410 vs 411
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410 vs 411
Hi folks,
I have a dually F350 with a 410 & a SRW F350 with a 411. Based on power (fuel ecomomy irrelevant) which would you recommend for heavier towing?
I have a dually F350 with a 410 & a SRW F350 with a 411. Based on power (fuel ecomomy irrelevant) which would you recommend for heavier towing?
Last edited by JackErnie; Jul 25, 2015 at 12:50 AM. Reason: typo!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
they will both be equal if the engine and trans are the same in both trucks. the 4.10 and 4.11 gears are the same thing. the dually will be better for heavy towing if you use a fifth wheel trailer because it will be more stable. otherwise they are the same truck.
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Thanks for the replies. I'm working on a few projects, and lacking knowledge on most of them (gotta learn sooner or later, right?).
I have a cab n chassis open dually diff with 355 ratio. I'm wondering if I can remove the guts from it and install the posi 410 or the posi 411 into it. I also have an F250 4WD with posi 410's, and I want to put 355's into it. Can I just swap out the 410's and install the 355's, or is it easier to remove/replace the entire front & rear diffs? I guess I wouldn't need to worry about adjusting backlash, etc if I changed the complete units(?).
I have a cab n chassis open dually diff with 355 ratio. I'm wondering if I can remove the guts from it and install the posi 410 or the posi 411 into it. I also have an F250 4WD with posi 410's, and I want to put 355's into it. Can I just swap out the 410's and install the 355's, or is it easier to remove/replace the entire front & rear diffs? I guess I wouldn't need to worry about adjusting backlash, etc if I changed the complete units(?).
Lead Driver
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From: Roseville, MN
Swapping the entire carrier is likely a LITTLE easier than just swapping the gears because at least you have a starting point. But you still need to set up the gears, and it's still an if-you-have-to-ask-you-can't type of job. Setting up gears needs to be done RIGHT or you'll wipe them out pretty quickly. It's not rocket science, but it does require a few tools you probably wouldn't otherwise have, knowing what you are doing and a WHOLE lot of patience when you have to take the gears back out again, adjust shims again, because you didn't guess right this time either and the patterns not quite right yet. There's a reason shops can charge $500 - $1000 to set up gears.
And by the way, "posi" is specifically an Eaton limited slip diff, and the name was almost exclusively used by GM. Limited slip is the generic term, and Ford called it Trac Loc.
And by the way, "posi" is specifically an Eaton limited slip diff, and the name was almost exclusively used by GM. Limited slip is the generic term, and Ford called it Trac Loc.
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Thanks for the information. I'm willing to pay somebody to swap the gears...for what the projects are costing me, another $1,000 isn't a big deal. May as well get it done right by someone who knows what they're doing.
Fleet Owner
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Both of those trucks should have a Sterling rear axle assuming they are OBS trucks in scope for this forum. That means they both have 4.10 gears.
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i ain't rite
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i think the difference between the 4.10 and 4.11 designation is simply a 2 wheel drive/4 wheel drive thing.
if you have a 4X4 you have 4.10 rear gear and a 4.09 front. if you have a 2 wheel drive you have a 4.11 rear ratio. but it really don't matter because the difference is so miniscule you will never see it.
both trucks should have a sterling 10.25 rear axle, so a carrier and pinion gear swap is easy to do for someone with the proper tools.
if you have a 4X4 you have 4.10 rear gear and a 4.09 front. if you have a 2 wheel drive you have a 4.11 rear ratio. but it really don't matter because the difference is so miniscule you will never see it.
both trucks should have a sterling 10.25 rear axle, so a carrier and pinion gear swap is easy to do for someone with the proper tools.
Junior User
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From: Simi Valley
I don't know if the numeric differences are real or not
Sticking with pinion gear tooth-counts that are in the range that most of us would think of as a good compromise for multi-tooth engagement for smoothness and tooth thickness for strength, it is possible to get each of these ratios. Using a 9-tooth pinion and 37-tooth ring gives 4.11:1 and a 10-tooth pinion with a 41-tooth ring gives 4.10:1.
It is likely that Ford went with one combo for the back, and Dana with the other for the front. There are some out there who argue that this is to keep the back from pushing the front around corners, but the difference is so miniscule, that I doubt that entered into the decision at all. We are talking about the front end out-running the rear-end by approximately the wheelbase once per mile. I really suspect that it was the smoothness/strength tradeoffs that drove these types of decisions.
It is also entirely possible that they are both the same tooth-counts and the numbers were tweaked for marketing purposes.
It is likely that Ford went with one combo for the back, and Dana with the other for the front. There are some out there who argue that this is to keep the back from pushing the front around corners, but the difference is so miniscule, that I doubt that entered into the decision at all. We are talking about the front end out-running the rear-end by approximately the wheelbase once per mile. I really suspect that it was the smoothness/strength tradeoffs that drove these types of decisions.
It is also entirely possible that they are both the same tooth-counts and the numbers were tweaked for marketing purposes.
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