Pulls Right Which Isn't Right
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Thanks again Steve.
They did seem to be sliding smoothly but since I was there I took them out & cleaned them up. I wire wheeled some rust of the head of them & rubbed the rest of them with never-dull so they're nice & smooth. I intend to lube them with Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)). Do you happen to know if it is ok to use that on other brake system parts? Such as the anti-rattle clips, piston boots, & the back of the pads? Also, I never seem to know how much lube is enough & tend to over do it. Would that cause problems here?
They did seem to be sliding smoothly but since I was there I took them out & cleaned them up. I wire wheeled some rust of the head of them & rubbed the rest of them with never-dull so they're nice & smooth. I intend to lube them with Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)). Do you happen to know if it is ok to use that on other brake system parts? Such as the anti-rattle clips, piston boots, & the back of the pads? Also, I never seem to know how much lube is enough & tend to over do it. Would that cause problems here?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
What will cause problems is using Brake Caliper GREASE on the slider pins and boots. A petroleum product will attack the rubber boots causing them to swell and lock the pins/calipers in place. (If you have used a petroleum product, you can remove the boots and pins and wash them thoroughly in dish detergent, rinse and dry.)
Use the Motorcraft Dielectric COMPOUND on the pins/boots.
You can use small dabs of the caliper GREASE on the ears of the pads where they contact the anchor plate rails so they can slide a little easier.
Use the Motorcraft Dielectric COMPOUND on the pins/boots.
You can use small dabs of the caliper GREASE on the ears of the pads where they contact the anchor plate rails so they can slide a little easier.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 15
I've been using SIL-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT for many years. I think the tube I bought years ago is turning out to be a lifetime supply!
Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant, Tube, 8 oz « AGS Company
Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant, Tube, 8 oz « AGS Company
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
Well...how is a wheel stud replaced? Just noticed that 3 threads at the tip of one are messed up. Apparently it got in the way of one of my hammer strikes.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
If its the outside 3 threads and the rest looks good... the old trick is to take a small grinder or file and just wipe off the bad area. The nut will go past that and the last 2-3 threads don't do anything to help.......
The stud is normally a press fit in the hub. You put something like a 1 inch socket on the back OVER the head of the stud, then use a C-clamp to push the stud out into the socket. you put the new stud in the hole and put the socket on the front and push the stud into the hub and it comes thru into the hollow socket........... may or may not be room to do this on the truck......... easier to grind off a couple threads.
The stud is normally a press fit in the hub. You put something like a 1 inch socket on the back OVER the head of the stud, then use a C-clamp to push the stud out into the socket. you put the new stud in the hole and put the socket on the front and push the stud into the hub and it comes thru into the hollow socket........... may or may not be room to do this on the truck......... easier to grind off a couple threads.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
To avoid the new rotor from becoming corroded on like the old one was, I'm considering putting a thin coating of anti-seize everywhere it contacts the spindle.
Ok or not ok to do?
Ok or not ok to do?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
More help needed...
These are the Motorcraft pads I bought 1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com
2 of the pads have a metal clip on them which acts as a wear indicator by making contact with the rotor. I need to know if that one is the inner or outer pad.
Also, is anyone familiar with these more expensive Motorcraft SuperDuty Brake Pads for F150's?
1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com
These are the Motorcraft pads I bought 1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com
2 of the pads have a metal clip on them which acts as a wear indicator by making contact with the rotor. I need to know if that one is the inner or outer pad.
Also, is anyone familiar with these more expensive Motorcraft SuperDuty Brake Pads for F150's?
1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
I normally put the indication on the side that has the caliper piston since it PUSHES into the disc........ I normally run a flapper wheel inside the center of the disc to get the hole a thousandth or so bigger ( or at least clean) and then put anti sieze on the bore and stud holes as you said. It will come off easier next time.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
Likes: 2
From: S.E.,CT.
flapper wheel ??
I normally put the indication on the side that has the caliper piston since it PUSHES into the disc........ I normally run a flapper wheel inside the center of the disc to get the hole a thousandth or so bigger ( or at least clean) and then put anti sieze on the bore and stud holes as you said. It will come off easier next time.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis