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Homemade rail buggy

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Old 08-04-2015, 09:48 PM
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Homemade rail buggy

Hey guys, typically I use this site for the pre power stroke diesel, but I have just about finished my diesel build and now I have an extra 4 wheel drive truck frame that I want to turn into a rail buggy for the family, as my family size is larger than the typical 4 seater rail buggy I've seen. The frame is from a 96 f-250 cab and a half and plenty long to make it like a 6+ seater buggy. Just wanting to see if anyone had any ideas to get me started. Anything helps out. It is much appreciated thank you
 
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:42 PM
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Ck out my gallery, I have 73 Bronco rail buggy that is a blast. A 6 seater is easy with all the truck you have to work with....Are you wanting to make it road legal?
 
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:07 AM
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Yes I do want to make it road legal, but also functional. I want to use it as a cool conversation piece at a gas pump and also tear up some trails at the same time. getting ready to check your gallery out.
 
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:50 PM
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Here you go.
 
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:28 AM
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If you go forward with this please post on your progress! This seems like a cool project!

As for ideas, the F-250 has the "beloved" leaf spring TTB front end. It works OK if you're trying to keep this on a budget, but swapping to a solid axle would be the "typical" upgrade, especially for a rock crawler. And swapping to coilovers could give you the best of both worlds, travel and low unsprung weight for go-fast and travel and a reasonably strong drive axle for rocks (a desert-race prerunner style TTB is one of my pipe dreams).

Other than that, how are you expecting to use it? Rocks? Mud? Desert? Scenic trails? And what engine / trans do you have? Those all would make big differences in what I'd want to do to it.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:05 AM
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I would like to keep it on a budget. I do like the idea of a coil over conversion. The motor in it was a 5.8 and I will probably find another to go back in and swap distributers, and also make it carbureted to keep from having to many wires. I want to make as little electronic as possible to keep from messing anything up when I want to get it dirty. Also I would like to get a 5-speed tranny for it. I have a rear end in my diesel truck that is 4:10 and I would do a front a rear end swap from those to my rail buggy and put the 3:55's in my diesel as its only a 4 speed and could use that gear set to slow down my rpms at hwy speed on my daily driver truck. I appreciate the ideas and pics.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:09 AM
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also I will post pics as soon as I start the project. Just working on clearing out the garage now for space. Quick question though. Is it easier to build the body of the rail buggy separate and then mount it to the frame or build it all on the frame from the start. Thx again guys. If anyone wants to send more pics please do. I am trying to decide my rail design. I do believe that I will want to put a small bed that I will build out of rails and diamond plate to kinda keep the truck feel.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:17 AM
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I would build it as one, that way you can incorporate the roll cage to be a place to hang body panels, and tie it all into the frame.

Keep receipts for material if you have to show them to your DMV for a "specialty built vehicle" title. Some states are like that.

I would look at your state DMV regs as far as what it takes to get a home made dune buggy like vehicle legal to be on the road.

That way you know you minimums to get it road worthy.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:20 AM
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also i only plan to use this as a trail rider. Not really rock crawling or desert pre-runner. I would like to run it through mud, creeks, trails. I have a 15 acre wood lot and it has a creek running through it with a lot of valleys so I thought it would be a fun 4x4 play toy.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:24 AM
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I live in Indiana, and thanks for your advice. I believe that it must have head lights, windshield, safety belts, and rear brake and turn signal lights. But I will definatly check into it as I have never built my own rail buggy. Thank you for the pics by the way.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 88/90f-250IDI
I would like to keep it on a budget. I do like the idea of a coil over conversion. The motor in it was a 5.8 and I will probably find another to go back in and swap distributers, and also make it carbureted to keep from having to many wires. I want to make as little electronic as possible to keep from messing anything up when I want to get it dirty. Also I would like to get a 5-speed tranny for it. I have a rear end in my diesel truck that is 4:10 and I would do a front a rear end swap from those to my rail buggy and put the 3:55's in my diesel as its only a 4 speed and could use that gear set to slow down my rpms at hwy speed on my daily driver truck. I appreciate the ideas and pics.
Originally Posted by 88/90f-250IDI
also i only plan to use this as a trail rider. Not really rock crawling or desert pre-runner. I would like to run it through mud, creeks, trails. I have a 15 acre wood lot and it has a creek running through it with a lot of valleys so I thought it would be a fun 4x4 play toy.
Then I'd stick with the stock leaf spring TTB. It's not good, but it's usually good enough, and you can always swap to a solid axle later if you want to upgrade.

I'd suggest staying with a 3/4 or 1 ton 5 speed (ZF5 or an NV4500 if you don't mind the non-Ford aspect). Stay away from the M5OD. It shifts easier, but doesn't have as low a 1st gear and might not hold up as well.

4.10 gears and the ~5:1 of the 5 speed's 1st gear, along with the ~2.6:1 stock transfer case will give you a decent crawl ratio, as long as you aren't looking at more serious rock crawling. Plus the axle and t.case gears will let you get enough wheel speed for mud, so those are good (and inexpensive) choices.

The one thing about the t.case is I'm not a big fan of slip yokes. If you damage a rear driveshaft you can't just take it out and drive home in front wheel drive without figuring out how to not puke out all your t.case lube. I don't think there are slip yoke eliminators for 3/4 ton Ford t.cases (13-56 or 44-07), so either you're stuck with the slip yoke or you probably need to find a different t.case. On a budget I'd stick with the slip yoke and hope I don't ever need to drop the driveshaft.

Personally I'd stick with the EFI and computer-controlled ignition. It's really not that complicated (or hard to protect) and it works better than what most people can set up a carb to do. But it's your truck.
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:18 PM
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If it is a just a back woods buggy have at it, just remember to at least have a sturdy built roll cage for the family.

Here is my other bronco and another project buggy with a 79 F250 frame, a stockman class II race car chassis (craigslist for 100 bucks) I just have to uncobble the front lift thanks to the PO.

And here is another idea for you.
 
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:04 AM
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Very, Very helpful thank you. Now about the ignition system, would it be best protected under the dash or is there really no big issue keeping it mounted relative to where they are located on the trucks fire wall. Should be starting this project off in just a few weeks once the garage is cleaned and I find some rails. Once I find out how to post pics I will def put them on and keep things posted. Any other ideas are much appreciated. Thx again.
 
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:35 AM
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Just out of harm and waters way.
 
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