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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:20 PM
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No start

hey guys so my truck died a few weeks ago on the highway had the hpop ipr valve and screen replace ran awesome for 2 weeks, shut it off ran into the store and it wouldn't start gave it a couple hours finally fired, started good the next 5 times go to start it the other day no start again, tried again 30 seconds later and starts trucks a 2006 with 226000km throwing no codes, I'm ready to go trade it off on a new one any ideas where to start?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by built tough
hey guys so my truck died a few weeks ago on the highway had the hpop ipr valve and screen replace ran awesome for 2 weeks, shut it off ran into the store and it wouldn't start gave it a couple hours finally fired, started good the next 5 times go to start it the other day no start again, tried again 30 seconds later and starts trucks a 2006 with 226000km throwing no codes, I'm ready to go trade it off on a new one any ideas where to start?
Have you updated the standpipes and dummy plugs? Did the new hpop come with the updated STC fitting?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang_309
Have you updated the standpipes and dummy plugs? Did the new hpop come with the updated STC fitting?
No that's the only update I haven't done yet and yes it came with the stc fitting. At cold start while cranking my ficm is reading 48v icpV at 2.5 ICP psi 1590 ipw ms 1.74 which is leading me to believe it may not be a problem with the oil system?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:25 AM
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Whats your fuel pressure? You may need the blue spring upgrade. The ipr should be at 14.4 koeo and not go to more than 85% while cranking

shem
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by wetbiker
Whats your fuel pressure? You may need the blue spring upgrade. The ipr should be at 14.4 koeo and not go to more than 85% while cranking

shem
I do have the blue spring upgrade I'll have to find someone that can test the fuel pressure since I'm not able to
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 07:04 AM
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Doesn't sound like a HPO issue to me either (with the numbers you posted).

Are you getting cam/crank sync and FICM sync when you have the no-starts?
Codes?
rpms when cranking (again when it doesn't start)?
System voltage when cranking?
FICM M-power, L-Power, C-Power when cranking (cold and hot engine). Also when idling?
V-reference voltage?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:10 AM
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Possibly a FICM connector. I had the exact same symptoms after changing my IPR. My FICM connector locking tabs were broke, causing them not to make a good electrical connections. Ended up replacing the connectors.

You can reach in and under the FICM to try to reseat them without removing anything. Try it and listen for a "click".

My scanguage was showing no sync, but I wasn't throwing any codes.

My connector were rotten and brittle.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Doesn't sound like a HPO issue to me either (with the numbers you posted).

Are you getting cam/crank sync and FICM sync when you have the no-starts?
Codes?
rpms when cranking (again when it doesn't start)?
System voltage when cranking?
FICM M-power, L-Power, C-Power when cranking (cold and hot engine). Also when idling?
V-reference voltage?
I'm away at work right now so guess I'll have to Check that according to my edge cts the ficm voltage isn't dropping below 47.5 but I should check to see how accurate that is. As far as the rpm goes I don't recall the number but was getting a good amount of rpm while cranking. Battery voltage dips to about 10.6 while cranking then shoots back up when stopped.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:55 PM
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10.6 is a little on the low side, but should be OK.

Even though you see good FICM voltages, you can still have a FICM problem.

Check out the sync values.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by built tough
I'm away at work right now so guess I'll have to Check that according to my edge cts the ficm voltage isn't dropping below 47.5 but I should check to see how accurate that is. As far as the rpm goes I don't recall the number but was getting a good amount of rpm while cranking. Battery voltage dips to about 10.6 while cranking then shoots back up when stopped.
Also check for codes as previously mentioned, the CTS is a pretty good code reader and you can have codes without a check engine light.
 
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