oil leak
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
The pigtail has to be cut and connected to the harness. Most kits will come with butt connectors but I like to solder and heat shrink any wire connections.
If you do use the connectors, tape them up well when you're done.
Also match up the plugs and wires and swap one wire at a time.
If you do use the connectors, tape them up well when you're done.
Also match up the plugs and wires and swap one wire at a time.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 3
From: SW Ohio
The pigtail has to be cut and connected to the harness. Most kits will come with butt connectors but I like to solder and heat shrink any wire connections.
If you do use the connectors, tape them up well when you're done.
Also match up the plugs and wires and swap one wire at a time.
If you do use the connectors, tape them up well when you're done.
Also match up the plugs and wires and swap one wire at a time.
What he said!
It is possible that your drain on the turbo has a hole in it. If that was the case I would think you would have a bigger issue when running.
I had an ICP go bad and had oil in that area. It wasn't has much as what you are experiencing. I also had the issue that it ran fine, turned it off, started it and it bucked like a bronco!
If there is an IH dealer near you the harness repair kit is cheaper through them. I am trying to find the part # and can not locate it.
I like to solder the connections and not use butt connectors. Ford recommends to use the connectors.
1 wire at a time or go ahead and mark each one before cutting.
Patience on this repair is a needed item.
I went at it from above. Move the FICM and Degas bottle. I did't want to mess with working over my head on my back.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 970
Likes: 1
From: Marietta, GA
thanks for the info, i have a IH dealer not to far from me, so that would be cool.
mine still runs really good. i have just been checking the oil every time before a start it, with a gallon of T6 in the toolbox lol
looks like i wont really have time to dig into it until Tuesday though.
mine still runs really good. i have just been checking the oil every time before a start it, with a gallon of T6 in the toolbox lol
looks like i wont really have time to dig into it until Tuesday though.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 3
From: SW Ohio
Here is a write up I did...
After talking with Julie last night and PMing with Cheezit a few times and crawling under the truck to have a look. I decided I wanted to try and go at this issue from the top only since I wanted to replace the ICP pigtail. I spent a few hours surfing the internet for examples of how folks went at it from the top.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
Link to thread.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-bucking.html
After talking with Julie last night and PMing with Cheezit a few times and crawling under the truck to have a look. I decided I wanted to try and go at this issue from the top only since I wanted to replace the ICP pigtail. I spent a few hours surfing the internet for examples of how folks went at it from the top.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
Link to thread.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-bucking.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,950
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
Here is a write up I did...
After talking with Julie last night and PMing with Cheezit a few times and crawling under the truck to have a look. I decided I wanted to try and go at this issue from the top only since I wanted to replace the ICP pigtail. I spent a few hours surfing the internet for examples of how folks went at it from the top.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
Link to thread.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-bucking.html
After talking with Julie last night and PMing with Cheezit a few times and crawling under the truck to have a look. I decided I wanted to try and go at this issue from the top only since I wanted to replace the ICP pigtail. I spent a few hours surfing the internet for examples of how folks went at it from the top.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
Link to thread.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-bucking.html
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 970
Likes: 1
From: Marietta, GA
Ok guys, it ended up being the ICP sensor.
I replaced it and the pug tail as recommended.
No more oil leak for me!
However, after I got it put back together and went of a test drive to get some lunch it gave me 2 codes.
A cylinder 5 and a cylinder 1 contribution balance codes.
I'm hoping it was just because it was working out some air.
What do you guys think?
Injectors 1 3 5 7 & 2 are new Ford rremans from less than 5000 miles ago.
I replaced it and the pug tail as recommended.
No more oil leak for me!
However, after I got it put back together and went of a test drive to get some lunch it gave me 2 codes.
A cylinder 5 and a cylinder 1 contribution balance codes.
I'm hoping it was just because it was working out some air.
What do you guys think?
Injectors 1 3 5 7 & 2 are new Ford rremans from less than 5000 miles ago.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 970
Likes: 1
From: Marietta, GA
I cleared the codes after about 50 miles of driving today and they have not come back.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
If there's no symptoms and the codes don't come back I'd run it. Probably were never erased.
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