article to see a photo of disassembly.. Shows the knuckle removal.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html
Might be even better if he went into what to do when parts don't come apart. lol
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
or buy a new bearing / hub. I was thinking with the part off the truck, the disc could be heated HOTTER around the pilot area and possibly pushed off with a 12 ton press.... in a shop, yes..
Other wise if the hub has 150K miles on it, I would consider changing it out also. I bought a couple on e-bay for $75. Auto Zone probably wants $250.
I did not recommend "welding" the knuckle because I don't know you or your shops ability. With a good preheat and certified weld job, it could be done. You don't get that at the local backyard shop.
Other wise if the hub has 150K miles on it, I would consider changing it out also. I bought a couple on e-bay for $75. Auto Zone probably wants $250.
I did not recommend "welding" the knuckle because I don't know you or your shops ability. With a good preheat and certified weld job, it could be done. You don't get that at the local backyard shop.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
My truck has only 83k on it. Part of the problem is probably that it doesn't get driven enough.
Could all that heating damage the hub bearing/grease & ABS sensor?
Both AutoZone & Advance Auto have the hub for $122. I'm going to check ebay. You had sent me a link to one.
Do you think with the welding & straightening of the mounting points would leave them not as strong as they should be?
I don't have the ability or knowledge to weld. I'd be bringing it to a welder guy.
Could all that heating damage the hub bearing/grease & ABS sensor?
Both AutoZone & Advance Auto have the hub for $122. I'm going to check ebay. You had sent me a link to one.
Do you think with the welding & straightening of the mounting points would leave them not as strong as they should be?
I don't have the ability or knowledge to weld. I'd be bringing it to a welder guy.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,932
Likes: 181
I have found that a lot of the hubs on e-bay are the same quality as the ones at Auto Zone or other ..... Welding on the spindle would make it as strong as new IF YOU HAVE A QUALIFIED WELDER... If they guy knows how to stick two plates together and it looks OK, that's not good enough. He has to know something about materials , strength and preheat. This is a part of the steering suspension of a truck that runs down the road at 70 MPH... no second guessing !
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Thanks again, Steve. I was hoping to get your advice again.
It would be nice not to spend $100+ on a new knuckle. But along with the welding there is a significant amount of straightening of those mounting ears that would need to be done. And I'm not sure how it would be determined how much it needs to be bent back to make it right again since it would be off the truck. I wish I had a pic of it to post so you could see what I mean. So, at this point, it looks like I'll be getting a new one off ebay.
Hopefully that friggin rotor can be separated from the hub without damaging it or the ABS sensor. It'll be interesting to find out exactly why it wouldn't come off.
It would be nice not to spend $100+ on a new knuckle. But along with the welding there is a significant amount of straightening of those mounting ears that would need to be done. And I'm not sure how it would be determined how much it needs to be bent back to make it right again since it would be off the truck. I wish I had a pic of it to post so you could see what I mean. So, at this point, it looks like I'll be getting a new one off ebay.
Hopefully that friggin rotor can be separated from the hub without damaging it or the ABS sensor. It'll be interesting to find out exactly why it wouldn't come off.