Pink wire?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2014
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Pink wire?
The pink wire that runs from the switch through the firewall to a plug that splits off and goes to the sending units (oil and water) is smoking when I leave the key on between the plug and the ignition switch. The voltage at the ignition switch is 12v at the plug and the coil it shows .9v. I understand that there is a ballast resistor in this wire which is the wire itself? I just don't know why it's smoking and the best fix for it. I'm trying to hook up a pertronix igniter.
My understanding is that I need to find a 12v source for pertronix with the ignition on and not take the ballast resister out of service.
And I can do that but that doesn't fix the smoking pink wire.
Any help would be much appreciated.
My understanding is that I need to find a 12v source for pertronix with the ignition on and not take the ballast resister out of service.
And I can do that but that doesn't fix the smoking pink wire.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
What type or brand of coil installed right now?
Can bypass the ballast wire completely if using a suitable coil. This is in fact recommended. The ignitor "likes" a full 12 volts. The ballast resistor is going to get HOT because that's what it does. But if someone has hung a lot of extra current hogs on that circuit, that would do it. Ignition probably draws around 10 amps, or thereabouts.
Can bypass the ballast wire completely if using a suitable coil. This is in fact recommended. The ignitor "likes" a full 12 volts. The ballast resistor is going to get HOT because that's what it does. But if someone has hung a lot of extra current hogs on that circuit, that would do it. Ignition probably draws around 10 amps, or thereabouts.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
What type or brand of coil installed right now?
Can bypass the ballast wire completely if using a suitable coil. This is in fact recommended. The ignitor "likes" a full 12 volts. The ballast resistor is going to get HOT because that's what it does. But if someone has hung a lot of extra current hogs on that circuit, that would do it. Ignition probably draws around 10 amps, or thereabouts.
Can bypass the ballast wire completely if using a suitable coil. This is in fact recommended. The ignitor "likes" a full 12 volts. The ballast resistor is going to get HOT because that's what it does. But if someone has hung a lot of extra current hogs on that circuit, that would do it. Ignition probably draws around 10 amps, or thereabouts.
It currently has the coil for a conventional points system.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The resistor wire ultimately reduces the current through the points, making them last longer. Some coils are going to have "Use With External Resistor" or somesuch printed on them. You can measure the primary winding to be sure if uncertain if it's unsuitable. Remember, a coil is dissipating a lot of current, they get hot and are filled with oil for this reason. But, if they get too hot there will likely be coil innards spewed all around the engine bay. Any coil designed for 12 volts continuous will work excellent. I use the Flamethrower, but just about any of the high output coils are OK.
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